The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Chanel No. 19 Eau de Toilette

WHAT I SMELL:  Chanel No. 19 opens with bright aldehydes and a sweetened bergamot that quickly turns to a buttery iris that is so radiantly smooth that it glides on the skin as if it’s surfing just a milliliter off of your body.  Right from first spritz the perfume has a big presence, but it’s neither harsh nor abrasive.  Instead, it’s incredibly inviting with its positive energy.  After a bit, the perfume begins to dry and powder and the galbanum increasingly radiates with a dusty aura.  After some more time, the greenish galbanum and the lilting iris begin to flatten and a light sandalwood partners in the mix.  It’s here where Chanel No. 19 retreats in this warmed aura of green radiant sunshine.  Chanel No. 19 eau de toilette is an incredible perfume that’s easy to wear and easy to love.

From the Chanel website:

Daring, distinctive and uncompromising. A floral, woody, green fragrance with perfect balance.

An ideal harmony between the vibrant, green notes of Galbanum and the soft, powdery notes of Iris.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Happy and perfectly content.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHANEL NO. 19:  powdery, comfortable, radiant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHANEL NO. 19:  Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE:  Chanel No. 19 is a classic that’s easy to wear, fresh and completely unpretentious while at the same time is incredibly beautiful and long lasting.  To me, Chanel No. 19 eau de toilette is a perfect Christmas present because it’s affordable, delightful and more importantly, because it’s Chanel!

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Chypre
  • Nose:  Henri Robert
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  $110 for 100ml eau de toilette.


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Vilhelm Parfumerie – Basilico & Fellini

WHAT I SMELL:  Basilico & Fellini opens with a warmed, sparkling and zesty dragon fruit that is incredibly uplifting in its tanginess and its freshness.  The basil comes in quickly to add this great mix of herbal goodness to the tangy fruit.  It’s gourmand, but from the garden with the fruit and herb.  After a bit, the dragon fruit begins to make way for a soft violet mixed with a fuzzy fig.  There’s so much freshness going on here that is so refreshing, delightful and positive in its energy.  All the notes within this concoction seem to take turns coming to the surface, from fruit to herb to flower as if they’re involved with a whirling and twirling dance of happiness.  This dance continues for quite some time, but it finally slows down to quietly end with a warm and comforting fig infused hay.  Basilico & Fellini is a delight of a perfume that’s perfect for warmer weather as well as those winter days when you want to be transported back to the sun-filled splendor of the garden.

From the Vilhelm Parfumerie website:

The unmistakable smell of risotto bianco and a minty, peppery kick as the ultra fresh basil warms on the dish. A bon vivant who wanted to show life in all its glorious reality – people eating, sleeping and making love – Federico Fellini was said to request extra servings of this herb, rumored to be an aphrodisiac.

Top:  Dragon Fruit, Basil
Middle : Violet, Wild Fig
Base : Vetiver, Green Hay

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Fig and basil garden goodness.  So much so that I thought I would include a recipe for a delicious fresh salad.

Fresh Fig Salad with Basil, Goat Cheese, and Arugula

Fig season is short and sweet, so make the most of it with this fresh fig salad with basil, goat cheese, and pomegranate vinaigrette.  Yields 4 servings.

Ingredients:
  • 1 shallot, minced
  • 1 tsp dijon mustard
  • 4 tsp pomegranate molasses
  • salt and black pepper, to taste
  • 6 tbsp olive oil
  • 5 oz arugula
  • ¾ cup basil leaves
  • 8 ripe figs, room temperature
  • 4 oz goat cheese, crumbled
Instructions:
  1. In a large bowl, whisk together the shallot, mustard, and pomegranate molasses. Add some salt and black pepper to season and then whisk in the olive oil.
  2. Add the arugula and basil to the bowl and toss to combine. Divide among serving plates.
  3. Quarter the figs and arrange over the salad. Top with goat cheese crumbles and serve immediately.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BASILICO & FELLINI:  zesty, uplifting, fresh

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BASILICO & FELLINI:  Pink Wall BlogCaFleureBonColognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  Basilico & Fellini is an easy to wear, fresh aromatic perfume that just sings in the sun.  The basil, dragon fruit, violet and fig are just the right mix of earthly…or should I say “heavenly” goodness.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Aromatic Fruity
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $150 for 50 ml eau de parfum


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Vintage Houbigant Essence Rare Parfum Extrait

WHAT I SMELL:  Essence Rare opens with what seems to be fading aldehydes that are quickly met by a spiced geranium.  The perfume deepens quickly as the perfume moves to a civet and amber making it very mature almost from the start as there’s nothing light nor fluffy about it.  As it continues to develop, the oakmoss pushes itself to the forefront and it’s here the perfume puts out a strong forcefield as it’s all powdered and dry oakmoss, spice and civet.  After quite some time, the perfume begins to retreat a bit and thankfully a beautiful sandalwood laced with warm florals begins to take the perfume from the overt to the almost sublime.  In the end, Essence Rare is still mature, but it’s much more approachable, albeit with a strong personality.

Essence Rare Notes:

Top:  aldehydes, bergamot, lily of the valley
Heart:  geranium, rose, iris
Base:  sandalwood, ambergris, vanilla, oakmoss, musk, tonka bean, vetiver, civet

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Forgive me, but the image of Dana Carvey’s “Church Lady” popped in my head.  The perfume seems stuck in the 70s, is a bit unforgiving and begs to be noticed.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ESSENCE RARE:  solid, stocky, bold

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ESSENCE RARE:  Bois de Jasmin, Fragrantica

BOTTOM LINE:  I found the iceberg bottle pictured above at an antique store for $15, so I thought, why not.  As many of you know, I love vintage perfumes, but Essence Rare is a rarity where it’s anything but a love.  What I typically like about these small extrait bottles is that they generally stay fresher than some of their larger counterparts.  I’m sure that there has been degradation with this, but I believe that Essence Rare was pretty much a powerhouse from day one and it does feel very dated.  So my 2 bones rating is based solely on this bottle…but maybe it’s just that bottle and some day I’ll run into one that makes me reconsider.

It should be noted that Essence Rare was reformulated in 2018 and the perfume was once again created by Jean-Claude Ellena.  But everything that I have read about it states that this new version is much lighter and rather pretty and no doubt more approachable to today’s market.

  • Bone Rating: 2 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Aldehyde
  • Note:  Jean-Claude Ellena
  • Classification: To me, very unisex
  • Expense:  Prices vary.  Review based on the 1976 reissued version parfum extrait.