The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Guerlain Chamade Pour Homme

WHAT I SMELL:   The opening of Chamade Pour Homme is a welcomed surprise of warm sensual bergamot and dried black pepper.  It sings, it zings and it’s very debonair and rather sexy as it hits the skin.  In addition, it’s rather beefy without being heavy, but it certainly makes its presence known.  After a short time, a lightly metallic floral note emerges…neither big, nor loud; instead it provides a calming presence to the bold opening.  A nutty note is added to the florals which provides just the right amount of depth without being overly spiced.  As the perfume continues to develop, a very light soapiness and light leather wrap themselves around a brown vetiver.  Eventually, the perfume begins to powder which then brings out the floral heart again.  Here the perfume remains with the most radiant of personality.  Chamade Pour Homme is confident in its masculinity without being brutish.

From the Guerlain website:

In 1999, Jean-Paul Guerlain created this moment of love to respond to the exhilaration of Chamade pour Femme, composed in 1969, a dazzling gift for a beloved woman. This men’s fragrance with its stirring charm makes the heart quiver and the pulse race, just as the momentum of desire kindles awaited pleasure.

Top notes: Italian bergamot, black pepper.
Heart notes: hyacinth, violet leaf note, nutmeg.
Base notes: vetiver, leather, precious wood.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The perfect 1960’s family:  what I envision the dad smells like – clean and confident, and of course he’s one helluva nice guy.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHAMADE POUR HOMME:  semi-tailored, approachable, easy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHAMADE POUR HOMME: EAUMG, WMSSL

BOTTOM LINE:  Chamade Pour Homme isn’t revolutionary, but it’s an incredibly beautiful perfume.  It’s the perfect example of a masculine perfume that doesn’t require its masculinity to be overt.  And the floral heart of the perfume provides for the right amount of softness.  But please Guerlain, can you trade in the woody and boxy perfume bottle for something more attractive?  It actually looks like something that I made in shop class in 7th grade.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody 
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: $250 for 100 ml eau de toilette


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Guerlain Nuit d’Amour

WHAT I SMELL:   Nuit d’Amour opens softly with lightly sweetened lychee fruitiness that swiftly blends with a touch of pink pepper and a softened rose that seems to be puffed with air floating underneath.   The perfume is rather dreamy and is surrounded in a cloudy haze that hovers over the perfumed skin.  Soon enough, a soft violet blends itself in the dreamy concoction.  But here the violet is less innocent, but more knowing and rather mature.  After a short time, a sandalwood begins to form as the base.  Never heavy, it makes the perfect resting place for the lightly warmed florals.  In the end, the perfume quiets even more, leaving you in a powdery haze of light florals wrapped in musky gauze.

From the Guerlain website:

Jean-Paul Guerlain created Nuit d’Amour as a tribute to Gustav Klimt and one of his works of art: “Lady with Hat and Feather Boa.” This floral, powdery and woody fragrance recalls the stirring emotion that might strike when you encounter an unknown woman with indefinable charm.

Powdery and Woody Floral.
Sweet, moving, feminine.
Top notes: lychee, pink pepper.
Heart notes: May rose, violet.
Base notes: sandalwood, white musks, iris.

Lady With Hat and Feather Boa – Gustav Klimt (1909)

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   I can’t argue with Jean-Paul Guerlain’s inspiration of Gustav Klimt’s “Lady with Hat and Feather Boa.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE NUIT D’AMOUR:  reserved, refined, soft

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NUIT D’AMOUR:  Bois de Jasmin, Australian Perfume Junkies

BOTTOM LINE:  I so much want to love this perfume.  It’s soft, it’s pretty, but there’s just not enough of it.  It’s much too restrained to command any affection from me.  That said, it’s really nice…just really nice and that’s a shame.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Floral
  • Nose:  Jean Paul Guerlain
  • Classification:  Feminine
  • Expense:  125 ml Eau de Parfum.  Exclusively at Guerlain Boutiques as part of the Les Parisiennes collection.

 

 


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Chanel Coco Noir

Coco NoirWHAT I SMELL:  Coco Noir opens with a brown sugared and sweetened grapefruit and bergamot.  It’s light and happy, pretty and rather bouncy as the notes crackle with the brown sugar.  The sugar note starts to reveal a lovely floral dominated by jasmine that starts to grow and expand.  There’s something almost a bit masculine about the fragrance as the patchouli provides a woody note that keeps the florals from becoming too feminine.  But as soon as I say that, the perfume continues to grow and expand and it becomes rather creamy, like it would make for a beautiful and enriching hand creme.  Finally, Coco Noir finds it feminine self and the perfume radiates warm florals which are beefed up by a pulsating sandalwood.  The perfume almost has a heartbeat that pulses and projects off the skin in a rhythmic manner.  In the end, Coco Noir provides a powdery finish to a radiant floral that is warmed from below.

From the Chanel website:

Magnetic and uncompromising, COCO NOIR reveals a black that is intimate, seductive and intensely brilliant. Striking top notes of Grapefruit and Bergamot accentuate the floral accord, with Rose and Jasmine, while Indonesian Patchouli and Sandalwood notes add warmth.

Passion via romance novel art!

Passion via romance novel art!

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  pulsating passion

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE COCO NOIR:  tempting, self-assured, confident

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT COCO NOIR:  Bois de Jasmin, Kafkaesque, Undina’s Looking Glass

BOTTOM LINE:  With “noir” in the name, I was expecting Coco Noir to be a heavy oriental full of deep and dark mystery.  Instead, I found a fragrance that is rather big, bold and full of passion.  Coco Noir takes no prisoners and although being rather feminine, there’s enough beef here to make me think that a man could get by with wearing this with ease as well.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Floral
  • Nose:  Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake
  • Classification: Feminine, but could work for a man
  • Expense: Review based on the Eau de Parfum version.  $98 for 3.4 oz. Eau de Parfum.