The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Iskander by Parfum d’Empire

Inspired by australianperfumejunkies review of some of the Parfum d’Empire line today, I decided to pull out some of my untested samples and give it a go.  Since summer is approaching, I thought I would try Iskander.  Lemony, citrus freshness in an initial blast, bright and sunny are how I would describe my first impressions with the scent.  There initially is almost a barber shop clean aspect to the Iskander.  Now I’m not typically a fan of citrus scents so I wonder if I’m going to like Iskander.  I find then that the initial citrus blast dissapates and out comes a very light spice, maybe the coriander?.  But I don’t consider this a spicy scent by any means. The fragrance soon mellows into a lovely warm, yet fresh, citrus, amber and oakmoss scent which evens out the initial sharpness of the scent.  The is an underlying tonality in this fragrance which is similar to the other Parfum d’Empire scents that I have tested; it’s a smooth and silky finish that I find incredibly luxurious. It sits at the scent’s base tying in all of the ingredients for a layer that blends so well on the skin.  I don’t know what this is, but so far the Parfum d’Empires scents that I have tried all are equaled in their beauty even though they are composed so differently.  I’m not sure yet, but I believe that Iskander might just be my 2012 summer scent.

Iskander Notes:

citron, mandarin, grapefruit, estragon, coriander, orange blossom, oakmoss, amber and musk

UPDATE:  Iskander got to me, I had to buy a full bottle!

  • Bone Rating:   4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent Type:  Citrus – Chypre
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense: $75 for 50ml EDP


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LP No:9 for Men by Penhaligon’s

I love the LP No:9 (Love Potion Number 9) name.  I like the fragrance.  Clean, fresh and spicy is how I would characterize LP No:9.  This is the first Penhaligon’s scent that I have tested, and I’m assuming that my thoughts about LP No:9 is how I’ll feel about this line.  LP No:9 is complex in its composition, but somehow that complexity doesn’t translate to having a great deal of depth.  It’s nice and somewhat old school, but in the end just not that exciting to me.  Bottom line:  fresh floral and spice, sophisticated and easy to wear.

From the Penhaligon’s website:

HEAD NOTES
Mandarin, Bergamot and Rosewood

HEART NOTES
Jasmine, Orris, Rose, Ylang Ylang, Clove, Cinnamon, Pepper and Nutmeg

BASE NOTES
Vanilla, Patchouli, Musk and Amber

Created in 1999, LP No. 9 for Men casts a spell of powdered darkness with its complex heart of ylang-ylang and spices. The fresh top notes of mandarin, bergamot and rosewood soon give way to the unusual floral and spiced heart. The seductive base notes are led by sweet vanilla and earthy patchouli with whisps of musk and amber creating sensual layers of warmth and mystery.

  • Bone Rating:   3 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent Type:  Oriental – Spicy
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense: $120 for 100ml EDT


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Musc Ravageur by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

So what’s all the fuss about?  Musc Ravageur is a fragrance that evokes the either “I love it” or “I hate it” responses by those who have tried it.  It’s also one of those fragrances that have been described as dirty, sexy, sensual (and many other things in which I won’t go into detail).  Of course, given the discourse and the descriptors I too had to give this a try.  And I can see what everybody is talking about.  The first thing that comes to mind when I put this on is the phrase “plastics are the wave of the future!”  There is truly an artificial plastic petroleum aspect to this scent.  It’s heavy and it’s a heaviness that fills up your lungs.  Musc Ravageur starts with a bitch slap to the senses.  It’s moist and musky with hints of vanilla.  As the slow dry down takes place, out comes more of a warmed peppered base.  It mellows ever so slightly but not enough to take away it’s oomph.  I would have a hard time seeing a woman pull this one off, because I think of this really as a man’s fragrance because of its heaviness.  In going back and reading what I have written so far, you would think that I don’t like this.  Wrong.  I love it.  It’s a fragrance that gives you power.  There is nothing shy about Musc Ravageur, so much so that this may have to go on my wish list for a full bottle.

From the Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle website:

Sensual and sophisticated. Powerful yet perfectly controlled. Dramatic and mysterious. MUSC RAVAGEUR is a grown-up perfume, an uncompromising Oriental, which trumps current fads. Its explosive departure of bergamot, tangerine and cinnamon is set against a lusty backdrop of vanilla, musk and amber. No flowers, just a refined and exalted skin scent.

  • Bone Rating:   5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent Type:  Oriental
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense: $165 for 50ml EDP