The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Papillon Artisan Perfumes – Hera

WHAT I SMELL:  Oh my; Hera opens up with a sweet orange blossom that quickly moves to a warmed jasmine and ylang, ylang.  It’s thick, rich, intoxicating and absolutely breathtaking.   From the beginning, Hera is beautifully all woman and has a persona that feels all-knowing with its golden glowing countenance.  As the perfume develops, the florals become more creamy as the Rose de Mai begins to bloom from the center.  The rose is rapturous without dominating and it helps to create a dream like aura in its wake.  After some more time, a hint of incense whispers in, but I am guessing its the narcissus that I am smelling vs. incense, but in any case it adds a dimension of mystery to this rapturous beauty.  In slow and graceful development, Hera begins to powder and dry and a wonderful oakmoss note appears.  And a bit later, the perfume once again becomes a bit more creamy with what seems to be a hint of violet.  Here, the perfume is so soft and enticing and lyrical in nature.  It’s strange, because Hera seems to quietly move, meld and morph at every slow turn so it’s quite hard to pinpoint any development in a chronological order.  And as a result, every time it’s worn it feels completely different, but no less beautiful.  Hera is a gift from the gods of which this mere mortal is not giving it justice in my description, because it’s just to hard to put rapturous beauty into adequate words.

From the Papillon Artisan Perfumes website:

The goddess of weddings, family and blessings, Hera possessed a majestic power. Here, she is celebrated in the opulence of orris and jasmine. Engulfed in flowers, you are invited by a burst of orange blossom, radiating a golden halo of warm white flowers. Delicate touches reveal a buttery, rich embrace. Rose de mai brings a whisper of drama and gentle musk offers a sensual caress for Gods and Goddesses alike. A bright and beautiful perfume, steeped in energetic luxury and effortless glamour.

Notes:  Jasmine. Orange Blossom. Ylang. Rose de Mai. Orris. Narcissus

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Perfectly named, Hera is indeed “Queen of the Gods.”

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE HERA:  glorious, captivating, breathtaking.

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HERA:  Bonkers About Perfume, CaFleureBon, Taking One Thing Off

BOTTOM LINE:  It’s not often enough these days that I am completely swept away by the beauty of a fragrance.  I find many that are wonderful and interesting, but not ones that immediately grab my soul.  Hera is a masterpiece.  And one reason why is that it seems to carry DNA from vintage Caron.  Hera at times reminds me greatly of the chypre mastery of Alpona, the thickened golden beauty of En Avion and the intoxicating florals of French Can Can.  I can’t stress enough that Hera is absolutely breathtaking.  My only dilemma is that since I live in Mexico I can’t purchase a bottle because it’s unavailable here (in stores and for shipping).  So until I travel to other lands, I will have to be patient, because Hera is a perfume that will be added to my collection without hesitation.

  • Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose: Liz Moores
  • Classification: Leans feminine, but I believe it’s easily unisex
  • Expense: $310 for 50ml parfum extrait


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Régime des Fleurs – Tears

WHAT I SMELL:  Tears opens with pink pepper and warmed orris and a light buzzing neroli and olibanum.  It feels like it’s wrapped up in a opaque greenish gauze that seems to wrap around ones self as a whole.  As the perfume continues to develop, the lightest of lilac appears within the gauze and it’s encompassed within the faintest of incense.  So in other words, the perfume is layered with the flowers in the center, followed by the gauze and then surrounded by the incense.  And to me, it’s heavenly.  After a bit more, what smells to me like sandalwood (though not listed within the official notes) begins to rest under the layers.   As such, it brings perfume to the ground and provides a beautiful aura of earthiness.  After quite some time, the lilac and rose break out and the perfume begins to powder and become lightly sweet.  This was unexpected as the perfume was really beginning to settle down.  But the breakout of the florals is pure joy.  After some more time, Tears once again settles quietly, but the florals remain as the centerpiece of this rather ethereal perfume.

From the Régime des Fleurs website:

Beauty moves the soul to tears

Lilacs, orris, olibanum, frankincense, fleur d’oranger, green cognac oil, rosewater, pink pepper, mandarin oil, ambergris

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Content kitty.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE TEARS:  soft, delightful, harmonious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TEARS:  No written reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Tears is a beautiful perfume that quietly wraps the wearer in a forcefield of comfort.  It’s a perfume that is for the wearer as it doesn’t project, but instead leaves a whisper of a trail behind it.  If I have one complaint, it’s that it disappears a little too quickly.  But that’s ok since it leaves a wonderful and lasting impression.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose:  Mathieu Nardin
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $225 for 75ml eau de parfum


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Vilhelm Parfumerie – London Funk

WHAT I SMELL:  London Funk opens with a fresh basil and bergamot with an interesting cardamom note that quickly slides right in.  It’s fresh and inviting and really full of life.  Soon, the perfume begins to warm and it feels like it’s beginning to sugar, like a concentrated sugar reduction as it’s not sweet, but rather vibrant and somewhat thick.  And a short while after, a little bit of the “funk” begins to roll in.  It’s just a slight undercurrent of something that I can’t distinguish that seems to be simmering under a woody note.  It’s not unpleasant, but it’s almost as if you smell a little something off under the outside decking of a local pub. By this time the initial top notes have made their way out of the door a woody vetiver has entered becoming the main attraction.  London Funk at this point really projects with hints of leather and herb (cannabis?) which seems to grow as I write.  But the perfume never gets too funky and instead rides this high impact and slightly bitter woody mix that seems very familiar without being able to exactly put your finger on it.  Overall, London Funk is a very tenacious perfume that keeps on giving for a very long time.

From the Vilhelm Parfumerie website:

The slap of a wood bat on a leather ball, followed by intense giggling and the sound of fabric rustling. It’s five o’clock at Biba in London and Jim Morrison is leading a young Debbie Harry astray with a Long Island Iced tea, and a game of cricket in the stock room. Can you smell all the possibilities that curled into a trippy London afternoon in the Seventies? They certainly could.

Top notes: Juniper, Basil, Cardamom, Bergamot.
Heart notes: Blackcurrant Bud, Driftwood.
Base notes: Vetiver, Yerba Maté, Cedarwood, Amber Gris, Sandalwood.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Like the back deck of the Atlanta Eagle bar.  A mix of wood, leather, beer, smoke, plastic, sweat, cologne and lots of other bar related smells.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE LONDON FUNK:  bold, vibrant, familiar (but how, I’m not sure)

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT LONDON FUNK:  No written reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  London Funk is more funky than funk.  In reading what I have written about “What I Smell” my descriptors are pretty obtuse.  But that’s because I find that London Funk is a perfume that’s hard to describe or categorize.  What it is however, is a perfume that is not for everyday use and I wouldn’t recommend it for the office.  It’s not that it’s not a pleasurable perfume, but as it has a large personality and I’m not sure one’s coworkers would appreciate it.  But as for a night on the town at your favorite club…absolutely!

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Woody Aromatic
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Starting at $90 for 20 ml eau de parfum