3 bones | The Scented Hound

August 9, 2013
by The Scented Hound 21 Comments

Derby by Guerlain

About a year ago I smelled Derby at Bergdorf Goodman on paper and really liked it. However, Derby comes in this very unattractive wood bottle and that bothered me. Then I found out that it had previously come in the iconic bee bottle, but that had been discontinued in favor of the current bland boxy bottle. So of course I had to obsess about how to get my hands on a bee bottle. After searching around, including calling multiple Guerlain stores and reps, I came to the conclusion that I was not going to find my Derby bee bottle. So I finally gave up and moved on to my next perfume obsession.

Last month when I was in Chicago, I stopped by the Michigan Avenue Saks store where I asked the sales associate if they had any samples of Derby. Of course, I was given the “are you really asking me this” look and was told no. After wooing her with some charm, she managed to go to find a small decant bottle and she provided me with a 5ml decant of Derby which was more than I had expected. Note to sales associates: you’re not dispensing gold, just perfume.

WHAT I SMELL: Derby opens with bergamot and wonderful oakmoss (no wait, that’s carnation intended to mimic oakmoss) with a twist of lemon. It’s slightly sparkling and a bit powdery and dry. After a few minutes, Derby becomes a little more spicy… but it’s still fresh and clean. After that, Derby stays clean, but some wood is added to the spice. Supposedly there is leather there, but I have no idea where it is and figured that the cow must have run out of the door. I wish I could add more, but that’s really where Derby left me. It’s pleasant and pretty subdued and I found it to be a safe scent for men who don’t want to smell “out there.”

Derby Notes from Fragrantica:

Top notes are bergamot and orange; middle notes are spices, carnation and exotic woods; base notes are leather, birch, patchouli and woody notes

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Perfect for jeans, a white shirt and a blazer…easy, breezy casual, but looking great.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE DERBY: safe, neat, easy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DERBY: A Perfume Review, Scentrist.com

BOTTOM LINE: To me this smells a lot like my vintage Givenchy III, except with a slightly more masculine tinge. I would like to smell the vintage Derby because I have heard that it’s a bit beefier and contains actual oakmoss. The carnation mimics the oakmoss well, but it’s not the same as the real thing. Do I want a full bottle of Derby? No. Wait…if someone has a bee bottle that they want to get rid of, I would gladly take it!!

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Woody
Classification: Masculine
Expense: $245 for 100ml EdT

August 7, 2013
by The Scented Hound 21 Comments

Encens Mythique D’Orient by Guerlain

WHAT I SMELL: Encens Mythique D’Orient opens with an aldehyde and astringent pop, followed by bitter green. It’s initial opening is rather uninspired and kind of meh. So far this doesn’t feel “Guerlainy” to me. After about five long minutes I start to detect some incense, albeit ever so light and discreet. Encens Mythique D’Orient then become a bit sweeter, but sweeter with a sour tinge. Overall its very translucent. So much so, that I can barely smell it when I bring my wrist to my nose. Very strange…after around 10 minutes, I get what smells like a pencil. Actually, it’s not pencil shavings, but instead the smell of a pencil and its lead after you just finished sharpening it. After a couple more minutes, add a light sugar on top of the pencil. Thankfully at this point, the fragrance starts to blossom with the advent of some rose. Again, it’s restrained, but seems to have a bit more projection. After around what seems to be along 20 minutes I actually start to like this. The mix of rose and incense becomes intoxicating and is warm and full-bodied when I lift my wrist to my nose. Behind the sheer is some wonderful musky beef, but somehow with the beef Encens Mythique D’Orient manages to remain translucent. By now, it does feel “Guerlainy.” I like that.

From the Guerlain website:

Notes: rose, aldehydes, saffron, pink pepper, vetiver, patchouli, notes of undergrowth, ambergris, incense

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A veil. You want it to reveal itself, but it keeps you somewhat at bay.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ENCENS MYTHIQUE D’ORIENT: translucent, warming, mysterious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ENCENS MYTHIQUE D’ORIENT: Kafkaesque, Smellythoughts, The Alembicated Genie

BOTTOM LINE: I like this, but don’t love it as much as the wonderful Rose Nacree, one of the other fragrances in the Les Deserts d’Orient collection. But that won’t keep me from spritzing some more on.

CONFESSION: I was going through my mess of samples and I believe that this came from the wonderful Undina. Thanks Undina. If it did not come from Undina, whoever sent me this with love, I am so sorry for such sloppy housekeeping! New Years resolution number 1013: organize and track my samples!

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Woody
Nose: Thierry Wasser
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $190 Euros from the Guerlain website for 75ml EdP

August 4, 2013
by The Scented Hound 21 Comments

China White by Nasomatto

WHAT I SMELL: At first application, I get some sweet wood, a few aldehydes and then in fast succession an incredibly light rose and some incense which starts to dry out the scent rather quickly. Funny, the fragrance almost retreats after putting it on and you’re left wondering if it’s going to just quickly fade away. After 10 minutes, all I get from China White is lightly sweet and sharp woody incense. After 20 minutes, thankfully, the floral aspects start to come back making this more palatable in my book by giving it more dimension. Oh wait, they just went away again…or are they back again?? China White can’t seem to make up its mind. After about 30 minutes, add something that smells a bit like hair spray. I’m not quite sure if that’s really necessary!

China White Notes – The Nasamatto website doesn’t list the fragrance’s notes. Fragrantica doesn’t list the notes as well, but provided the following: Nasomatto China White was presented in 2008 as a floral-woody fragrance for women, composed of powdery notes of fresh flowers and woody accords.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Comme des Garcon Avignon’s little cousin who is a bit more shy and just a tad sweeter.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHINA WHITE: quiet, restrained, light

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHINA WHITE: Eiderdown Press , Worse Than Weeds, Nathan Branch

BOTTOM LINE: I like it and I don’t like it. China White makes me feel a bit schizophrenic. Every time I sniff my wrist it’s either all incense (I don’t just like incense) or its a combination of floral and incense (I like it like this)… but enough already, make up your mind so I can love it or leave it.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Nose: Alessandro Gualtieri
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $165 for 30ml Parfum Extrait