The Scented Hound

Abbreviated perfume & fragrance reviews from one man's perspective


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Roja Parfums Scandal Pour Homme Parfum Cologne

WHAT I SMELL:   Scandal Pour Homme Parfum Cologne isn’t quite scandalous as it opens, but it is rather uplifting with zesty bergamot, lemon and lavender with a perfect touch of spearmint.  Instead of being infused with juice, the perfume enters with a dryness that reminds me of an application of talc.  From first spritz, Scandal is a refined masculine scent and its herbal sweetness is incredibly magnetic.  As the perfume continues to develop, the dryness begins to lessen in order to allow for the most delicate of florals to begin to grace the skin.  Here, the mix of florals, with a quiet violet and rose being most prominent, make the perfume a bit brighter and more lighthearted.  Continuing on its journey, a woody vetiver rises to take its place at the heart of the perfume.  After some time, the perfume warms with a wonderful tonka bean and becomes ever so lightly sweet and sour.  Scandal is a traditional fougère with just the right amount of “twist.”

“When a scandal hits, heads turn and secrets unravel. Everything is exposed as barriers are pushed and limits are tested. You either hide, or embrace it. A true head-turner, Scandal opens with an exciting burst of Lemon, Spearmint and Lavender, which flirts with an unusual Rhubarb note spread across a rich and sensual bed woven around the indulgent nuances of Tonka Bean. Tempted to do something which causes a scandal, it ensures you are talked about.” – Roja Dove.

Scandal Olfactory Description:  Basil, Spearmint, Lavender, and Tarragon add their pronounced aromatic freshness to a medley of Bergamot, Lemon, and Petitgrain, then given touches of sweetness from a mix of Jasmine, Violet, Rose, and Lily of the Valley, warmed by Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Casmir Wood, Cardamom, Nutmeg, and Clove, held captive by Vetiver, Patchouli, and Mosses, with an unusual note of Rhubarb, on a sensual base of Ambergris, Musk, leather-like Labdanum, and Tonka Bean.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Alain Delon in ‘Plein Soleil’ (Purple Noon) 1960…rakishly handsome.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SCANDAL:  refined, self-assured, polished

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SCANDAL:  CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Roja Dove has mastered the quiet development in perfumes where the mix of ingredients unfolds in a graceful and easy way, and Scandal is no exception.  Roja Parfums has created the Parfum Cologne collection of five men’s fragrances with Scandal and Danger being the stars in my estimation, but all are fantastic in their own way.  Scandal is perfect in its modern nod to a vintage past.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Fougère
  • Nose:  Roja Dove
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense:  $290 for 100 ml parfum cologne


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Chanel PARIS-DEAUVILLE

WHAT I SMELL:  PARIS-DEAUVILLE greets the skin with a sun-kissed fresh orange that’s bright, light and juicy.  Rather quickly, the perfume warms to a delightful sunny white floral and a calming freshly cut basil.  The perfume is so fresh, so bright and so happy that it’s an immediate mood lifter.  The perfume doesn’t morph all that much, but it does warm and it radiates this incredible citrus green accord rounded off by a a softened jasmine and rose mix that bounces off of the skin.  In the end, PARIS-DEAUVILLE becomes a muted and slightly soapy version of the opening…a beautiful citrus and basil dream of a perfume tinged with the lightest of soft florals.

From the Chanel website:

THE INSPIRATION:  1913. Gabrielle Chanel opens her very first fashion boutique, choosing Deauville as the location. This destination marks the beginning of a simple, bold style that becomes iconic with the marinière striped shirt and tweed and jersey fabrics. Inspired by the peaceful landscapes along the Normandy coast, PARIS-DEAUVILLE transposes this bucolic charm to a fragrance of the open air.

Pairing the aromatic green facets of Basil with the sparkling top notes of Sicilian Orange, PARIS-DEAUVILLE reveals a lively, naturally radiant freshness.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A young and ever so pretty Cybill Shepherd; full of sunshine and promise.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PARIS-DEAUVILLE:  fresh, uncomplicated, clean

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PARIS-DEAUVILLE:  The Candy Perfume Boy, Colognoisseur, The Scented Salamander

BOTTOM LINE:  Chanel does easy to wear, fresh and clean better than most.  And PARIS-DEAUVILLE, which is part of the Les Eaux de Chanel collection, is just so delightful to wear because it doesn’t wear you.  The perfume is perfect for wearing while running errands as well as when dining out for the evening al fresco.   Thanks Chanel, for making me smell so fantastic and for lifting my spirits while doing so.

  • Bone Rating:  4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre
  • Nose:  Olivier Polge
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: $130 for 4.2 oz eau de toilette


4 Comments

Morning Chess – Vilhelm Parfumerie

WHAT I SMELL:  Morning Chess opens with a sparkling, yet muted bergamot that is soon met with a lightly sweetened leather.  Quickly a blackberry/currant note enters in the most ethereal way.  It’s light, doesn’t overpower and it’s completely dreamlike.  And gliding right behind the berries enters an evergreen note.  Here, the perfume feels like a warmed northern forest partially lit from the sun as it hits the top of the trees and the green grass that it manages to reach at the forest bottom below.  As it continues to develop, the green fir moves to the warmer with a low dose golden amber.  Here, the perfume feels like you’re in a warmed meadow at the edge of the forest where the smell of the fir lingers in the air.   In the end, the perfume dances between a berry like lightly sweet patchouli and the fir.  In all, the perfume maintains the lightest of touch and the fir notes stay muted in perfect harmony with the fruit and leather.  Morning Chess is an exceptional perfume with a Scandinavian sensibility…it’s simple, clean and perfectly peaceful.

From the Vilhelm Parfumerie website:

Bright endless mornings in a cottage, minds battling in wit over a chessboard: the memories of Jan’s summers shared with his grandfather. The ripe, green lushness of summer on the Swedish coast, where grassy notes are light enough to hint at the evergreen sharpness of the distant winter air.

Top:  Bergamot
Middle : Tuscan Leather, Galbanum
Base : Patchouli, Black Amber

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A dreamlike Swedish garden spot.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE MORNING CHESS:  calming, comforting, contented

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MORNING CHESSLife in a Cold Climate, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE:  The other morning I had applied Morning Chess before heading out of the house. When I came back hours later, I jumped in the pool to cool off.  In between my dozing on my float, I kept getting whiffs of the most beautiful lightly berried fir scent and wondered where it was coming from.  Finally, I realized that the incredibly pretty scent was coming from me.  The heat of the sun had pulled the perfume off of my skin and surrounded me in the most beautiful haze.  Not many perfumes can enrapture me in such a way.

* Sample provided by Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.