unisex | The Scented Hound

June 8, 2015
by The Scented Hound 13 Comments

Iniezione di Morfina by Peccato Originale

WHAT I SMELL: Iniezione di Morfina (Injection of Morphine) opens up light and ethereal, yet somehow deep in floral warmth. It’s full-bodied, but very close to the skin in the beginning and the mysterious florals are blended with the lightest of vanilla. After five minutes, the scent feels like it’s fading from my skin; it’s there, but the projection is so muted and subtle. There is something completely intoxicating about the perfume as it wraps it light tendrils around me as it begins to grow. It’ also quite sexy without being overtly so. After 10 minutes, the projection is still close to the skin, but a light soapiness reveals itself, but like the rest of the creation, it too is muted. Soon the soap exits and a powder enters. That, combined with a floral sweetness dries out the perfume. I find Iniezione di Morfina intoxicating and strangely hypnotic. After 30 minutes, the perfume introduces a light puttiness that wraps itself around the florals. After some more time, the vanilla and labdanum come to the front to blanket you in their morphine inspired lullaby.

From the Peccato Originale (Original Sin) website:

L’Elisir based Opium is the source of inspiration. Paracelsus called it Laudanum which means praise. Established quickly addictive and habit forming. Charismatic and enterprising. A debut with white and delicate Jasmine and Lily of the Valley from which bloom Rose Petals and a touch of Iris. The bouquet clear and elegant finishes in White Musk and sensual vanilla.

Notes: Iris, Rose, Jasmin, Lily of the Valley, White Musk, Vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A Victorian angel.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE INIEZIONE DI MORFINA: unique, intriguing, genuine

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT INIEZIONE DI MORFINA: CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: I have not been intrigued by a perfume in a long time. The opening with this perfume is like a dream and I wish it would have stayed in that realm through its entire life. The drydown is comforting, but makes me long for the top notes. This may be a full bottle for me, but I think I need a few more sample injections before I commit to this incredible morphine.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Silvia Monti
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $155 for 100 ml Eau de Parfum, exclusively available at Twisted Lily in the U.S.

March 4, 2015
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

New Release: D.S. & Durga Debaser

WHAT I SMELL: Debaser opens with a luscious pear that is all too quickly replaced with a very milky and creamy fig over a crisp green note. The bergamot gives it a semi sparkling radiance, but that too moves quickly to the side to make way for a woody note that seems to strip the green out of the fragrance only to have it replaced with a drier more hefty wood. Thankfully, the fig does a nice job to help maintain the fragrance from airing completely out . There’s a real comfort here in that as big as the perfume is (trust me it radiates), there is nothing here that goes over the top nor does the fig and coconut become suffocating. After around 15 minutes, the tonka comes to the forefront and there is a rather incensed and smoky edge that helps to continue drying out the perfume. There’s also a bit of a petroleum aspect that seems to reveal itself which adds this unexpected but welcomed dimension which takes Debaser from really nice to really sexy. In the end you’re left with a really lovely mossy and woody concoction that is nicely accentuated with a lightly sugared fig. Just note however that a little goes a long way. I can’t wait to test this in the heat of the summer as it will likely bloom and really project from the heat making it all that more sexy!

Notes from the D.S. & Durga website:

Top notes: bergamot, green leaf, pear stem

Heart notes: fig, coconut milk, iris

Base notes: blond woods, tonka bean, moss

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: What I believe the dashing Mutiny on the Bounty Fletcher Christian would smell like. Any of the movie versions will do. Who’s your pick? Clark Gable, Marlon Brando or Mel Gibson?

Fletcher Christian ala Clark Gable

Fletcher Christian ala Marlon Brando

Fletcher Christian ala Mel Gibson

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE DEBASER: beefy, sexy, bold

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DEBASER: Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE: Debaser is based on the Pixie’s song of the same name inspired by the Luis Buneul and Salvador Dali surrealist film, Un Chien Andalou. To me this obscure and artful inspired perfume bypassed surreal and went to outright sexy to me. Hmmmm, surreal sexiness…have I just tapped into something?

For a video interpretation of the inspiration, click here.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Aromatic Fruity
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $145 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique & Apothecary

February 25, 2015
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

Hand in Hand by Ramon Monegal

WHAT I SMELL: Hand in Hand opens with this warm mentholated spiced rose, that feels like the rose petals have been tinged in a fire with incense. The oud is smoky and strong and minute by minute the smoke grows in intensity, as if the smoke is being pushed through a pumping bellow. Thankfully, after around the 10 minute mark, the smoke and oud start retreating behind the rose, which now is much cleaner than in the opening. The rose, sanitized by the musk begins to become powdery and very dry. But as it becomes dry, the incense and oud spar with the rose for domination. Eventually, they pair up to share the stage, but the rose, combined with the musk make for this lightly candied cotton candied concoction topped with smoke. Unfortunately, after around an hour, you’re left with a light rose musk dryer sheet.

Notes: Bulgarian rose, oud, spicy notes and musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Hanging laundry in the Casbah. It’s the smell of clean sheets washed with rose water that is met by the smell of spice and incense from the city below.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE HAND IN HAND: conflicted, smoky, over-musked

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HAND IN HAND: I couldn’t find any other reviews.

BOTTOM LINE: To me, this is one of those perfumes that I didn’t wear, but it wore me instead. What started off as rather interesting (yet, kind of discordant), ended up being something that was rather bland and boring. Hand in Hand feels like two hands that clearly missed the handshake.

Bone Rating: 2 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $200 for 50 ml Eau de Parfum