Maison Nicolas de Barry | The Scented Hound

September 24, 2015
by The Scented Hound 2 Comments

Madame de Pompadour by Maison Nicolas de Barry

WHAT I SMELL: Madame de Pompadour opens with a green bouquet of big florals dominated by a warm and slightly mentholated tuberose. As big as the combination of florals is, the perfume feels light and airy and as if sunlit through and an elegantly draped window. The perfume is warm and inviting, mature but yet still carefree like it’s full of laughter. After around 10 minutes the perfume begins to become more powdery and dry. But thankfully, this does not dilute the florals, but instead brings forth a more sweetened and condensed bouquet where the iris starts to come towards the front. Here, the perfume becomes more delicate and more ladylike. But as soon as I say that, a warm amber begins to sit at the base which really makes the perfume project. Madame de Pompadour has an aura of grace and femininity combined with a substantial confidence. In the end the perfume softens becomes a powder puff of florals…only to move into a rather hefty soapiness.

From the Maison Nicolas de Barry website:

The iris flower dominates the head and bouquet brings together the favorite flowers of the Marquise: rose, jasmine, gardenia, violet, hyacinth, daffodil, carnation and tuberose. The iris and amber persistent nature give more elegance to this powdered mix. The iris flower dominates the top notes and the bouquet is a collection of the favorite flowers of the Marquees: roses, jasmine, gardenia, violet , hyacinth, daffodil and tuberous. Iris and amber in wide quantities to give this bouquet has more powdered elegance.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The beautiful Madame de Pompadour matches perfectly with the fragrance whom it is named for.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MADAME de POMPADOUR: graceful, classic, refined

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MADAME de POMPADOUR: Parfumistans Blogg, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: Oh my, Madame de Pompadour had me in her spell until the final drydown when the soap appeared. She is a beauty for sure, but if you have any aversion to soap in your perfume, you may want to stay away.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Noses: Nicolas de Barry and Eddy Blanchet
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $149 Euros for 100 ml Eau de Parfum

November 14, 2013
by The Scented Hound 15 Comments

L’eau de Shah Jahan and L’eau de Mumtaz-I Mahal by the House of Haute Perfumerie Nicolas de Barry

In honor of the love that inspired one of the most beautiful structures in the world, the Taj Mahal; perfumer Nicolas de Barry created two fragrances that embody the personas of the two historical figures, whose love was so great that this magnificent monument was erected in sorrow to memorialize one man’s most beloved.

L’EAU DE SHAH JAHAN (THE PASSIONATE) –

WHAT I SMELL: Shah Jahan opens with a sweet rose that is quickly met with a bit of warm sandalwood. It’s light and rather pretty until around the five minute mark when a woodiness appears and draws down any of the initial sweetness. The fragrance at this time is quite subtle, but you can tell that bubbling underneath is an unknown presence that will soon make an appearance. After around 15 minutes, there’s a deep and darkish burning tire note that comes into play. However, it’s not overwhelming but helps to adds to the depth of the fragrance. There are still hints of the sweetened rose that rise up and mix with the burnt note and they interplay as if they are sharing a ride on a fragrance teeter-totter. After some time, the burnt note dissipates and becomes more smoky and the oud in the base is thankfully not heavy, but instead is slightly sweet which helps to keep Shah Jahan masculine and warm, yet rather pretty as well.

From the House of Haute Perfumerie Nicolas de Barry:

For this imperial fragrance, Nicolas de Barry reconstituted an oud attar according to princely traditions of Kannauj’s master perfumers who blends rose with woody scents of sandalwood and aloe. The rose gives a fresh note to the oriental bouquet and creates a truly Indian masculine fragrance. To wear the passionate L’eau de Shah Jahan, is becoming a gallant man inspired by love who maneuvers in the glitz and utmost refinements; a man of power who listens to his heart despite of all expectations.

Top Note – Pink Himalayan India Rose, Middle Note – sandalwood, Base Note – Oud Assam

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A doorway to an Indian dream.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE L’EAU DE SHAH JAHAN: confident, wise, thoughtful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’EAU DE SHAH JAHAN: No reviews found.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental
Nose: Nicolas de Barry
Classification: Unisex – leans masculine
Expense: 129 Euros for 100ml EdP from the House of Haute Perfumerie Nicolas de Barry website

L’EAU DE MUMTAZ-I MAHAL (THE ENCHANTRESS) –

WHAT I SMELL: Mumtaz-I Mahal goes on with a soured oudish like rose. There’s a strange burnished note that feels like the rose has just been seared. It sits close to the skin at the beginning until after about five minutes or so, the rose begins to warm and pulsate off of the skin. I find this fragrance wonderfully different in the fact that it doesn’t feel like it’s for western audiences and I can say that it smells different from anything I have smelled before. After some more time, the fragrance warms further and it begins to give off a slightly sweetened and light sugared note. But it’s like a sheer gauze over the exotic base. At around the 30 minute mark, the fragrance comes into its own as the rose is met with an earthy sandalwood. This rose is about as exotic as it gets. I feel that wearing it I’ll be met with some adventure in a far off land. I’m having a hard time finding the words to describe this, but the best I can do is to say that it’s “sweet and sour.” The sweetness is earthy and grounded and it’s balanced by this sourish almost plastic composition. I know that sounds like it wouldn’t be a good thing, but it really works and adds to the exoticness. In the end, it becomes a surprisingly close to the skin warmish, tender and powdery dream of a fragrance. I just wish there was more longevity to it.

