4 bones | The Scented Hound

December 16, 2013
by The Scented Hound 29 Comments

Nuit de Noel Parfum Extrait by Caron

Twas the night before Christmas and all through the house, not a creature was stirring except for the eBay mouse. The mouse saw that a good deal was found, he had to make a purchase especially one so sound. A few days later a package appeared and the mouse found that his purchase was not to be feared. The mouse was so happy with this new scent, that there was no doubt in his mind that his money was well spent.

WHAT I SMELL: Nuit de Noel opens with a surge of dry oak moss with hints of florals rising out of the from the mossy base. It doesn’t take long before a spicy presence makes itself known. But I hate to use the word “spicy” because I think you instantly think of something heavy and dominating. But it’s not the case here as it’s just this a layer of warmth, which is like putting on a fur-lined glove on a cold winters day. I wish I could say that I could distinguish the florals in the fragrance, but they are blended so wonderfully that nothing sticks out. After some time, the oak moss dissipates and you’re left with this wonderfully creamy floral haze of a fragrance. Nuit de Noel is pretty, feminine and from another era. I love it.

From the Caron website:

In 1922, after the trauma of the First World War, Europe is seized by a frenzy of celebration and exotic escapism. As a testament ot the crazy years, CARON launches NUIT DE NOEL.

NUIT DE NOEL, whose name along is evocative of a magical, fairytale evening, this day continues to spawn a series of iconic limited editions. Pure design theatrically inspired by the roaring twenties, an opaque black glass bottle, encircled with an “urchin” style gold band conjures up all the mystery of a bewitching Christmas Night.

Notes from Fragrantica:

Top notes are ylang-ylang, tincture of rose and jasmine; middle notes are sandalwood and oak moss; base notes are musk and amber.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: I can’t say that Nuit de Noel reminds me of Christmas. I’m not sure what it reminds me of except that is feels classic and timeless. But now that I have this as part of my collection, I’m going to make it my new tradition for wearing during the holiday season and specifically on Christmas Eve from this year forward.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE NUIT DE NOEL: proper, classic, beautiful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NUIT DE NOEL: Perfume Shrine, Bois de Jasmin, The Fragrant Man

BOTTOM LINE: This is one of those successful blind buys so I can’t speak for the EdT version of the fragrance, but have heard mixed things about it. I could see where if this was thinned out, that it might not be the same deep and haunting floral as the parfum extrait is. I could easily see my mother wearing this as she was getting ready for a party circa 1965. To me, that makes this a warm fuzzy of a fragrance. I think the mouse did an excellent job of finding this rather perfect holiday fragrance!

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $230 for 28ml Parfum Extrait (current formula)

December 10, 2013
by The Scented Hound 26 Comments

Topaze Imperiale by Krigler

WHAT I SMELL: Topaze Imperiale opens with large blast of astringent alcohol, which then leads to this almost sour-smelling pine (kind of like dirty socks). Thankfully, that little spell soon moves into a warm spice that seems a bit nutty and smells brownish to me (yes, don’t ask me why, but it makes me think “brown”). After around five minutes, a little oud makes an appearance. It’s lightly chewy and again, moves out-of-the-way quickly for the sandalwood to take its place along with hints of vetiver. It’s smooth with streaks of sharpness that make it a bit lighter. Soon again there’s another change; this time a dry wood that comes into play. It’s a wood that seems to have been aged with some smoke and incense. After 20 minutes, the fragrance becomes very dry, highlighted with just a faint top layer of rose. Where before I could only think that this could be worn by a man, with the inclusion of the rose, I now think it of this as very unisex. All I can say is that Topaze Imperiale is classic and classy…and it lasts for a very long time.

From the Krigler website:

A rich mélange, grounded in a seductive Amber base, Topaze Imperiale evokes the undeniable allure of the precious stone. Intriguing top notes of Vetiver, Musk and Sandalwood lead to an addictive heart of Vanilla, Neroli and Oud before leading to the magnetic base that is accented by notes of Amber, Galbanum, Rose and Mandarin.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: This reminds me so much of my beloved Amouage Fate Woman, but this is less powdery and contains more of a burnt wood effect which makes this more masculine. It’s like its Amouage Fate Woman’s big brother.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE TOPAZE IMPERIALE: smoked, eternal, confident

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TOPAZE IMPERIALE: I Am the Makeup Junkie

BOTTOM LINE: Thanks to the wonderful Daisy from coolcookstyle, who purchased this precious jewel at Sniffapalooza and gave me a sample. Topaze Imperiale is classic, with an incredible amount of subtleness. This is a keeper and I’m thinking that maybe it’s my turn for a full bottle??!!!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $245 for 50ml EdP from the Krigler website

November 18, 2013
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

Herod by Parfums de Marly

WHAT I SMELL: Herod opens with a mere second of sweet cherry pipe tobacco then quickly moves into a layer of cinnamon and sugar. We used to put sugar and cinnamon on warm buttered toast as a child and it kind of smells like that. Then after a few minutes more. the fragrance gets drier and more woody. Still yet, a warmed rum note sits in play, but its not heavy and thick but instead is more creamy and contained. From everything that I am smelling, I would kind of expect this to be big and loud, but so far, it’s holding back which is a very pleasant surprise. At around the ten minute mark, the tobacco note begins to come back. It’s nice and mellow and kind of cherry sweet, but it’s a muted sweet. At 15 minutes, I’m still waiting for a bang, but it never seems to come. And in the end, Herod stays in this very controlled state of lovely lightly vanilla’d sweetened woody tobacco bliss that dries with age.

Herod notes from the Parfums de Marly website:

Head notes: cinnamon, pepperwood

Heart notes: osmanthus, tobacco leaves, frankincense, ciste

Base Notes: vanilla pods, woody accord (cedar wood, vetiver, patchouli, ISO E Super), cypriol, musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Walking by the library of a very old and established men’s club and getting a whiff of the fine tobacco mixed with the old wooden paneling and floors.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE HEROD: restrained, comfortable, assured

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HEROD: Chemist in a Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: Herod is what I think a good Tom Ford should smell like. Classic, classy, restrained and not over the top. This was my first testing of a Parfums de Marly fragrance. If this is typical of their other offerings, I need to sample more!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Woody Spicy
Nose: Olivier Pescheux
Classification: Unisex – leans a bit masculine
Expense: $275 for 125ml EdT