The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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New Release: Sotto la Luna GARDENIA by Tauer Perfumes

WHAT I SMELL:  Sotto la Luna GARDENIA’s opening is green and slightly sharp along with being big and bold with a semi-vintage vibe.  The initial opening is met quickly with a gourmand sweetness like almond extrait that’s layered under a spiced rose.  And soon enough a creaminess develops that helps to radiate this incredible floral warmth as the notes begin to bounce around like a symphony of full-bodied petals.  How can you not love a big, bold floral like this?  Sotto la Luna GARDENIA is sweet with its gourmand almond and vanilla, but there’s a depth that keeps it from becoming saccharine as the sandalwood and tonka keep it leveled.  As Sotto la Luna GARDENIA continues to develop, it deepens and the florals project off the skin like they’re about to burst.  The sweetness then begins to dissipate to be taken over by a more earthy component, like the heavy flowers are being plucked from the ground.  At this point, the fragrance is heady, intoxicating and dreamy.  After some more time, the florals retreat and the vanilla comes to the forefront and it’s creamy, lush and it swirls off the skin.  After about an hour, Sotto la Luna GARDENIA begins to settle and calm.  At this point the drydown is DIVINE, as it’s smooth, warm, lightly almond sugared and lightly powdered.  In the end Sotto la Luna GARDENIA is incredibly comforting; so much so that it makes me want to purr like a kitten!

From the Tauer Perfumes website:

Sotto la Luna®, inspired by white flowers blooming under the moon.

Head Notes:  The spicy freshness of gardenia budding under a bright moon.

Heart Notes: The green floral delicacy of gardenia in full bloom with a gentle rose.

Body Notes:  The powdery mossiness of ripe gardenia with a hint of jasmine, in a bed of sandalwood, tonka and vanilla.

Riding a Crescent MoonWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Riding a Crescent Moon 

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SOTTO LA LUNA GARDENIA: creamy, luscious, narcotic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SOTTO LA LUNA GARDENIA:  Is it possible that there aren’t any reviews of this yet?

BOTTOM LINE:  If you are looking for a straight up Gardenia fragrance, Sotto la Luna GARDENIA is not for you.  However, if you are looking for a deeply delicious rounded floral that makes your head dizzy with intoxication, this IS for you (and of course, for me!)

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Andy Tauer
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $145 for 50ml (Available via pre-order through Twisted Lily and Indigo Perfumery with shipping in early September)


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A Valentine Rose: Une Rose Chypree by Tauer Perfumes

Une Rose ChypreeWHAT I SMELL:  Une Rose Chypree opens with bergamot and lemon with a quick move to orange, then back to a “Lemon Pledge” smell.   It’s rather cool, like a spring breeze going through an orange grove.  After a couple of minutes, it warms and the fragrance begins to harmonize.  What I mean by that is that the notes, rather than acting in a singular fashion, start blending together.  After around 5 minutes, I begin to get hints of rose, but it’s so muted that it feels like it could be a combination of any floral.  After around 10 minutes or so, the rose begins to bloom, and it’s mixed with a deep and almost caramel base.  It actually feels a bit gourmand at this point, almost like it would be perfect to add as a mix to sweeten a cup of coffee.  But as soon as I have those thoughts, it then turns slightly lighter and the fragrance becomes a bit dryer with a layer of oak moss and powder. It’s at this point that the fragrance reminds me a bit of Amouage’s Fate Woman, which is a good thing since I love Fate Woman so much.  After a short while, Une Rose Chypree moves out of the Fate Woman stage and the fragrance moves from the light to a deeper and richer stage.  I find the fragrance glorious at this point.  It feels vintage and extremely well blended.  This is a rose that doesn’t say rose as much as it says warm floral. Wait….here, I thought the progression of the fragrance was complete, instead it gets a little spicier but in the end, the spice is tamed by the vanilla for a nice creamy (but yet dusty with the oakmoss) finish.

