WHAT I SMELL: Molinard de Molinard’s opening is all smoke and incense on top of bergamot and a muted fruit. This is quite the contradiction in notes, but somehow it really works and makes the kick off incredibly interesting. After around 5 minutes the florals start to brush away the smoke and incense (but not too much though) to reveal a rather bright undercurrent filled with my favorites, ylang-ylang and rose (somehow that combination always seems to work for me). The fragrance is quite large and at times seems more fruity than floral but the one consistent is the veil of incense that seems to glide and move around the other notes. There’s a strange mix of cool and warmth with this; the base is warm but there is this sheered gauze above that seems to be a bit cooler. This is one of the fragrances that when sniffed you can feel the movement of the molecules running under your nostrils. As the fragrance begins to settle, the movement dies down and the incense calms to a whisper and the fragrance becomes golden warmth. It’s incredibly sensuous and very womanly, a real radiant beauty. After a few hours, you’re left with a lightly sweetened fruity comforting dream.
Molinard de Molinard notes via Fragrantica:
Top notes are black currant, fruity notes, green notes, asafoetida, lemon, bergamot and cassis; middle notes are jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, Bulgarian rose and narcissus; base notes are labdanum, amber, musk, vetiver, incense and patchouli.
WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Beautiful and mysterious, like an early 1930s Myrna Loy when she was still playing “exotics” prior to becoming a star.
THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MOLINARD DE MOLINARD: mysterious, sensuous, radiant
WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MOLINARD DE MOLINARD: Post Modern Perfume (the only review I could find and which was based on the EdT version which was a very different experience from my Parfum Extrait version)
BOTTOM LINE: I found this little 7.5ml beauty at an estate sale and only wish that I had more. I don’t wear it often, but when I do, I always ask myself, why I don’t. Part of it is that I hide it away in a cabinet like a precious jewel that I just don’t ever want to lose. Oh, and what a little jewel it is…the bottle is an exquisite Lalique beauty.
- Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
- Scent: Fruity Floral
- Classification: Feminine
- Expense: Varied for vintage. Review based on the Parfum Extrait version.
June 14, 2014 at 2:15 pm
I’ve tried EDT version from the 80s but never had a chance to try the vintage extrait. I kind of liked the EDT but it didn’t stand out; it was one of those “it’s OK and pleasant but…” I wish I could have a sniff of the Parfum Extrait.
By the way, the particular photo of Myrna Loy above jumped out on me as soon as I opened the page and somehow I misread the word “exotics” as “exorcist”. 😀
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June 14, 2014 at 5:01 pm
You seriously made me laugh out loud with that last comment. She does rather look like she needs an exorcist in that pic. I do have the feeling that there is a big different between the EdT and the extrait given the other review that I have a link to which described this as completely green. I didn’t get that at all. And maybe it has to do with the vintage as well. In any case, I love what I have in my hands 🙂
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June 14, 2014 at 3:14 pm
What a find! I am quite jealous of your estate finds. Make sure you keep the cap on tight on this one. This past New Year, I was in Nice and stumbled upon the Molinard boutique but alas, everything they had were of modern vintage. I got there close to closing time so could not linger but I happened to notice a room where perfume making classes are held. Great review but it is more difficult to lemming a vintage perfume 🙂
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June 14, 2014 at 5:02 pm
I know.. sometimes I feel like I shouldn’t share…but it is fun to share joy 🙂 I think you need to take that class…it would be a blast!
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June 14, 2014 at 5:16 pm
I guess another trip to Nice is in order :-)… a friend mentioned a class that was being offered on a Saturday in Brooklyn (much closer!) but the date did not work for me.
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June 15, 2014 at 1:37 pm
Dearest Hound
Jealous, insanely so, of both bottle and contents.
Is there anyone in their right mind who wouldn’t at least want to know what it feels like to smell like ‘early Myrna Loy’!
Yours ever
The Perfumed Dandy
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June 16, 2014 at 7:16 pm
LOL… such a way with words Mr. Dandy. Nice to see you. I hope all is well!
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June 17, 2014 at 6:38 pm
Dearest Hound
So kind, and I am well, if rather over-burdened with too-enjoyable to refuse work-shaped tasks at present.
So lovely to read about vintage Molinard in a spare moment though…
Yours ever
The Perfumed Dandy
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June 15, 2014 at 3:22 pm
What a gorgeous bottle! I have tried some incarnation of this – possibly a more recent one, I sense – and though my memory of Molinard by Molinard is a bit fuzzy, your review brought it back to me. Big, radiant and fruity is definitely ringing a bell. 😉 Lucky find indeed!
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June 16, 2014 at 7:16 pm
It is a gorgeous bottle for sure. Now if I could just have more of it!
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June 17, 2014 at 8:41 am
So lovely to see a review on one of my all time favorites and well kept secret…I wore the EDT in the early 80s and the red box as the bottle were stunning…great review!
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June 17, 2014 at 12:02 pm
Thanks so much for the kind words Ahimsa…I do think that this pretty fragrance get’s sidelined by it’s more famous sibling Habanita which is lovely in it’s own right.
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June 11, 2017 at 12:33 am
The Parfum Extrait was one of the few extravagances of my early 20s. I bought that first precious, tiny bottle at Nordstrom in 1982. What a gorgeous scent it was! And how I mourn that it’s been reformulated beyond recognition.
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June 11, 2017 at 5:36 am
That tiny bottle is indeed a treasure. I love mine!
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February 17, 2018 at 7:44 pm
I just wore the EDT last night and I still am getting delightful whiffs of it, 24 hours later, so I decided to research it and here I am. I’ve had the beautiful bottle (and box) for years, but have not worn it in a very long time. I believe it was a favorite of Nancy Reagan’s, which may be why it caught my attention way back then. Loved it last night and will use it again soon. Sadly, I never experienced the perfume.
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February 20, 2018 at 7:53 am
Hi Kathee – I think this perfume is so completely underrated. I love it not as an everyday perfume, but one that deserves to be worn on a special occasion. So glad that you have it in your perfume wardrobe!
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May 20, 2021 at 1:28 pm
I got a tiny sample of this when I was 13 and my grandparents toured Grasse in France. Since then it has been a long-standing favorite. I got my mother hooked on it too. I used to have lotion md shower gel too but those are now impossible to find. I wish it weren’t discontinued.
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May 20, 2021 at 1:40 pm
What a wonderful memory, thanks for sharing. And good luck in finding the vintage…maybe eBay can help?
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August 20, 2021 at 3:23 am
I have this same bottle and the beautiful box it came in. It was a gift brought from Europe by my bosses wife many years ago. I love the scent and like you I guess I do treat it like a jewel. I know it was very expensive and I wouldn’t be able to replace it. So I use it sparingly. Might just have to change that.
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