The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.

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Raw Spirit – Bijou Vert by Nomad Two Worlds

bijouvert_large2WHAT I SMELL: Bijou Vert opens with a sweet citrus mixed with a warm floral on top of a tangy vetiver base.  The sharp edges that sometimes come with vetiver are smoothed and rounded with an undertone of a layered warmth.  The fragrance seems to radiate of my skin like sunshine.  After about 20 minutes or so, a woodiness comes into effect, but thankfully that sweet and sparkling top layer refuses to go away!  After that, just sit back and enjoy the fragrance.  Bijou Vert isn’t complicated, but it’s wonderfully easy.

From the Nomad Two Worlds website:

RAW SPIRIT – BIJOU VERT (“Green Jewel”) was inspired by Haiti, the Caribbean isle once known as the “Jewel of the Antilles”.

This is an elegant and uplifting vetiver fragrance, featuring premium Haitian vetiver, grapefruit, mandarin, geranium, lotus flower, black pepper, benzoin, patchouli and cedarwood.

Radiant-GreenWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  radiant vetiver

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BIJOU VERT: uplifting, positive, comforting

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BIJOU VERT:  No reviews found thus far.

BOTTOM LINE:  I often have problems with vetiver fragrances, but Bijou Vert is a lightly sweeter and softer vetiver which I find to my liking.  No, it’s not earth shattering, but it is reasonably priced and it comes in a smaller size.  Plus, buying it gives back to the planet.  How’s that possible?  Because part of the fragrance proceeds will be used to support sustainable Haitian agricultural projects in conjunction with the Nomad Two Worlds corporate socially responsible business mission.  For more information on the objectives and goals of Nomad Two Worlds, check out their website and their other fragrance and product offerings.


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Finisterre & Noir Tropical by Maria Candida Gentile

finis-picFINESTERRE – 

WHAT I SMELL:  Finisterre has bergamot opening which quickly becomes salty and marine like.  The projection is light, airy and fresh.  After around the 10 minute mark a slight pine emerges along with a light sweetness combined with a dash of pepper.  After the 30 minute mark, Finisterre adds just a hint of sandalwood to give it a light base, but overall the fragrance is pretty linear.

Finisterre notes:

Top Notes: marine accord

Heart Notes: heliochrsyum ( in the sunflower family) and pine

Base Notes: grey amber, sandalwood

clotheslineWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Laundry hanging on a clothes line drying in an ocean breeze.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE FINISTERRE:  fresh, easy, simple

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT FINISTERRE:  CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Finisterre’s uncomplicated nature is its strength.  This is an easy wear that would help you strip away the worries and burdens of the day.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Marine
  • Nose:  Maria Candida Gentile
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $185 for 100ml EdP

noir-tropical2NOIR TROPICAL – 

WHAT I SMELL:  Noir Tropical goes on lightly sweet and it’s a bit boozy with rum and honey.  But unlike other boozy fragrances, Noir Tropical remains light rather than heavy.  It’s really juicy and gourmand, but the projection at the beginning is so low that you almost wonder if you have any fragrance on.  After a couple of minutes, a sweetened almond and vanilla accord comes in.  But again, it’s not heavy, but rather light and airy.  After around 20 minutes or so, the vanilla begins to project.  Noir Tropical then remains a sweetened vanilla scent that moves in whiffs of air rather than larger wafts.

Noir Tropical notes:

Top Note: bergamot

Heart Note: almond accord

Base Notes: vanilla and rum

EveningBreeze(sepia)WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A soft evening breeze in the South Seas carrying a light and luscious sweet scent through the air.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE NOIR TROPICAL:  seductive, sweet, semi-boozy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NOIR TROPICAL:  CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  The lighter projection of Noir Tropical is perfect since the fragrance is relatively sweet.  More oomph in the scent could have made this obnoxious.  As it is, it teases you with its sweet and seductive presence.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Nose:  Maria Candida Gentile
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $185 for 100ml EdP


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PHI – une rose de Kandahar by Tauer Perfumes

PHIFlaconWHAT I SMELL: PHI goes on with a rather flattened apricot with tinges of cinnamon and almond.  It’s kind of a muted sweetness in that when you smell it, it seems layered with the cinnamon hovering on top.  At this point, I’m thinking PHI is nice (nice = just OK), rather personal and relatively close to the skin, and more apricot than rose which I think is a bit strange.  Then at about the 10 to 15 minute mark, the rose begins to bloom.  And bloom it does.  It’s like the rose suddenly opens its petals and unleashes its glorious fragrance.  I don’t think I have ever experienced a rose fragrance that literally unfolds on my skin that way PHI does and I love it.  The rose is rounded and deep, and to me more masculine than feminine and rather gourmand.  But wait, we’re not done yet, after some more time, the rose becomes creamy.  Still further, PHI reveals its patchouli, making the fragrance a bit sweeter and more heady as its mixed with vanilla and amber gris.  Hours later, add in some tonka for a bit of a growl that helps to take the edge off of the sweetness.  In the end PHI ends up big, but not loud.  This rose is no wallflower, but she’s demure enough to be a bit coy.

From Tauer Perfumes:

HEAD NOTES: Phi starts with a rich fruity line of apricot. An all natural apricot extract with its surprising richness enchants and blends into a cinnamon line and hints of bitter almond, softened by bergamot essential oil.

HEART NOTES: These spices lead over to voluptuous roses in the fragrance heart: Extremely rare rose essential oil with its unique scent of spices, plums and flower petals blends into rose absolute from Bulgaria and hints of Bourbon geranium. The rose petals melt on the skin into a dark tobacco fond, built around an amazing absolute of dried tobacco leaves.

BODY NOTES: The animalic, leathery and woody tobacco opens the ground for a generously dosed layer of patchouli in the base of Phi. Here, woody and gourmand notes melt into hints of animalic lines. Vetiver, vanilla and tonka add richness and brilliance. A generous dose of exclusive musk and amber gris round the body of the fragrance and encircle the roses.

rose in a boxWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A rose inside a box.  As soon as you open the box, the beautiful aroma of the rose is unleashed as a wonderful fragrant present.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PHI – UNE ROSE DE KANDAHAR: complex, rich, journeyed

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PHI –  UNE ROSE DE KANDAHAR:  I Scent You a Day 

BOTTOM LINE:  PHI is one of Tauer Perfumes “Collectible” perfumes which means that product availability is tied specifically to access to the raw materials and as such, PHI is not guaranteed to be available at all times.  And note that at present, PHI can only be purchased exclusively from the Tauer Perfumes website.  So, if you want to experience this blooming rose, you may only have a limited time to do so.  Pre-orders are currently being taken for shipment sometime in mid-November.  That’s perfect timing for making this a Christmas rose!

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Nose:  Andy Tauer
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $141 for 50ml EdP, exclusively available from the Tauer Perfumes website