The Scented Hound

January 25, 2016
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

New Releases: Constance & Quentin by Deco London Perfumes

CONSTANCE

WHAT I SMELL: Constance opens with the most inviting deep mandarin floral combination; it’s gorgeous, big, beautiful and rather buttery…and it’s thick and juicy and completely rapturous…oh, I could keep on going! In a short time, the thick sheen of juice soon begins to thin and soften and the rather fruity opening moves to a light spice with jasmine at the heart. Constance remains incredibly pretty, but the big, and bold moves towards the more mysterious and exotic. Vanilla sets the tone moving forward, but with a light hand. The perfume is so incredibly warm and inviting and it feels as if it pulses off the skin as if it were an extension of one’s being. Additionally, a bit of labdanum adds just the right amount of amber like dimension keeping the vanilla in check. In the end, Constance is this intoxicating warm and exotic floral that’s spiced, lightly powdered and incensed. Constance is a head turner and absolutely beautiful.

From the Deco London website:

…perfect for those who love fruity and spicy scents, jasmine, luxury woods and vanilla…

The year is 1927…Constance is vivacious, passionate and chic; effortlessly elegant in tailored blouses and trousers during the day, but at night she is the centre of attention in an Egyptian-inspired beaded dress, red lipstick and daring high heels …

Top – Bergamot, Mandarin Blossom, Mimosa

Middle – Raspberry Blossom, Rose, Pink Pepper, Jasmine, Patchouli

Base – Sandalwood, Labdanum, Vanilla, Beeswax, Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A woman of mystery…Mata Hari.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CONSTANCE: intoxicating, rapturous, temptress (OK, so that’s a noun)

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Woody
Nose: Robertet
Classification: Feminine, but I could see a man wearing this as well.
Expense: $120 for 50ml eau de parfum. Exclusively sold in the US by Indigo Perfumery.

QUENTIN

WHAT I SMELL: Quentin opens with a rather funky herbal tarragon and a cinnamon that mixed together is bold and smells a little off. This initial funk makes me wonder what kind of ride I’m in for. Soon enough, the herbal discordant opening starts to even out the rough edges and the mixture moves from the funkified to a more flattened woodiness and light leather. At this stage, the perfume is really dry and the leather is front and center and a woody vetiver takes its place next to it. In addition, a patchouli adds just a light sweetness to the perfume, but it chooses to stay in the background. For some time, there’s a noticeable petroleum smell, as if the leather was cured in oil and grease. But as the perfume develops, that starts to dissipate and a floral warmth takes its place. On paper, this smelled a great deal to me like Miss Dior. On my skin however, I am thinking not so much…that is until around 30 minutes into the wear. And that’s a good thing. Miss Dior rocks my world and it is about as masculine of a woman’s perfume as there is. As the perfume continues to develop, it becomes less Miss Dior and ends up in this petroleum fueled leather spiced musk. Quentin is a traditional scent fortified with just the right amount of daring.

From the Deco London website:

…perfect for those who love assertive elegant woody scents, leather notes and musk…

The year is 1925… Quentin is charming, stylish and impeccably attired and is always impeccably attired in flamboyant style. You will often find him relaxing by day at the cricket drinking a fine Sauvignon blanc and at parties by night sipping champagne…

Top notes: Bergamot, Cinnamon Bark, Tarragon

Heart notes: Carnation, Geranium, Patchouli

Base notes: Moss, Leather, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The original Red Baron, Manfred von Richthofen.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE QUENTIN: bold, self-assured, headstrong

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody Spicy
- Nose: Robertet
Classification: Masculine
- Expense: $120 for 50ml eau de parfum. Exclusively sold in the US by Indigo Perfumery.

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DECO LONDON PERFUMES: BGirl Rhapsody

BOTTOM LINE: The Deco London line beautifully captures the essence of traditional perfumery, but with a modern sensibility. As you can see, Constance is my favorite in the line, but the feminine floral essence of Millicent comes in a close second. For the men, Quentin has that modern edge that makes it unique, but Ernest is an incredible old school classic perfume. What a great start for a new perfume house. Welcome Deco London, you’ve made quite the splash!

Samples courtesy of Indigo Perfumery.

January 20, 2016
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

Chloé Eau de Parfum

WHAT I SMELL: Chloé opens up warm, with a slightly bathtastic rose and peony combination mixed with a restrained honey accord. My first thought is that the perfume is incredibly romantic and sensual, but it also feels very carefree without seeming juvenile. Soon in the development, there’s a magnolia note that adds a welcomed floral pop that provides a lovely compliment to the rose and peony. After around 10 minutes, a light woody accord seems to weave in and out of the perfume which helps to balance out the sweetness of the florals. As the perfume continues to develop, the projection begins to grow as does the sweetness and the powder. But by no means does the perfume overwhelm. Instead, it maintains this pretty peony spring like freshness. Chloé is an easy to wear perfume that would be the perfect perfume for any occasion.

From the Chloé website:

The heart of a blooming rose

This rose blooms with confidence and individuality, free from the usual codes. She is the original Chloé girl – warm, playful and seductive.

Chloé Eau de Parfum is our signature scent. Combined with magnolias and generous peonies, it is both honey-like and powdery on the skin. Cheeky, free and sophisticated, it vibrates with a woody tone, a touch of ambergris and a sheen of cedar scent.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Pink peonies and sunshine.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHLOÉ EAU DE PARFUM: bright, easy, effortless

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHLOÉ EAU DE PARFUM: Diary of a Perfume Addict, Mostly Sunny, Cute and Mundane

BOTTOM LINE: Chloé was a wonderful surprise for me. The understated prettiness and ease of wear makes this an anywhere and anytime perfume. As I write this review on a cold and dreary day, Chloé is a much-needed ready-made prelude to spring!

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Noses: Amandine Marie and Michel Almairac
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $105 for 1.7 oz. Eau de Parfum

January 18, 2016
by The Scented Hound 14 Comments

Iris Cendré by Naomi Goodsir

WHAT I SMELL: Iris Cendré opens up cool, yet warm with a suede-like bergamot that starts to sparkle quickly with a dash of tangerine. The perfume is semi-light and airy and reminds me of feathers descending to the ground after a pillow fight. Soon the incense comes rushing to the forefront, but in a powdered and light-handed matter. At this stage of the perfume, it feels like a giant powder puff of feminine floral magic. What I find interesting is that you can feel the complexity and quality in the perfume, yet it carries itself in the most simple and elegant manner. So where’s the iris? It’s been there all along, but it’s soft, delicate and basking in warmth behind the other notes. It doesn’t want to be the center of attention and instead choosing to be cool and aloof like iris can sometimes be. As the perfume dries down, it becomes stripped of most of its moisture and ends it’s journey in a haze of incense which finally gives way to a light floral musk. Iris Cendré has me mystified.

From the Naomi Goodsir website:

A fresh floral tone, led by bergamot, tangerine & spices. A rich & powdery heart of incense & purple iris. Sensuality is enhanced by cistus, tobacco & amber.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Black swan feathers.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE IRIS CENDRÉ: elegant, elusive, restrained

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT IRIS CENDRÉ: Kafkaesque, Colognoisseur, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: Iris Cendré is an incredibly beautiful and restrained iris beauty. It’s elegant simplicity and cool demeanor conceals a complex heart. My only regret with the perfume is that the opening doesn’t last as long as I would like.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Noses: Julien Rasquinet
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $187 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Lucky Scent.