The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Where in the World is The Scented Hound?

Greetings from Mexico.  So you may say to yourself that you’ve seen these greetings before….so you’re on vacation.  Actually, this time it’s a bit different; we have moved to Mexico!  After talking about this for several years, we finally executed our long thought out plan to start a new life and adventure.  This past spring, we put our house on the market, had an estate sale getting rid of 80% of our possessions, sold both of our cars, moved into temporary housing and quit our jobs (we are now retired).  Finally, last month we packed up our 2 furry kids and flew down with 2 suitcases each to start our new life in Merida.  The past 6 months seem like a blur at this point and to be honest, it kind of feels like we’re just on vacation as it really hasn’t sunk in that we’re retired.  But after all the craziness, it’s nice to have some down time and frankly we’re rather exhausted!

So what does this mean for The Scented Hound?  I’m not sure at this point how this blog will morph and develop; but it will.  We’re living in temporary housing right now so I don’t have a permanent address.  And I’ve heard that getting packages here in the country can be a bit tricky, so I’m not sure how I’ll get my hands on new releases, etc.  That may take some time.  Additionally, I’ve found that perfume in a hot tropical environment wears much differently and anything that seems to have any heft (orientals, etc.) just becomes incredibly cloying and heavy.  And those that do wear well, seem to disappear very quickly.  Maybe once I get used to the heat, I’ll get this dilemma settled.  Or maybe I’ll just have to ensure that I test perfumes in an air-conditioned environment.  Additionally, I don’t believe that niche perfume is very prevalent down here.  But maybe that makes for a business opportunity??!  In any case, now that I’m retired I’ll have time to work this all out.

So with the move, out of all the things that needed to be done, there were two items that really stressed me out.  The first was getting the cats down here.  We had to ensure that they were certified by our veterinarian 10 days before departure.  We had heard horror stories of people getting down here only to have their pets put in quarantine for weeks because they didn’t have the right health certifications.  Thankfully, both kids managed their flight without issue and the customs inspectors were nothing but nice.  They’re still not thrilled with their new digs (the housecleaner is here as I write and they are not happy), but they’re adjusting as well as can be expected.

The other thing that gave me lots of anxiety was how to move my perfume collection.  Now, I have to admit that my collection is not huge (it can all fit on one gilded West Elm tray), but since we put all of our possessions that we were keeping in storage (could be up to 6 months) I couldn’t do that as they wouldn’t be temperature controlled.  Then I inquired into having them shipped down via DHL or some other service, but was told that they would be considered “dangerous goods” because they are flammable.  Thankfully, my brother and sister-in-law travel to Mexico and will plan on visiting us sometime this winter.  They said if we ship the perfumes to them, they’ll bring them down in their air-conditioned travel bus.  So we carefully packed up the perfumes and shipped them to Washington state (via UPS which was a no-no) and I am hoping that they’ll arrive safe and sound towards the end of the year.  I did manage to put at least 20 perfumes in my suitcase that were small and thanks to Undina they traveled without any issue.  So you ask, what did Undina do?  If it had not been for her post concerning how to seal perfumes with Parafilm, I don’t think my perfumes would have traveled nearly as well.  And BTW, on eBay you can purchase small amounts of Parafilm for a relatively small cost.   Trust me, it works well.

So in brief, that’s my story for now.  It’s an exciting time and I have no idea where this adventure is going to take us, but I’m sure it will be a fun journey!

For more information on securing your perfumes for shipping with Parafilm, check out Undina’s helpful post here.

Viva la Mexico!


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New Release: Arielle Shoshana Eau de Parfum

What’s the next thing you do after you’ve opened the first perfume shop dedicated to niche perfumery in the Washington DC area?  Well, if you’re the petite dynamo, Ari Weinberg, proprieter of Arielle Shoshana, you team up with perfumer Cécile Hua to create your very own branded perfume.

WHAT I SMELL:  Arielle Shoshana opens with a blend of zesty, fresh grapefruit and ripe passion fruit.   It’s citrusy (is that a word??), completely refreshing and applying it gives you the sensation as if you sprayed the most delightful summer cocktail on your skin.  After a bit, the initial zing of the perfume settles down, but the tangy and slightly sour fruity and citrus aspects still remain, as if the sun has evaporated the cool juice off of your skin.  At the same time, a very interesting cardamon note lurks underneath, giving it a more mysterious feel…almost as if the tangy and juicy passion fruit holds a bit of poison.  A dulled rhubarb note then arrives along with a slight soured sandalwood which gives the perfume a dimension of carnality.  In the end, the perfume quiets, but leaves and indelible wake of fruited passion.

