The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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New Release: Hiram Green Dilettante

DilettanteWHAT I SMELL:  My first impression of Dilettante begins with a light earthy soil note mixed with a minty soapiness resting on top.  Quickly, the earthy moves towards a green tinted orange blossom that at first is rather linear and flattened, but as it progresses becomes puffed liked a cloud with just the lightest of sweetness.  The perfume at this point has a very carefree bounce about it.  Dilettante is seemingly happy, at the same time it feels like its holding a secret and it’s not going to let you know why it’s in such a good mood, but there’s a reason for it…it’s just not telling!  Soon a bit of mentholated tuberose comes to join the orange, but there’s only just a little to add just the right amount of texture and spice.  The perfume then begins to deepen and expand.  What was so much sun and fun now becomes contemplative.  Here the perfume rests its feet under the late afternoon sun with a warm embrace of orange blossom met with an ambered hue and a buttery honeyed finish.

From the Hiram Green website:

It is the sun shining on the rain and the rain falling on the sunshine…

Frances Hodgson Burnett

Inspired by such simple pleasures as a stroll through a luscious garden after a rain shower, Hiram Green’s latest perfume, Dilettante, is an enchanted and light-hearted celebration of summer.

Based on a triptych of orange flower, petitgrain and essential oil of orange, Dilettante is an all-natural fruity and floral eau de parfum that is fresh and sweet throughout.

Still Life with Orange Chair

Still Life with Orange Chair – Anne Redpath

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Orange Blossom comfort.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DILETTANTE: relaxing, reassuring, at-peace

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DILETTANTE: Kafkaesque, CaFleureBon, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: Hiram Green does it again.  The fact that he doesn’t rush the creation process with numerous and frequent releases is apparent as his perfumes are consistently well blended and full of depth.  Dilettante is the perfect antidote for those hot, hazy quiet days of summer.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Nose: Hiram Green
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $165 for 50 ml eau de parfum


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New Release: L’Atessa by Masque Milano

L'Attesa MasqueWHAT I SMELL:  L’Attesa opens with a flattened bergamot with a slightly soured neroli that feels waxy, slightly yeasty and thickened like a styrofoam cushion.  After a short time, a faint iris begins to appear, floating in a thin layer under the rest of the perfume.  Soon the iris begins to grow and expand as it takes center stage.  This is a warmed iris and a rather creamy one at that.  The iris is soon met with a melding of other florals and the perfume starts to feel as if it’s a warmed scarf wrapped around the neck.  The perfume radiates, but it’s very subdued and incredibly comforting.  After around 10 minutes, a peppered suede wraps itself over the florals.  It’s smooth and sensual and as it continues to develop the creaminess moves to a powder and the perfume pulls out all moisture.  At this time, there’s  a lightly sweetened powdered lipstick edge to the perfume which I really like.  Eventually, the perfume settles in this powdered projection over a smooth and hazy slightly soured sandalwood.

From the Masque Milano website:

Act III Scene One

All is set for the rendezvous.

The soft lights seem to fondle the wrinkled sound of the old vinyl disc, and play hide-and-seek in the warm embrace of the jazz singer’s voice. The wide french-window is opened on the terrace. Outside, only the cicadas shrill drowning and the warm summer breeze. On the tea-table, a nosegay of freshly plucked flowers, flooding the room with a cocktail of smells and a bright colour palette. You uncork a champagne bottle and fill the two flutes. The unmistakable flavour of yeast hovers in the air. You settle into the couch, to enjoy this moment, and take a good look around – every single detail is simply perfect. You then close your eyes, breathe deeply, listen to the sound of her steps on the stairs. Can’t help smiling. You wish these moments would never end. There comes a knock on the door.

Head notes:  Italian Bergamot, Moroccan Neroli, Champagne accord

Heart notes:  Italian Iris abs., Italian Iris Root Butter, French Iris Root Butter, Tuberose abs., Ylang Ylang Madagascar

Base notes:  Sandalwood Mysore, Oakmoss, Leather accord

Lipizzan-Stallion-ShowWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A beautiful, graceful and majestic Lippizan Stallion.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’ATTESA: dramatic, unique, passionate

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’ATTESA:  Kafkaesque, Megan in Sainte Maxime, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: L’Attesa unfolds in he most beautiful manner.  It’s exquisite in its blending of the warmed iris and florals.   My one wish is that it would have remained in the middle state of the creamy florals for the remainder of the perfume.  However, that doesn’t distract from the perfume which is wonderfully different and unique.  Also, kudos to Masque Milano for their new bottles which easily match the perfume in terms of beauty.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose: Luca Maffei
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $165 for 35 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Masque Milano.  Opinion my own.


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La Manufacture Cologne Rare

La_manufacture_Cologne_rare

WHAT I SMELL:  Cologne Rare initially shines with a fresh citrus and bright bergamot opening.  But there’s a little surprise with the addition of a lightly herbal and sharpened green note. In all it’s like a sun filled herbal garden surrounded by several lemon and lime trees.  The freshness and sparkle from the opening starts to warm on the skin and there’s a light sugared tartness that adds just the modern uniqueness to this rather traditional scent.  As the cologne continues to develop, a sweetened patchouli that feels topped with lavender, pulsates off the skin.  In a short while, the patchouli becomes the centerpiece, but the woodiness of the note seems to be wrapped around a citrus tinged vetiver.  And just when you thought the perfume had found its resting place, it instead continues to deepen like a golden elixir.  This is one nice cologne.

From the La Manufacture website:

A breath of bergamot and basil

Under the intense sun, one seeks out the scarce shade beneath the dungeon’s stone vault. You can sprinkle yourself with a spirited freshness.

Bergamot collides with basil, peel meets leaf. Notes full of character cross steel in an exchange of green… The green tartness of rhubarb yields to the somber green of patchouli and vetiver, giving rise to full-bodied base notes. A breath of coolness lingers, weaving among heightened wood notes.

“I chose bergamot from Italy for its lavender and pepper undertones. The basil from Egypt, with its singular anise note, makes the transition from citrus to green heart. The green is darkened by a smoky-leather note specific to vetiver from Haiti.

Carla Chabert, perfumer

Italy - Berengo Gardin (7)WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A stroll through the sun warmed Italian countryside.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE COLOGNE RARE:  comforting, easy, delightful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT COLOGNE RARE:  No additional reviews were found.

BOTTOM LINE: Cologne Rare is the perfect antidote for the heat of the summer.  It’s an uncomplicated, yet modern, version of a classic citrus cologne with a tangy herbal edge.  It’s bright, sunny, easy to wear and it can’t help but put you in a good mood.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Citrus Aromatic
  • Nose: Carla Chabert
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 100 ml cologne