review | The Scented Hound

January 6, 2016
by The Scented Hound 2 Comments

Polianthes by Bottega Profumiera

WHAT I SMELL: Polianthes’ opening is soft and creamy and highlighted by a lightly spicy mentholated tuberose. There’s an underlying candied aspect from the tiare flower that adds a light spun sugar or cotton candy dimension to the perfume. After a few minutes, a woody note comes forward which decreases the light sweetness. Though full of projection, the perfume itself is not heavy nor dense. Instead, the perfume seems to hover above the skin. But as soon as I write that, I find a rather creamy buttery note comes forward that brings the perfume back to earth and what was light and ethereal now becomes a sheen of buttery vanilla tuberose with a curiously dry undertone. Here the perfume gracefully resides in its dry down. A rather lady-like, but secure, existence at that.

From the Bottega Profumeira website:

Polianthes Tuberose or in common name from Latin “Tuberosa” is the note that gives name to this perfume. “Sexy”, “heady”, “sultry”, “carnal” are the sorts of descriptions that are typically applied to tuberose perfumes, but in this case I add also “soft”, “reflective”, “independent”, “strong” like a complete woman is. All these peculiarities are in every woman and I tried to put all these facets in a single perfume. There is no sensuality without intelligence, there is no passion without strength, there is no love without independence… So the opulent white flowers of tuberose, thiaré, gardenia, jasmin match together with the solid notes of vetiver, sandalwood, teakwood…

Notes: thiaré, tuberose, gardenia, ylang-ylang, jasmin, benzoin, frankincense, amber, vanilla, teakwood, vetiver, sandalwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The taming of the tuberose tiger.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE POLIANTHES: secure, buttery, harnessed

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT POLIANTHES: Chemist in the Bottle, BL’eauOG

BOTTOM LINE: Polianthes is the tuberose perfume for those who don’t want their tuberose to completely overwhelm or dominate. Instead it politely takes its place where it’s lovely presence is noticeable, without being overbearing.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Maurizio Lembo
Classification: Unisex, but leans feminine
Expense: $150 for 100ml Eau de Parfum (plus 30ml travel refill)

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary

December 21, 2015
by The Scented Hound 5 Comments

Rose of No Man’s Land by Byredo

WHAT I SMELL: Rose of a No Man’s Land opens with a sweet and citrus candied rose that sparkles with a refreshing and dewy and slightly “bathtastic” glow. The perfume goes on clean, fresh and pretty without being too girly as there is a heftiness to the rose that is topped by a lightly jammy raspberry. After a few minutes, the sparkling fruitened rose is met with a warm and radiant amber with just a hint of light spice. The perfume remains clean and fresh, but much more tame as it feels as if it begs to exist quietly rather than be pushed to the forefront in a noticeable way. After another 10 minutes, a layer of suede pulls itself over the composition. I really like the perfume at this point as the combination of rose and leather pulls the fragrance in and out of the masculine and feminine. After a few more minutes, the suede begins to fade and the rose begins to grow and project. Rose of a No Man’s Land is a comfort scent that wraps itself around the wearer with a clean, warm easy to wear rose.

From the Byredo website:

Rose of No Man’s Land is a tribute to the nurses (often referred to by soldiers as “Rose of No-Man’s Land”) who saved thousands of lives on the front lines of WWI, their story is one of selflessness and compassion.

Top notes are pink pepper and turkey red rose; middle notes are turkey red rose and raspberry bloom; base notes are papyrus and white amber.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: An Angora sweater…not heavy, rather fluffy, and all comfort.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ROSE OF A NO MAN’S LAND: easy, comfortable, clean

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ROSE OF A NO MAN’S LAND: EauMG, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE: The opening of the perfume is divine…very fresh and full of life and the perfume matures beautifully and is lovely. Actually, what I like about it best is that it doesn’t scream to be noticed but instead quietly does its job in a very unassuming way.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Spicy
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $145 for 50ml Eau de Parfum

December 2, 2015
by The Scented Hound 3 Comments

Beaufort London East India

WHAT I SMELL: East India opens with a rush of cardamom and sharp black pepper which is quickly met with a moistened burnt wood, like a campfire that has just been extinguished by water. The perfume feels as if it has been aged in an oak cask like a fine liquor waiting to be released only until the peak of perfection. And soon enough, that characteristic is met with a combination of light dry whiskey mixed with a very organic tobacco. There’s nothing sweet about the perfume, but a light leather and oak stained tobacco give a slight impression that there is a semi-sweetness lurking in the recesses of the cask. As the perfume develops, it starts to dry out and the burnt birch really takes hold in addition to a slightly soured oud that wafts in on top of this increasingly large plume of smoke. Thankfully, the smokiness begins to recede and mellow to more of a burnt hue. In the end, East India mellows to a very comforting dry and slightly mysterious smoky wood.

East India Notes:

Cardamom, Black Pepper, Tea Leaf, Whisky, Incense, Opium, Tobacco, Birch, Oud

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A trading ship full of the never before seen exotic and magical spices, liquors and tobaccos from the Far East.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE EAST INDIA: masculine, adventurous, smoke-swept

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT EAST INDIA: The Black Narcissus, Fashion for Lunch, The Grooming Guide

BOTTOM LINE: One of three perfumes in the “Come Hell or High Water” collection, East India captures the majesty and mystery of the high seas and the adventure that came with exploring the Far East. The perfume goes on strong, but then mellows to a smoky haze. But because of the smokiness, it’s probably not best suited for the office. However, after hours, it would work well for making some of your own swashbuckling adventures.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody Oriental
Classification: Leans masculine
Expense: $140 for 50ml Eau de Parfum. Available at Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.