The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


17 Comments

PHI – une rose de Kandahar by Tauer Perfumes

PHIFlaconWHAT I SMELL: PHI goes on with a rather flattened apricot with tinges of cinnamon and almond.  It’s kind of a muted sweetness in that when you smell it, it seems layered with the cinnamon hovering on top.  At this point, I’m thinking PHI is nice (nice = just OK), rather personal and relatively close to the skin, and more apricot than rose which I think is a bit strange.  Then at about the 10 to 15 minute mark, the rose begins to bloom.  And bloom it does.  It’s like the rose suddenly opens its petals and unleashes its glorious fragrance.  I don’t think I have ever experienced a rose fragrance that literally unfolds on my skin that way PHI does and I love it.  The rose is rounded and deep, and to me more masculine than feminine and rather gourmand.  But wait, we’re not done yet, after some more time, the rose becomes creamy.  Still further, PHI reveals its patchouli, making the fragrance a bit sweeter and more heady as its mixed with vanilla and amber gris.  Hours later, add in some tonka for a bit of a growl that helps to take the edge off of the sweetness.  In the end PHI ends up big, but not loud.  This rose is no wallflower, but she’s demure enough to be a bit coy.

From Tauer Perfumes:

HEAD NOTES: Phi starts with a rich fruity line of apricot. An all natural apricot extract with its surprising richness enchants and blends into a cinnamon line and hints of bitter almond, softened by bergamot essential oil.

HEART NOTES: These spices lead over to voluptuous roses in the fragrance heart: Extremely rare rose essential oil with its unique scent of spices, plums and flower petals blends into rose absolute from Bulgaria and hints of Bourbon geranium. The rose petals melt on the skin into a dark tobacco fond, built around an amazing absolute of dried tobacco leaves.

BODY NOTES: The animalic, leathery and woody tobacco opens the ground for a generously dosed layer of patchouli in the base of Phi. Here, woody and gourmand notes melt into hints of animalic lines. Vetiver, vanilla and tonka add richness and brilliance. A generous dose of exclusive musk and amber gris round the body of the fragrance and encircle the roses.

rose in a boxWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A rose inside a box.  As soon as you open the box, the beautiful aroma of the rose is unleashed as a wonderful fragrant present.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PHI – UNE ROSE DE KANDAHAR: complex, rich, journeyed

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PHI –  UNE ROSE DE KANDAHAR:  I Scent You a Day 

BOTTOM LINE:  PHI is one of Tauer Perfumes “Collectible” perfumes which means that product availability is tied specifically to access to the raw materials and as such, PHI is not guaranteed to be available at all times.  And note that at present, PHI can only be purchased exclusively from the Tauer Perfumes website.  So, if you want to experience this blooming rose, you may only have a limited time to do so.  Pre-orders are currently being taken for shipment sometime in mid-November.  That’s perfect timing for making this a Christmas rose!

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Nose:  Andy Tauer
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $141 for 50ml EdP, exclusively available from the Tauer Perfumes website


31 Comments

Noontide Petals by Tauer Perfumes

noontide petalsWHAT I SMELL:  Noontide Petals opens with seriously bright aldehydes and almost Pixy Stix like candied sweetened bergamot.  Finally, that bright opening which feels to me like temporary blindness when the sun is caught in your car’s rear view mirror, gives way to a creamy florals with ylang-ylang in the forefront.  After about 10 minutes or so, the various notes start to blend seamlessly with a warm sandalwood which deepens the fragrance into an all-encompassing well.  Added to the warm blend is a slight powder which give this an old-fashioned and classic feel.  In the end, Noontide Petals resides in this nice, even, warm and slightly powdered patchouli deliciousness.

From the Tauer Perfumes website:

Head Notes:  A glittering opening:  Bergamot, sparkling aldehydes softened by Bourbon geranium.

Heart Notes:  A seductive chord of bright petals: Finest rose, ylang, tuberose, jasmine.

Body Notes:  A supple and sensuous gleam:  Patchouli, frankincense, vanilla, sandalwood, iris, with a hint of styrax and vetiver.

1962bagflowersWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  1962

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE NOONTIDE PETALS:  nostalgic, warm, classic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NOONTIDE PETALS: I Scent You a Day, Chemist in a Bottle, I Smell Therefore I Am

BOTTOM LINE:  I was worried that I would never find an Andy Tauer fragrance that I liked.  What I have sampled thus far has been challenging at best.  Noontide Petals breaks that mold and I could seriously see myself with a full bottle in the future.  Thanks Andy!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Floral Aldehyde
  • Nose:  Andy Tauer
  • Classification: Unisex – but leans feminine
  • Expense:  $120 for 50ml EdT


18 Comments

Orange Star by Tauer Perfumes

WHAT I SMELL:  Orange Star goes on sharp.  It’s orange, but not a juicy kind of succulent orange, but more of an orange that was dunked in floor cleaner or some other kind of petroleum product.  I can’t say that it’s sweet, nor can I say that it’s sour.  It’s just very artificial.  Some of the sharpness disappears in the dry down but then the patchouli comes out.  I never was a fan of patchouli oil, but have found that in the right compositions it can really be lovely.  In this case, it’s very “hippy” patchouli.  This is a strong scent with a mind of its own.  I see this as a scent that would be favored by girls aged 15 to 20.

Orange Star Notes:  clementine, red mandarine, lemongrass essential oil, orange flower, violet flower, ambergris, vanilla, patchouli, ambreine

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: For some odd reason this to me smells like 1970. There is a real artificiality about Orange Star. And for those of who can remember 1970, our environment was made up of Naugahyde couches, mounds of Tupperware and just a ton of things made out of plastic.  It was not an era for natural products.  Orange Star reminds of old beauty parlors and old grocery stores where clerks actually rung up items that had price stickers on them.  I have to say that I have not experienced a scent that sends me back to another time like this one does.  Now, I have good memories from childhood and those images cited above aren’t bad things, but they’re not something that I want to smell like.  Not in the least.

The Brady Bunch House

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ORANGE STAR:  artificial, manufactured, thick

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ORANGE STAR: The following are some other reviews on Orange Star:  The Candy Perfume Boy, London Makeup Girl, Now Smell This

  • Bone Rating: 2 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $135 for 50ml EDP