4 bones | The Scented Hound

January 12, 2015
by The Scented Hound 69 Comments

Caron N’Aimez Que Moi Review and/or How to Break a New Year’s Resolution in Under a Week and 3rd Year Anniversary Draw

Well, it was bound to happen; the fact that I was going to break one of my resolutions for the new year. What I didn’t know that it was going to happen so quickly. On my January 5, post “Goodbye 2014, Hello 2015” I posted the following resolution: Only buy it if I ABSOLUTELY love it. Probably like many of you, I am known to peruse the online offerings of eBay looking at the various fragrant goodies that are listed…and hoping for that incredible deal. Well, a post caught my eye advertising a travel spray of Caron’s Aimez-Moi for $49. If you have ever seen these little jewels of a travel spray, they are 20ml in size and are designed to hold the Caron urned parfum extraits. Typically what these coffrets sell for is a bit over $200 which is a pretty good deal for 20ml of Caron extrait. However, I questioned this posting, but immediately thought that the seller (who said it was from an estate sale) didn’t realize that what he was selling was not Aimez-Moi, but instead was N’Aimez Que Moi (by name alone this could be an easy mistake). Aimez Moi is an oriental floral and is primarily found as an Eau de Toilette and it doesn’t come in parfum concentration which means is doesn’t come from an urn. But N’Aimez Que Moi, a rose based chypre floral does. So I took a chance and purchased the bottle for $49 and upon first sniff, I knew I had made the right deduction!

The lovely little jewel of a Caron travel spray!

WHAT I SMELL: N’Aimez Que Moi (“love no one but me”) opens with this big enveloping and sharp metallic rose. Like Caron’s Or et Noir, the metallic edge is biting and you wonder how this could ever turn into anything pleasant. But after a few minutes the metallic edge is met with a puff of powdered dust, which helps to soften that harsh opening. The rose, tinged with violet and lilac is voluminous and rather stiff and proper. True to when it was created, it feels like a perfume from 1916. Lying underneath the rose is a woody vetiver that is met with a light amber. Even though the perfume is big, there’s something rather tender and heartfelt about it. After 20 minutes or so, a creamy sandalwood comes in, bringing passion into the perfume, but a passion without lustfulness. And further on, the oakmoss pulls some of the creaminess out of the perfume and renders a satined finish to the composition. Most Caron parfum extraits require patience for them to achieve their “state of grace.” N’Aimez Que Moi is no exception and when it does settle down after around the hour mark, this creamy, powdery and radiant rose becomes a restrained heaven on earth.

N’Aimez Que Moi Notes: lilac, rose, violet, iris, vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, vanilla, amber, musk, oakmoss

From the Caron website:

The First World War was raging, young women yearned for their loved ones who had gone to the Front.

N’Aimez Que Moi was given by young soldiers to their sweethearts before they left. It was a pledge of faithfulness, so they could renew their love vows every day until their men returned.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The creative and beautiful women’s hats from the early 20th Century.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE N’AIMEZ QUE MOI : proper, creamy, nostalgic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT N’AIMEZ QUE MOI : CaFleureBon, The Black Narcissus, Bois de Jasmin

BOTTOM LINE: The Caron signature Mousse de Saxe is prominent in N’Aimez Que Moi which is a good thing. As most of you know by now, I love my Caron and this is close to love but is more of a like. But to find this gem for such a steal doesn’t make me feel one ounce of guilt in breaking my perfume New Year’s resolution. Maybe this great buy is just a sign of the fantastic things that are going to occur over the new year!

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Chypre Floral
Nose: Ernest Daltroff
Classification: Feminine

It’s hard to believe that I have been at this blogging/review adventure for 3 years now. What started as a fun way to make sense of a fascination of fragrance has turned out to be an amazing experience. I’ve met some fantastic people, explored some incredible perfumes and opened up doors that I didn’t know existed. It’s’ been fun. And since this is an anniversary post and since we have to have presents at an anniversary party, I am giving away a 50ml bottle of Lady Caron Eau de Parfum. In other words, it’s an all Caron post! Unfortunately, because of shipping issues, I can’t include anyone who doesn’t have a US address. To enter, all you have to do is post a comment on what your favorite Caron perfume is or what your favorite rose perfume is and why. How simple is that? The draw will close on Thursday, January 15 at 6pm EST and the winner will be picked via random.org and will be posted on Friday, January 16th so keep your eyes peeled for the announcement. Good luck to all!

November 24, 2014
by The Scented Hound 9 Comments

A Bergdorf Goodman Exclusive from Roja Parfums: Bergdorf

Since 1901, Bergdorf Goodman has been providing the utmost in quality, service and luxury to New York City on the corner of 5th Avenue and 58th Street. To celebrate this New York landmark, Master Perfumer Roja Dove was asked to create two exclusive perfumes that embody this legendary institution. Back in September, I reviewed Goodman’s, Roja Dove’s creation named for the Bergdorf Goodman men’s store. And now, Roja Dove has launched Goodman’s female counterpart, Bergdorf. Together, they were both created to personify Bergdorf Goodman, the pinnacle of style, service and inspiration for over a century.