From the House of Haute Perfumerie Nicolas de Barry:

To pay tribute to this legendary love which inspired the most beautiful monument of India, Taj Mahal; Nicolas de Barry pretended to be the perfumer of this imperial couple. He dedicated an ode of rose, the favorite flower of the Akbar emperor, that Mumtaz sniffs it often on her Persian miniatures. To wear the enchanting L’eau de Mumtaz-I Mahal, is to mark your difference by your grace, sensuality and the desire to seduce by your beauty, as well as your intelligence. A floral, powdery perfume with character for cultivate, aesthete and a little artist person.

Top Note – White Rose, Middle Note – Pink Himalayan India Rose, Base Note – sandalwood WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: I’ll go with the obvious; an exotic rose amidst the grandeur of the Taj Mahal.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE L’EAU DE MUMTAZ-I MAHAL: exotic, original, different

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’EAU DE MUMTAZ-I MAHAL: No reviews found.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Nicolas de Barry
Classification: Unisex
Expense: 129 Euros for 100ml EdP from the House of Haute Perfumerie Nicolas de Barry website

BOTTOM LINE: Both of these fragrances compliment each other tremendously. They are similar, yet are quite different. It’s like they each start off on their own individual journey, then meet in the middle with similar qualities, but then end their course in a way that binds and ties them together in harmony.

Disclosure: Product for review provided courtesy of House of Haute Perfumerie Nicolas de Barry.

January 1, 2013
by The Scented Hound 28 Comments

Happy New Year…and a Belated 2012 in Review

Ahhhh, 2012 is finally over and 2013 is finally here! I hope that everyone had a wonderful and safe New Year’s Eve. Ours went out with a bang as we went to see Cheyenne Jackson with the National Symphony Orchestra performing songs from the “Mad Men” era at the Kennedy Center. It was hands down the best concert that I have experienced in many years and Cheyenne Jackson is an extraordinary talent. It was a wonderful way to end 2012.

I meant to post this listing prior to the end of the year, but I always seem to be running late these days. Like some of the other wonderful bloggers out there, I will comment on some of the perfume like and dislikes for the year. However, as I can’t claim to be privy to all of the new releases, my opinions will include both new and existing discoveries.

Best Fragrance Find of the Year:

George Sand by Nicolas de Barry – OK, I have raved about this numerous times and I’m sure that you are all tired of hearing my praises about this fragrance, but this has to be my favorite for the year. It is my comfort scent and the one fragrance that I just can’t get enough of. Although it was previously labeled under Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, it now is part of the Maison de Haute Perfumerie Nicolas de Barry collection. I like being in love!

Runners up: Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain and Trayee by Neela Vermeire Creations

Favorite Fragrance House of the Year:

Parfum d’Empire – Wonderful niche perfumes at a very reasonable cost. I own more Pd’E perfumes than any other fragrance house. Iskander and Azemour les Orangers were my mainstay this past summer and I am itching to add Wazamba and Aziyade to my collection. The wonderful oakmoss base on these fragrances is so smooth and luxurious. Big yummy! Which then leads to…

Biggest Disappointment of the Year:

Musc Tonkin by Parfum d’Empire. This was a blind buy that was based on my love of their perfumes and the fact that it is a limited edition. I wore this again the other day and once again it left me cold. Does anyone want to purchase a slightly used bottle?

Best Marketing of the Year:

By Kilian smartly sends out samples of their new releases to all their Facebook friends. Smart, smart, smart. I wish more perfumers would do the same. Although I understand that the LVMH, by Kilian’s parent company, has more money than most fragrant houses which makes this easily possible.

Arquiste is a close 2nd in this category. The ever so cute Carlos Huber is out there constantly stirring up publicity.

Anyone who says they’re not influenced by marketing in the least is in my opinion very self unaware. We all get sucked in to a degree.

Best Packaging of the Year:

By Kilian again has the most remarkable and beautiful packaging. The “In the Garden of Good and Evil” clutches are absolutely breathtaking. Unfortunately they come at a high price and the perfumes were underwhelming at best.

Best Fragrance Personality of the Year:

I don’t know if I labeled this category correctly, but this honor goes to Neela Vermeire. Her warmth, friendliness, support and personal attention is only matched by the trio of magnificent perfumes that were developed for Neela Vermeire Creations with Bertrand Douchaufour. I can’t wait to see what she has in store for 2013.

Worst Blind Buy of the Year:

We all do it on occasionally, but for me it was Royal Pavillon by Etro. I purchased this for a song and I can see why it was such a deal. This fragrance is like fingers on a chalkboard to me. Unfortunately my better half likes it and wears it on occasion. When he does, I can’t stand being in the same room.

Biggest Scrubber of the Year:

Orange Star by Tauer Perfumes. I know this is an either you love it or hate it perfume. For me, I can still smell it in my head months after testing it and the memory can still make me nauseous.

2012 Me Against the World Award:

I think that 90% of the fragrance world loved Seville a l’Aube by L’Artisan Perfumeur. For me it was just a sour mess.

Best Online Retailer of the Year:

Is there any question that Lucky Scent remains the king of niche perfume retailers? I love their service and love their site and their ever increasing stock of interesting niche perfumes. Unfortunately, my wallet suffers continually at their hands! I hope to one day soon visit the infamous Scent Bar!

OK, I could go on and on with lists and my thoughts on the best and worst of the year, but I have to go put my New Year’s ham in the oven and get my first day of 2013 going. All the best to my perfume friends in 2013! I look forward to the year’s journey ahead with you.

Steve