The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.

Tag Archives: Perfume Review


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Puredistance Rubikona

WHAT I SMELL:   Rubikona seems to glide on the skin with a warm, mysterious mandarin and a rather buttery grapefruit which is quickly met with the most creamy layer of florals that seems to pour out from an ancient vessel.  Intermixed, the florals seem to weave in and out, highlighted between a muted combination of rose and ylang-ylang.  The creaminess is incredibly unique and it makes you wish you could bathe in its silky beauty.  As the perfume continues to develop, a thin veneer of cloves begins to hover below the florals.  The cloves add just the right amount of mystery as the perfume begins to warm the creamy florals while it greets the addition of an unsweetened vanilla and tart patchouli.  Even though the perfume moves to this new stage in development, it continues to retain it’s creaminess as the perfume really begins to radiate.  Here, Rubikona will put anyone under her spell who falls in her wake as the perfume swirls and dives as it comes off of the skin.  As the perfume continues to develop, the creaminess begins to dissipate and the woody and slightly soured patchouli begins to intensify.  In the end, Rubikona radiates a soft, yet powerful aura of exotic mystery.  Rubikona is boldly beautiful and quietly commanding.

From the Puredistance website:

RU BI KO NA … Four distinct sounds that together form their own small symphony. Much like a perfectly cut RUBY that fascinates by the various shades of red and intensities of light. Puredistance Rubikona is a deep, warming perfume with a gracious, warm heart – safely embedded in deep blue satin. Elegance in every vein, in line with the sophisticated character of Puredistance. Rubikona is ‘Chic Inside Out’.

Top Notes – Grapefruit, Bergamot, Mandarin.

Circe, The Temptress – Charles Hermans

Middle Notes – Rose, Iris, Ylang, Clove, Orange blossom, Creamy notes.

Base Notes – Patchouli, Cedarwood, Vanilla, Solar notes, Musk.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The red temptress.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE RUBIKONA:  creamy, exotic, enticing

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RUBIKONA:  PerfumManiac, The Fragrant Journey, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Rubikona is an exotic beauty with a creamy heart that is beyond gorgeous.  I would say that the perfume is not oriented to being an everyday perfume, but instead should be released to entice during those evenings on the town…or maybe just when you’re trying to weave a spell on that special someone in your life.  

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental 
  • Nose:  Cecile Zarokian
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Starting at 175 Euros for 17ml parfum extrait (28% perfume oil).

 


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Maison Francis Kurkdjian – Aqua Celestia Cologne forte

WHAT I SMELL:  Aqua Celestia Cologne forte’s first spritz is a very fresh sparkling bergamot that’s fizzy and lightly sweet and tart at the same time.  Quickly, a blackberry note joins the bergamot, or I should say, sits on top of the bergamot because it feels layered as if they’re part of a fruit parfait.  The perfume is clean and bright, so much so that even if you were a little sweaty and hot from the day, the perfume would make you feel like you just stepped out of the shower.  The blackberry note continues to grow as the bergamot begins to fade into the background.   As the bergamot recedes, a fruit infused jasmine highlighted by peach comes in to take its place.  The fruit is bright and just so slightly juicy, but not enough to add any weight to the perfume.  As it continues to develop, a sandalwood pencil shaving note appears adding just the right amount of depth to bring this light and bright beauty back to the earth.  In the end, Aqua Celestia Cologne forte rests in a wonderfully light musky floral haze that’s ever so easy to love and easy to wear.

From the Maison Francis Kurkdjian website:

The bergamot becomes tinged with the fruity notes of blackcurrant, mimosa (with its raspberry and blackberry facets), and jasmine (strawberry, apricot and peach accents), before gradually melting into the mellowness of a fruity musky accord. Aqua Celestia Cologne forte releases a bright, crystal-clear aura and offers a flight towards the horizon.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Picking berries in the cool sweet morning air.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AQUA CELESTIA COLOGNE FORTE:  pretty, delightful, refreshing

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AQUA CELESTIA COLOGNE FORTE:  Contents

BOTTOM LINE:  The great thing about the Maison Francis Kurkdjian perfumes is that they are so easy to wear and many have this crisp clean finish that is impossible not to like.  Aqua Celestia Cologne forte (which is an eau de parfum) is no exception.

Aqua Celstica Cologne forte was released this year along with two other perfumes for a trio of Cologne fortes.  The following are my abbreviated impressions of the other two in the collection:

Aqua Vitae Cologne forte:  An inviting perfume that is perfectly delightful with the prettiest of florals that are topped with a mandarin orange.  I would call this a warm perfume that would be perfect for wearing even in the heat of summer.  Another 4 bones from me as it’s really lovely.

Aqua Universalis Cologne forte:  To me, this is the least interesting of the three perfumes.  Comprised of citrus and white muted flowers, it’s not bright, nor pretty, but rather salty and musky.  3 bones.

Samples courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.


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Sultan Pasha Attars: Chypre Chrysantheme

WHAT I SMELL:  Chypre Chrysantheme opens with a citrus blend that ebbs and tides off of the skin with the lemon verbena becoming more prominent as the florals dance in the background.  The soft and lively florals are indistinguishable at this point as they continue to whirl over a lightly powdered oakmoss.  However, it’s not too long before a rose begins to bloom.  It’s slightly metallic and it demands attention.  What’s really interesting is that at this point the various components in the perfume bounce in a kinetic energy as if the fragrance had been bottled before it had a chance to settle.  And that just makes the perfume that more interesting and exciting as you just don’t know what to expect next.  As the perfume continues to develop, a base layer that is thickened with beeswax appears and it seems to be infused with just the slightest of of smoke and honey.  Here the perfume begins to settle and the kinetic energy makes way for a smooth wave of florals.  And when I say wave, it does feel as if they glide in over the beeswax in waves.  The chrysanthemum absolute at this point is front and center and it’s beyond gorgeous.  But in all, the florals are warm and thickened with just the right amount of muted sweetness.  After quite some time, the sweetness begins to settle into a deepened state and a spiced note attaches itself to the florals making the perfume a bit more mysterious.  And it’s here where the perfume rests; soft, but not quiet with just the right amount of mystery for the perfect state of grace.

I should note that every time I wear Chypre Chrysantheme it projects differently each time and new facets seem to come forward depending on the temperature, humidity and possibly even my mood.  And that makes the perfume even that more interesting and special.

Notes from the Sultan Pasha website:

Top:  Lime, Lemon, bergamot, Lemon Verbena, Rosa Alba Otto, jasmine Absolute,

Middle:  Chrysanthemum Absolute, hyacinth accord, Damascena Rose Absolute, Centifollia Rose Absolute, lily of the valley accord, Coffee absolute, Clary sage, honey absolute. 

Base:  Oakmoss, tonka absolute, Civet, white ambergris, beeswax, aged patchouli, musk, labdanum, Madagascan vanilla, Siamese benzoin, Seaweed Absolute, styrax, castoreum, olibanum, Sandalwood Mysore, bourbon Vetiver and much, much more 

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The mystery of the chrysanthemum.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE CHYPRE CHRYSANTHEME: energizing, inviting, divine

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHYPRE CHRYSANTHEME:  CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  Sultan Pasha has a gift from the gods.  The beauty that emanates from his perfumes is pure grace.  I’ve never really thought about chrysanthemum as a perfume note, but here it is and it’s beyond sublime.  Yes, I know I’m gushing, but I can’t help but not.

  • Bone Rating:  5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental
  • Nose: Sultan Pasha
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Starting at approximately $65 for 1 ml perfume oil via the Sultan Pasha website.