4 bones | The Scented Hound

May 21, 2014
by The Scented Hound 23 Comments

Bandit by Robert Piguet

WHAT I SMELL: Bandit opens up with rush of galbanum; it’s green and almost sparkling in its intensity, but at the same time rather animalic and dirty which seems like a contradiction. But soon, Bandit starts to elicit its floral side with a some gorgeous ylang ylang and jasmine sitting on what seems to be a layer of cigarette smoke that is layered on top of the green notes. After around the five-minute mark a light spice combines with the floral and hints of leather start to peak through. Soon enough the oakmoss starts to make itself known as the dryness sits at the base while the other notes morph above it. However, after some more development the oakmoss reveals an extra sharpness that when smelled it wants to collapse the inside of your nostrils, but that sharpness soon moves to a more dusty and powdery essence; all awhile still sitting on top are the lightly leathered florals that are rather pretty in more of a masculine way. In the end you’re left with a dusty and dreamy lightly leathered floral.

I find that Bandit seems to transform itself at different times when I wear it. Sometimes it’s more floral and pretty, other times it morphs quickly into the dryer chypre and light leather. Either way I like it because it’s unique and different and I believe, pretty unmistakable as a perfume.

From the Robert Piguet website:

Provocative and sultry, this chypre fragrance is an intense blend of exotic leather, wood, spice and floral notes including neroli, orange, ylang ylang, jasmine, tuberose, vetiver, oakmoss, patchouli and musk.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Bandit’s not quite the tough and wild gal that I had heard about and was expecting. Instead, I think she’s much more of a “Pussycat Bandit!”

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BANDIT: dry, semi-tough, dusty

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BANDIT: Olfactoria’s Travels, Perfume Shrine, Perfume-Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE: My review is based on the Parfum Extrait version and on my box is a sticker that states:

“Certification

This is the original formula for Bandit created by this company with Robert Piguet for the introduction of the perfume in 1944

Errol G.W.Stafford, President, Givaudan Fragrances Corporation”

So I guess this version is about as good as you can ever get to the real thing. But I have to admit that if I want a real dirty girl, I’ll stick with my Gres Cabochard. However, don’t get me wrong, I love this pussycat of a rebel.

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Chypre Floral
Nose: Germaine Cellier
Classification: Feminine, but can easily be worn by a man
Expense: Varies depending on the concentration. Review based on the parfum extrait.

May 15, 2014
by The Scented Hound 14 Comments

Bergamote Boisee by Au Pays de la Fleur d’Orangers

WHAT I SMELL: Bergamote Boisee opens with a refreshing citrus and cedar which is incredibly similar to the new Hermes Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche which I just reviewed, except that Bergamote Boisee seems likes its edged with a sugary element that makes it feel like its surrounded by shimmering diamonds that are tinged with sunshine. That may be the honey note that I’m experiencing; and if so, it’s like honey that has been hardened and sugared which keeps it lighter rather than what we typically envision honey as thick and syrupy. After around 10 minutes or so, the sugared element makes way for the patchouli which retains a slightly sweetened edge to the woody base. Every time I lift my wrist to smell Bergamote Boisee, I think to myself, “this makes me happy,” and I like that feeling. Bergamote Boisee doesn’t morph or change much, but it’s basically this wonderfully uplifting slightly floral woody scent that is easy and enjoyable to wear!

Notes: Grapefruit, Bergamot, White Flowers, Cistus, Cedar, Oakmoss, Musk, Honey, Patchouli

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: happiness and contentment

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BERGAMOTE BOISEE: effortless, likable, agreeable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BERGAMOTE BOISEE: CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: This is the first sample that I pulled from the Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger’s Collection les Inédits and what a pleasant surprise. I grabbed this sample first as I thought that a fragrance highlighting bergamot would make for a nice summer fragrance. What I wasn’t expecting is that the opening would be so close to Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche. Where the Hermes left me with a slightly soured citrus that was pleasant enough, Bergamote Boisee left me with a sweeter and happier alternative that makes me want to skip down road with a smile on my face. Good job Au Pays de la Fleur d’Orangers!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Citrus Aromatic
Nose: Jean-Claude Gigodot
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $125 for 100ml EdP

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary

May 7, 2014
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

En Avion by Caron

WHAT I SMELL: En Avion opens with a spiced Neroli that feels like it’s covered in a light wax. It’s not too orange, and it feels slightly weighted with a light incense and an inner warmth. En Avion isn’t a fragrance that morphs and changes, but rather it holds its own by daring you not to like it’s subtle but somewhat detached beauty. However, let me counter that after about 1.5 hours, En Avion becomes the beauty I crave as it develops into this incredibly creamy and wonderfully smooth floral composition with just the right amount of spice. I would also say that it’s a girly fragrance for non -girly girls as it feels semi-fresh and floral without being obviously pretty even though it is. En Avion is one of those fragrances that I love to wear to bed only to awake with a lightly spiced carnation that hugs the skin.

From the Caron website:

In 1919, to mark the dawn of women’s liberation, Caron made the bold move of dedicating a deliberately provocative fragrance to the beautiful androgynous women, nonchalantly holding their long ivory and mother-of-pearl cigarette-holders.

A subtly ambiguous fragrance, which takes the leathery top notes normally associated with men’s fragrance, and combines them with an infinitely feminine floral bouquet.

En Avion Notes: neroli, spicy orange accord, jasmime, opoponax

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Girls who don’t give a damn!

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE EN AVION: tempered, worldly, non-judgmental

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EN AVION: SmellyBlog, Perfume-Smellin Things, The Black Narcissus

BOTTOM LINE: En Avion keeps calling me back and I seem to be wearing it a lot as of recently. This review is based on the current version of the parfum extrait, but I would love to get my hands on some vintage as I have the feeling that there might be a slightly darker edge that is missing from the current version. My love for Caron just keeps growing!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Classification: Feminine, but can be worn by a man.
Expense: $100 for 7.5ml parfum extrait