The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Maison Francis Kurkdjian – Aqua Celestia Cologne forte

WHAT I SMELL:  Aqua Celestia Cologne forte’s first spritz is a very fresh sparkling bergamot that’s fizzy and lightly sweet and tart at the same time.  Quickly, a blackberry note joins the bergamot, or I should say, sits on top of the bergamot because it feels layered as if they’re part of a fruit parfait.  The perfume is clean and bright, so much so that even if you were a little sweaty and hot from the day, the perfume would make you feel like you just stepped out of the shower.  The blackberry note continues to grow as the bergamot begins to fade into the background.   As the bergamot recedes, a fruit infused jasmine highlighted by peach comes in to take its place.  The fruit is bright and just so slightly juicy, but not enough to add any weight to the perfume.  As it continues to develop, a sandalwood pencil shaving note appears adding just the right amount of depth to bring this light and bright beauty back to the earth.  In the end, Aqua Celestia Cologne forte rests in a wonderfully light musky floral haze that’s ever so easy to love and easy to wear.

From the Maison Francis Kurkdjian website:

The bergamot becomes tinged with the fruity notes of blackcurrant, mimosa (with its raspberry and blackberry facets), and jasmine (strawberry, apricot and peach accents), before gradually melting into the mellowness of a fruity musky accord. Aqua Celestia Cologne forte releases a bright, crystal-clear aura and offers a flight towards the horizon.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Picking berries in the cool sweet morning air.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AQUA CELESTIA COLOGNE FORTE:  pretty, delightful, refreshing

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AQUA CELESTIA COLOGNE FORTE:  Contents

BOTTOM LINE:  The great thing about the Maison Francis Kurkdjian perfumes is that they are so easy to wear and many have this crisp clean finish that is impossible not to like.  Aqua Celestia Cologne forte (which is an eau de parfum) is no exception.

Aqua Celstica Cologne forte was released this year along with two other perfumes for a trio of Cologne fortes.  The following are my abbreviated impressions of the other two in the collection:

Aqua Vitae Cologne forte:  An inviting perfume that is perfectly delightful with the prettiest of florals that are topped with a mandarin orange.  I would call this a warm perfume that would be perfect for wearing even in the heat of summer.  Another 4 bones from me as it’s really lovely.

Aqua Universalis Cologne forte:  To me, this is the least interesting of the three perfumes.  Comprised of citrus and white muted flowers, it’s not bright, nor pretty, but rather salty and musky.  3 bones.

Samples courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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Sultan Pasha Attars: Chypre Chrysantheme

WHAT I SMELL:  Chypre Chrysantheme opens with a citrus blend that ebbs and tides off of the skin with the lemon verbena becoming more prominent as the florals dance in the background.  The soft and lively florals are indistinguishable at this point as they continue to whirl over a lightly powdered oakmoss.  However, it’s not too long before a rose begins to bloom.  It’s slightly metallic and it demands attention.  What’s really interesting is that at this point the various components in the perfume bounce in a kinetic energy as if the fragrance had been bottled before it had a chance to settle.  And that just makes the perfume that more interesting and exciting as you just don’t know what to expect next.  As the perfume continues to develop, a base layer that is thickened with beeswax appears and it seems to be infused with just the slightest of of smoke and honey.  Here the perfume begins to settle and the kinetic energy makes way for a smooth wave of florals.  And when I say wave, it does feel as if they glide in over the beeswax in waves.  The chrysanthemum absolute at this point is front and center and it’s beyond gorgeous.  But in all, the florals are warm and thickened with just the right amount of muted sweetness.  After quite some time, the sweetness begins to settle into a deepened state and a spiced note attaches itself to the florals making the perfume a bit more mysterious.  And it’s here where the perfume rests; soft, but not quiet with just the right amount of mystery for the perfect state of grace.

I should note that every time I wear Chypre Chrysantheme it projects differently each time and new facets seem to come forward depending on the temperature, humidity and possibly even my mood.  And that makes the perfume even that more interesting and special.

Notes from the Sultan Pasha website:

Top:  Lime, Lemon, bergamot, Lemon Verbena, Rosa Alba Otto, jasmine Absolute,

Middle:  Chrysanthemum Absolute, hyacinth accord, Damascena Rose Absolute, Centifollia Rose Absolute, lily of the valley accord, Coffee absolute, Clary sage, honey absolute. 

Base:  Oakmoss, tonka absolute, Civet, white ambergris, beeswax, aged patchouli, musk, labdanum, Madagascan vanilla, Siamese benzoin, Seaweed Absolute, styrax, castoreum, olibanum, Sandalwood Mysore, bourbon Vetiver and much, much more 

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The mystery of the chrysanthemum.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHYPRE CHRYSANTHEME: energizing, inviting, divine

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHYPRE CHRYSANTHEME:  CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Sultan Pasha has a gift from the gods.  The beauty that emanates from his perfumes is pure grace.  I’ve never really thought about chrysanthemum as a perfume note, but here it is and it’s beyond sublime.  Yes, I know I’m gushing, but I can’t help but not.

  • Bone Rating:  5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental
  • Nose: Sultan Pasha
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Starting at approximately $65 for 1 ml perfume oil via the Sultan Pasha website.


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Sarah Baker Perfumes – Bascule

SB BasculeWHAT I SMELL:   Bascule opens with a buzzing bergamot that is quickly met with a weighted ripened peach and a soft, but soured leather.  The perfume is not sweet, nor juicy, but is more dried and grassy as it begins to project.  It’s as if it resides in a wind swept field that holds sun dried orchard fruit.  You immediately take notice that Bascule is a perfume that is not rooted in the city.  And as such, even if you’re an urban dweller that never travels outside the city limits, you’ll be immediately transported to the countryside.  As the perfume continues to develop, a green note comes forward, but the perfume remains in the dry realm, but the green makes the perfume feel a bit lighter and more approachable and carefree.  Here the perfume remains, nicely green with a dried soft leather on top of a hay accord with tufts of tobacco.  It’s just the right amount of earthy countryside for even the most confirmed city slicker.

From the Sarah Baker Perfumes website:

Horses, hay and leather. The sun-ripened notes of succulent fruit, woods and prominent green notes amidst a notable bass of earthy tones and noblesse oblige. Equestrian.

Notes: grass, peach, bergamot, lily of the valley, hay, leather accord, vetiver, amber, musk, fir, tobacco, metal tack.

windswept grassy hillWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A windswept grassy hill.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE BASCULE:  green, earthy, unique

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BASCULENotetaking, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  Bascule is wonderfully unique and I was surprised at just how green it becomes in the drydown.  The green dried grass with just the hint of leather transports the wearer to the country in the most wonderful of ways.  Nice job Sarah Baker!

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Leather
  • Nose: Ashley Eden Kessler
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $95 for 50 ml eau de parfum