From the Tauer Perfumes website:

Head Notes:  Soft bay and hot cinnamon complemented by bergamot, lemon peel and clementine.

Heart Notes:  A rich rose chord with Bulgarian rose oil and rose absolute, and Bourbon geranium.

Body Notes:  Dark and resinous labdanum, oak moss, patchouli, vetiver and vanilla.

No my mother was not Lady Bird Johnson...but you get the point.

No, my mother was not Lady Bird Johnson…but you get the point.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  My mother all glammed out in 1965 to include the white gloves.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE UNE ROSE CHYPREE:   substantial, beautiful, proper

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT UNE ROSE CHYPREE:  Smellythoughts, Kafkasesque, Nathan Branch

BOTTOM LINE:  I think of this as a rose for those who don’t want their rose scents to scream “ROSE.”  It’s muted, contained, proper and pretty without being girly.  This is my kind of Valentine rose!

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Andy Tauer
  • Classification: Feminine, but fine for a man.
  • Expense:  $140 for 30ml EdP


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PHI – une rose de Kandahar by Tauer Perfumes

PHIFlaconWHAT I SMELL: PHI goes on with a rather flattened apricot with tinges of cinnamon and almond.  It’s kind of a muted sweetness in that when you smell it, it seems layered with the cinnamon hovering on top.  At this point, I’m thinking PHI is nice (nice = just OK), rather personal and relatively close to the skin, and more apricot than rose which I think is a bit strange.  Then at about the 10 to 15 minute mark, the rose begins to bloom.  And bloom it does.  It’s like the rose suddenly opens its petals and unleashes its glorious fragrance.  I don’t think I have ever experienced a rose fragrance that literally unfolds on my skin that way PHI does and I love it.  The rose is rounded and deep, and to me more masculine than feminine and rather gourmand.  But wait, we’re not done yet, after some more time, the rose becomes creamy.  Still further, PHI reveals its patchouli, making the fragrance a bit sweeter and more heady as its mixed with vanilla and amber gris.  Hours later, add in some tonka for a bit of a growl that helps to take the edge off of the sweetness.  In the end PHI ends up big, but not loud.  This rose is no wallflower, but she’s demure enough to be a bit coy.

From Tauer Perfumes:

HEAD NOTES: Phi starts with a rich fruity line of apricot. An all natural apricot extract with its surprising richness enchants and blends into a cinnamon line and hints of bitter almond, softened by bergamot essential oil.

HEART NOTES: These spices lead over to voluptuous roses in the fragrance heart: Extremely rare rose essential oil with its unique scent of spices, plums and flower petals blends into rose absolute from Bulgaria and hints of Bourbon geranium. The rose petals melt on the skin into a dark tobacco fond, built around an amazing absolute of dried tobacco leaves.

BODY NOTES: The animalic, leathery and woody tobacco opens the ground for a generously dosed layer of patchouli in the base of Phi. Here, woody and gourmand notes melt into hints of animalic lines. Vetiver, vanilla and tonka add richness and brilliance. A generous dose of exclusive musk and amber gris round the body of the fragrance and encircle the roses.

rose in a boxWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A rose inside a box.  As soon as you open the box, the beautiful aroma of the rose is unleashed as a wonderful fragrant present.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PHI – UNE ROSE DE KANDAHAR: complex, rich, journeyed

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PHI –  UNE ROSE DE KANDAHAR:  I Scent You a Day 

BOTTOM LINE:  PHI is one of Tauer Perfumes “Collectible” perfumes which means that product availability is tied specifically to access to the raw materials and as such, PHI is not guaranteed to be available at all times.  And note that at present, PHI can only be purchased exclusively from the Tauer Perfumes website.  So, if you want to experience this blooming rose, you may only have a limited time to do so.  Pre-orders are currently being taken for shipment sometime in mid-November.  That’s perfect timing for making this a Christmas rose!

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Nose:  Andy Tauer
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $141 for 50ml EdP, exclusively available from the Tauer Perfumes website