review | The Scented Hound

January 27, 2015
by The Scented Hound 3 Comments

Bois 1920 Vetiver Ambrato

WHAT I SMELL: Vetiver Ambrato opens with bergamot, warmed cloves and spiced geranium; it’s very cozy and rather masculine. After a couple of minutes, the fragrance becomes almost mentholated as the lavender and vetiver blend into an amber finish with just a slight sour touch of patchouli. There’s a tobacco that makes its way into the mix and a mild booziness and a bit of finished old world leather. After 15 minutes, the fragrance lightens and become more powdery as a light vanilla adds just the right amount of sweetness without adding any heaviness. In the end, the Bois 1920 is a powdered dusting of comfort.

From the Bois 1920 website:

Elegantly and profoundly seductive.

An absolutely masculine perfume that embodies all the power and mystery of modern man.

These suggestions of the fragrant architecture of an eau de toilette make their debut with sparkling, tonic notes towards a warm and spicy middle note to conclude with a virile, provocative top note that surprises again and again.

Top: Bergamot, Lemon, Petitgrain, Cloves, Geranium, Artemisia
Heart: Patchouly, Lavender, Vetyver, Sandalwood, Cedarwood
Dry down: Tobacco leaves, Musk, Amber, Vanilla, Benzoin, Labdanum, Galbanum

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Your grandfathers favorite chair at the cabin at the lake; it’s worn and comfy and smells of pipe, wood and lots of wonderful living.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE VETIVER AMBRATO: comfy, easy-going, secure

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VETIVER AMBRATO: NotableScents, ChickenFreak’s Obsession

BOTTOM LINE: This is a vetiver scent that’s not all about vetiver and it’s an amber scent that’s not all about amber. What you get is a nice combination of muted qualities from both. So if you don’t like truly green vetiver fragrances or heavy and brown amber scents, this might be just the right fragrance for you!

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Woody
Nose: Enzo Galardi
Classification: Unisex, but leans masculine
Expense: Varies greatly per store or site. Eau de Toilette.

January 23, 2015
by The Scented Hound 5 Comments

Gucci Guilty Pour Homme

WHAT I SMELL: Gucci Guilty opens with skin bracing bergamot and citrus laden lavender (thankfully the lavender is light). Within a few minutes there’s a sugared layer of wood and patchouli added to the mix. At this point, Gucci Guilty is rather buoyant, refreshing and very accessible. After around 5 minutes, the sugared aspects begin to disappear and the fragrance flattens and becomes more woody and a bit salty, which is a nice touch as it makes the scent feel more part of your body than something that’s just sitting above it. I was expecting Gucci Guilty to be big and in your face. Instead, it’s surprisingly muted and understated making it very easy to wear.

From the Gucci website:

a contemporary fougère fragrance
top notes of lavender and lemon
heart note of orange flower
base notes of cedar wood and patchouli

Easy Living

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Living in uncomplicated ease.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE GUCCI GUILTY: easy, understated, unremarkable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GUCCI GUILTY: Now Smell This, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE: With a name like “Guilty,” one would expect a fragrance that is decadent to say the least. In spite of its name, Gucci Guilty is about a harmless as a kitten. For a men’s fragrance, it’s OK as there is nothing unique about it which is too bad, because the opening starts off rather promising. But in the end, you’re left with a pretty quiet perfume that’s “just nice.”

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Aromatic Fougere
Nose: Jacques Huclier
Classification: Masculine
Expense: Varies. $62 for 50 ml Eau de Toilette

January 19, 2015
by The Scented Hound 15 Comments

Vintage Chanel No. 19 Parfum

WHAT I SMELL: Chanel No. 19 opens with a brilliant rush of green, with hints of civet. It’s breathtakingly beautiful, vibrant while topped with sparkling powder. Soon enough a woodiness blends into a mossy dryness as the perfume pulsates off the skin. This is refined sexuality in a bottle with radiant but muted florals on top of a vetiver and oakmoss base and what seems to be a bit of dusty leather. As pretty as Chanel No. 19 is I do find that there’s a darkness that lurks at the base of the perfume that provides a serious and in-charge aura of control. As beautiful as this is, Chanel No. 19 is to me, a refined feminine butch perfume.

From the Chanel website:

Gabrielle Chanel’s signature scent, named for her August 19th birthdate. A rich blend of floral and green notes, followed by May Rose and Iris from Florence. The finale: a hint of Chypre with a subtle, woody Vetiver note. In parfum form, the most powerful, long-lasting concentration of fragrance.

Top notes: galbanum, neroli, bergamot
Heart notes: jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris
Base notes: vetiver, sandalwood, leather, musk

Jackie Onassis & Lee Radziwelll circa 1970

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The antithesis of the late 60s early 70s hippie.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHANEL NO. 19: dusty, sophisticated, intoxicating

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHANEL NO. 19: Perfume Shrine, Bois de Jasmin, Yesterday’s Perfume

BOTTOM LINE: Sometimes conveying a perfume in words is next to impossible. Chanel No. 19 is one of those perfumes for me as it defies my interpretation. I will say however that the picture of Jackie and Lee is perfect for this perfume as I can see both of them lounging in their NY apartments talking, smoking and cocktailing it up wearing this timeless classic.

Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Chypre
Nose: Henri Robert
Classification: Feminine – but easily worn by a man.
Expense: Varies. Review based on vintage the parfum extrait version.