From the Arielle Shoshana website:

Perfumer Cécile Hua used a proprietary CO2 extraction technique to create the first natural passion fruit extract in perfumery history. Cécile’s gorgeous passion fruit material was already practically a perfume in itself, but the unexpected tang of saffron elevates Arielle Shoshana Eau de Parfum into a fragrance worthy of the Arielle Shoshana mission statement: “fragrances as interesting as you are.” Sandalwood, ambroxan, and vanilla give the drydown fullness and warmth. 

Notes: Passion Fruit, Grapefruit, Rhubarb, Mandarin, Peach, Saffron, Pink Pepper, Cardamom, Magnolia, Sandalwood, Ambroxan, Vanilla, Vetiver Bourbon, Iris, Musk

Forbidden Fruit Dinner Party by Chris Antemann

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Forbidden fruit.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ARIELLE SHOSHANA EAU DE PARFUM:  zesty, refreshing, naughty

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ARIELLE SHOSHANA EAU DE PARFUM: Now Smell This, Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  Ari and Cécile have created a wonderful perfume as an initial launch for this brand.  It’s the perfect antidote for the hot summer months.  And even better, the perfume could have been a simple take on citrus and passion fruit, but instead there’s an added depth making it more interesting than a summer splash.  I have no doubt that this will be the debut perfume in the Arielle Shoshana line….with, many, many more to come.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Fruity
  • Nose: Cécile Hua
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $125 for 3.4 oz. eau de parfum via Arielle Shoshana.


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Vintage Guerlain L’Heure Bleue

WHAT I SMELL:  This particular vintage L’Heure Bleue (why do I say it that way?  you’ll see below) eau de toilette opens with a bright and sweet bergamot and spicy anise which first goes on cool to the touch, but then warms considerably and quickly.  It smells mysterious and serious and rather mature and slightly medicinal.  This is not your Britney Spears of perfumes, but is a perfume that instead dazzles and sings with wisdom and grace.  There’s not a great deal of development as the perfume settles in to reside in a floral meld with a spicy carnation and tuberose center that is dusted with a violet powder that wraps the perfume in mysterious wisdom.

The top notes are opening with spicy-sweet aniseed and fresh bergamot that gently lead to the heart of rose, carnation, tuberose, violet, and neroli. The soft and powdery floral notes are resting on a base of vanilla, Tonka bean, iris and benzoin.

Blue silk floral applique gown by Valentino.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A romantic blue silk evening gown.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’HEURE BLEUE:  mild, measured, solemn

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’HEURE BLEUE: Kafkasesque, Bois de Jasmin, Monsieur Guerlain

BOTTOM LINE:  The review above it based on a 1980s sample received from the wonderful Undina.  It’s bright, yet serious and very powdery.. and I love it.  I recently found a 1980s unopened EdT bottle on eBay for next to nothing.  The bright top notes seemed to have faded away and unlike the version I’m writing about, it’s pretty, but much darker has much more rounded florals.  It’s nice, but it doesn’t carry the fresh feel like the sample I reviewed.  Then a couple of weeks ago I was in an antique store and found this massive Bacarrat bottle (200 ml?) of extrait from the 1930s/40s.  There was a sale at the store and I got the 1/2 filled perfume bottle for a great price.  The stopper was stuck and thanks to Mr. Freezer, I was able to dive into this treasure.  Again, after all these years, the top notes have faded, but the heart is glorious, deep, rich and very serious.  So three different versions and 3 very different perfumes.  I have to say that the light and pretty 1980s version is a dream and probably my favorite of the three.  But overall, none of the versions project on my skin.  Maybe it’s me that’s the problem?

IMG_0799This story just keeps getting longer…so about a week after I started writing the above, I felt compelled to purchase a bottle of the current version in the eau de parfum formula.  A great price added with a coupon I couldn’t refuse right?  Actually, I wasn’t quite sure if I was going to like it… but to my surprise I adore it.  It’s not quite as sunny as the vintage Undina sample, but it’s lighter and sweeter than my vintage EdT and parfum.  There’s a little incense in it and a little powder as it’s completely understated.  But what it defined for me, is that no matter what formula the perfume is in…my skin just eats it up and that means it has a pretty short lifespan on me.  That’s unusual for me, but I’m OK with it because I love to slather myself in any and all versions.   BTW, the new EdP layered with my old vintage EdT is divine!

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose: Jacques Guerlain
  • Classification: Marketed as feminine but to me it’s very unisex
  • Expense: Prices vary for vintage versions, but the current EdP can be purchased for as low as $60 for 100 ml.