The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Madame de Pompadour by Maison Nicolas de Barry

madame-de-pompadour-nicolas de barry

WHAT I SMELL: Madame de Pompadour opens with a green bouquet of big florals dominated by a warm and slightly mentholated tuberose.  As big as the combination of florals is, the perfume feels light and airy and as if sunlit through and an elegantly draped window.  The perfume is warm and inviting, mature but yet still carefree like it’s full of laughter.  After around 10 minutes the perfume begins to become more powdery and dry.  But thankfully, this does not dilute the florals, but instead brings forth a more sweetened and condensed bouquet where the iris starts to come towards the front.  Here, the perfume becomes more delicate and more ladylike.  But as soon as I say that, a warm amber begins to sit at the base which really makes the perfume project.  Madame de Pompadour has an aura of grace and femininity combined with a substantial confidence.  In the end the perfume softens becomes a powder puff of florals…only to move into a rather hefty soapiness.

The iris flower dominates the head and bouquet brings together the favorite flowers of the Marquise: rose, jasmine, gardenia, violet, hyacinth, daffodil, carnation and tuberose. The iris and amber persistent nature give more elegance to this powdered mix.  The iris flower dominates the top notes and the bouquet is a collection of the favorite flowers of the Marquees: roses, jasmine, gardenia, violet , hyacinth, daffodil and tuberous. Iris and amber in wide quantities to give this bouquet has more powdered elegance.

boucher-mme.depomp.WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The beautiful Madame de Pompadour matches perfectly with the fragrance whom it is named for.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MADAME de POMPADOUR: graceful, classic, refined

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MADAME de POMPADOUR: Parfumistans Blogg, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Oh my, Madame de Pompadour had me in her spell until the final drydown when the soap appeared.  She is a beauty for sure, but if you have any aversion to soap in your perfume, you may want to stay away.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral Woody Musk
  • Noses:  Nicolas de Barry and Eddy Blanchet
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $149 Euros for 100 ml Eau de Parfum


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L’eau de Shah Jahan and L’eau de Mumtaz-I Mahal by the House of Haute Perfumerie Nicolas de Barry

MahalJahanIn honor of the love that inspired one of the most beautiful structures in the world, the Taj Mahal; perfumer Nicolas de Barry created two fragrances that embody the personas of the two historical figures, whose love was so great that this magnificent monument was erected in sorrow to memorialize one man’s most beloved.

L’EAU DE SHAH JAHAN (THE PASSIONATE) – 

WHAT I SMELL:  Shah Jahan opens with a sweet rose that is quickly met with a bit of warm sandalwood.  It’s light and rather pretty until around the five minute mark when a woodiness appears and draws down any of the initial sweetness.  The fragrance at this time is quite subtle, but you can tell that bubbling underneath is an unknown presence that will soon make an appearance.  After around 15 minutes, there’s a deep and darkish burning tire note that comes into play.  However, it’s not overwhelming but helps to adds to the depth of the fragrance.  There are still hints of the sweetened rose that rise up and mix with the burnt note and they interplay as if they are sharing a ride on a fragrance teeter-totter.   After some time, the burnt note dissipates and becomes more smoky and the oud in the base is thankfully not heavy, but instead is slightly sweet which helps to keep Shah Jahan masculine and warm, yet rather pretty as well.

From the House of Haute Perfumerie Nicolas de Barry:

For this imperial fragrance, Nicolas de Barry reconstituted an oud attar according to princely traditions of Kannauj’s master perfumers who blends rose with woody scents of sandalwood and aloe.  The rose gives a fresh note to the oriental bouquet and creates a truly Indian masculine fragrance.  To wear the passionate L’eau de Shah Jahan, is becoming a gallant man inspired by love who maneuvers in the glitz and utmost refinements; a man of power who listens to his heart despite of all expectations. 

Top Note – Pink Himalayan India Rose, Middle Note – sandalwood, Base Note – Oud Assam

indiandoorwayWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A doorway to an Indian dream.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE L’EAU DE SHAH JAHANconfident, wise, thoughtful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’EAU DE SHAH JAHAN:  No reviews found.

L’EAU DE MUMTAZ-I MAHAL (THE ENCHANTRESS) –  mUMTAZ

WHAT I SMELL:   Mumtaz-I Mahal goes on with a soured oudish like rose.  There’s a strange burnished note that feels like the rose has just been seared.  It sits close to the skin at the beginning until after about five minutes or so, the rose begins to warm and pulsate off of the skin.  I find this fragrance wonderfully different in the fact that it doesn’t feel like it’s for western audiences and I can say that it smells different from anything I have smelled before.   After some more time, the fragrance warms further and it begins to give off a slightly sweetened and light sugared note.  But it’s like a sheer gauze over the exotic base.  At around the 30 minute mark, the fragrance comes into its own as the rose is met with an earthy sandalwood.  This rose is about as exotic as it gets.  I feel that wearing it I’ll be met with some adventure in a far off land.  I’m having a hard time finding the words to describe this, but the best I can do is to say that it’s “sweet and sour.”  The sweetness is earthy and grounded and it’s balanced by this sourish almost plastic composition.  I know that sounds like it wouldn’t be a good thing, but it really works and adds to the exoticness.  In the end, it becomes a surprisingly close to the skin warmish, tender and powdery dream of a fragrance.  I just wish there was more longevity to it.

From the House of Haute Perfumerie Nicolas de Barry:

To pay tribute to this legendary love which inspired the most beautiful monument of India, Taj Mahal; Nicolas de Barry pretended to be the perfumer of this imperial couple.  He dedicated an ode of rose, the favorite flower of the Akbar emperor, that Mumtaz sniffs it often on her Persian miniatures.  To wear the enchanting L’eau de Mumtaz-I Mahal, is to mark your difference by your grace, sensuality and the desire to seduce by your beauty, as well as your intelligence.  A floral, powdery perfume with character for cultivate, aesthete and a little artist person.

Top Note – White Rose, Middle Note – Pink Himalayan India Rose, Base Note – sandalwood tajmahalroseWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  I’ll go with the obvious; an exotic rose amidst the grandeur of the Taj Mahal.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE L’EAU DE MUMTAZ-I MAHAL:  exotic, original, different

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’EAU DE MUMTAZ-I MAHAL:  No reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Both of these fragrances compliment each other tremendously.  They are similar,  yet are quite different.  It’s like they each start off on their own individual journey, then meet in the middle with similar qualities, but then end their course in a way that binds and ties them together in harmony.

Disclosure:  Product for review provided courtesy of House of Haute Perfumerie Nicolas de Barry.