WHAT I SMELL: Bergdorf’s opening is comprised of airy florals which dance around a bright bergamot. The florals are lightly sugared and candied making the opening so incredibly bright and cheerful that it feels like you’re running through a summer field of delicate wild flowers in a warm and sunny afternoon. The florals are hard to distinguish as they’re flawlessly blended, but the violet pops out as a cheery leader of the bunch. The fragrance is grounded by a hazy base of sandalwood which warms the fragrance as it moves from the shiny and carefree opening, to more of a refined, graceful and full-bodied floral that is wrapped around the edges with pink pepper. After around 15 minutes, Bergdorf turns into a ball gown. The fragrance dances, moves and twirls under a shimmering light. It’s pretty, lush and full of gaiety. As more time passes, the fragrance quiets as if the dancing slows and the party retreats to quieter and contained refinement. The florals then become deeper and they’re met with this lush and comforting warmth that is very secure in its majestic self. As beauty is not always what it seems, there is just a bit of dirty (I think it’s the castoreum) that brings a bit of realness to the florals as if to say, “all that glitters is not gold.” My favorite part of the fragrance arrives after around an hour when Bergdorf’s becomes smooth as golden silk covering the windows to the garden outside, which at this point, the now lightly creamy florals are hauntingly and beautifully restrained.

Bergdorf Notes:

Top – Bergamot

Heart – May Flower, Orange Blossom, Heliotrope, Rose, Jasmine, Gardenia, Tuberose, Violet, Pink Pepper

Base – Patchouli, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Storax, Oakmoss, Vanilla, Benzoin, Musk, Frankincense, Castoreum

“Bergdorf Goodman, in my mind, has always embodied the refinement, glamour, and polish that is the very best of Manhattan.

With Bergdorf, I wanted to create an incredibly feminine scent that was unapologetically refined, elegant and sensual. A rich bouquet, with notes of Gardenia and May Flower, nestling on a base of Oakmoss and Vanilla”.

Roja Dove, Master Perfumer

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The life of Marie Antoinette, starting with her carefree youth as an Archduchess of Austria through her infamous and larger than life reign as Queen of France. It’s charming innocence in the beginning and grand, refined and strikingly beautiful throughout the end even when her world became oh so real.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BERGDORF: refined, graceful, stately

BOTTOM LINE: The problem with reviewing a Roja Parfum creation is that the development is so seamless and pulling apart notes is next to impossible. But what a great problem to have. It’s just testament to the talent of Roja Dove. I have to admit that at first, I was going to give Bergdorf’s a rating of 4 bones, but each time I wear this, my love grows stronger. So in the end, I have to up the ante. Bergdorf is a legendary perfume for a legendary store.

For those of you lucky to in be in NYC on Thursday December 4th, Roja Dove will be appearing at Bergdorf Goodman’s from 5 to 6pm. This is your opportunity to have Roja Dove himself, sign your exclusive bottles of Bergdorf and Goodman’s!

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Roja Dove
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $545 for 50ml parfum, exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman via Roja Parfums’ Bergdorf Goodman Representative, Tom Crutchfield, 212-872-2768.

Sample courtesy of Bergdorf Goodman.

November 20, 2014
by The Scented Hound 5 Comments

Eau de Patou by Jean Patou

WHAT I SMELL: Eau de Patou opens with this airy, fizzy, bubbling citrus, it’s so sparkling that its like dancing bubbles when you put your nose up to a glass of champagne. The bergamot and citrus combination is very much alive and joyous and full of bright energy which can’t help but make you smile. After a bit, the lively opening levels off and the citrus mellows as a floral melody highlighted by lavender brings the fragrance to more of a hazy hued of radiance. As, it dries down, a peppered and powdered finish adds just the right amount of mystery to make this perfume something very much out of the ordinary. For a fragrance without a huge amount of progression there is something incredibly rapturous about Eau de Patou, so much so, that I find it extremely sensual and sexy.

From the Jean Patou website:

EAU DE PATOU – A crisp and vibrant scent that epitomizes carefree days and relaxation, EAU DE PATOU has a lightness of touch and a subtle freshness unparalleled in the JEAN PATOU archive. Created originally in 1976 as a unisex fragrance EAU DE PATOU is a genuine expression of freedom and style that lasts throughout the day. A light tonic with fruity notes that sparkle with accords of bergamot, Sicilian Citrus, Guinea Orange and Sweet Lime mixed with Pepper Lavender and Orange Flower. This Eau de Toilette is light and fresh yet it is undeniably sophisticated and unmistakably JEAN PATOU.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A young Robert Redford; clean-cut, handsome and incredibly sexy.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE EAU DE PATOU: classic, sophisticated, unassuming sexiness

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EAU DE PATOU: Bois de Jasmin

BOTTOM LINE: Eau de Patou was my one purchase at Sniffapalooza this past Fall. It was immediate love and all the other perfumes were tossed aside once I smelled this. I don’t believe that Eau de Patou is groundbreaking, nor revolutionary. Instead, it’s classical with a peppered twist that speaks directly to my inner self. Who doesn’t love a perfume that makes them feel sexy?

Jean Patou is re-releasing some of their classic fragrances from the past in their Collection Heritage. Eau de Patou (originally released in 1976), along with Patou Pour Homme (1980) and Chaldee (1927) were the first three to be released and others will be forthcoming. I love this concept as a vintage perfume lover and I can’t wait to be introduced to the others in the line! You can find more about their Collection Heritage on the Jean Patou website.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Citrus Aromatic
Nose: Thomas Fontaine
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $245 for 100ml Eau de Toilette