The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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New Release: Puredistance Papilio

WHAT I SMELL:  Papilio opens with a soft and serene warmed magnolia that immediately hugs the skin.  It’s enchanting, rather demure and very inviting.  The soft florals blend with just a hint of the vegetal which brings the earth towards the ethereal bouquet.  Blended so incredibly, the perfume at this point is less the sum of notes and is more of an expression of peacefulness with an added layer of fresh dewiness.  Papilio slowly builds in a radiant warmth that seems to born in a soft breeze emanating from the skin as it moves and lifts to the nose.  The perfume then begins to settle in to a light leathered wood that is covered with a hazy powder that sits above the warmed base.  Overall it’s pretty, delicate and light as a feather.  Papilio goes straight to the heart with its endearing beauty.

From the Puredistance website:

PAPILIO is multifaceted, lively and vibrant. Created by Nathalie Feisthauer in Paris. ‘Embrace your true nature’ is the concept of PAPILIO (Latin for ‘Butterfly’). Butterflies come in all shapes and colours and accept themselves as they are – in each phase of their life..

Top notes: Bergamot Oil.

Middle notes: Magnolia Oil, Neroli oil, Carrot oil, Orris, Lily of the valley, Hedione HC, Heliotrope.

Base notes: Cedarwood, Vetyver oil, Amyris oil, Intense woods Ambroxan, Opoponax resinoid, Benzoin resinoid, Vanilla, Touch of Peach, Leather Ambrette, Cashmere, Muscenone.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Butterflies in flight.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PAPILIO:  soft, uplifting, comforting

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PAPILIOCaFleureBon 

BOTTOM LINE:  I think I should be tired of saying that Puredistance has once again graced the perfume world with another magnificent creation.  But here we are again and it’s a wonderful addition to the Puredistance collection.  Sometimes a beautiful perfume is hard to put into words, but instead describing its persona is the best way to give it life in words.  Papilio is incredibly soft and somewhat demure and unassuming, but at the same time it embodies strength and beauty.  And most of all, it’s absolutely gorgeous!

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose:  Nathalie Feisthauer
  • Classification: Unisex, but leans feminine
  • Expense: Starting at 175 Euros for 17ml parfum extrait (25% perfume oil).


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Di Ser Izayoi

WHAT I SMELL:  Izayoi opens with a fresh green citrus that quickly moves to a putty like plastic-ish yuzu and rose.  It’s pretty, but it reminds me of a plastic bottle that would hold shampoo, bubble bath or some product for infants.  At this stage the perfume is rather light with a very subtle and subdued projection, but after a few minutes the perfume begins to build with a lightly peppered spice.  The spice, mixed with a slightly metallic rose, is again subtle and subdued as it adds just the perfect amount of depth to what I find to be an overall crisp and clean perfume.  And not soon after, a vetiver slowly moves the florals out of the picture and together with some anise it takes the perfume in a woody direction.  But thankfully the perfume remains light and full of air.  In the end, Iazyoi is a light woody vetiver whisper of a perfume.

From the Di Ser website:

Izayoi is a word for the the moon, and in Japan it means the moon on the 16th day after the new moon. The Izayoi shows a moon reflected on the water which symbolizes the seen and unseen of this world and the world beyond.

Top Notes: Green citrus, bitter

Heart Notes:  Spicy, light-floral

Base Notes: Earthy, woody

Ingredients:  Bergamot, Green yuzu, Japanese rose, Neroli, Nutmeg, Japanese pepper, Rosewood, Ylang ylang, Star anise, Vetiver, Cypress, Agarwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Japanese Shoji lamp; peaceful beautiful light.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE IZAYOI:  clean, mystical, controlled

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT IZAYOI:  No written reviews found.

BOTTOM LINE:  Izayoi is an enjoyable skin scent that’s nice and easy to wear.  Beyond that, there’s not much else to say.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Citrus spicy woody
  • Nose: Yasuyuki Shinohara
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $230 for 33 ml parfum extrait


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Goldfield & Banks Purple Suede

WHAT I SMELL:  Purple Suede opens with a dry and warm sweet and smoky leathered lavender that is soon met with a pronounced suede.  It’s inviting and wonderfully soft in tone and texture.  The perfume moderates the leather with the lavender as if the leather contains a powder from a lavender sachet.  This powdery mixture is muted and surprisingly dreamlike like for a leather perfume.  But of course as soon as I write about how soft and muted it is, Purple Suede begins to turn to the more robust with an undercurrent of peppered oud that begins to push itself in from beneath.  The leather begins to sharpen, and to me, turns from the unisex to the more masculine with a deep and increasingly heavy presence with a nod to the funky with the addition of civet.  Thankfully after awhile the leather comes back into play, but it never returns to the soft and muted suede that I liked at the beginning of the journey.

From the Goldfield & Banks website:

An olfactory imagination expressing the scent of aromatic fields of sunburnt lavender, where blossoms are crisped by the fierce heat of the sun. Paired with the scent of rust-coloured saddles, this sensual perfume reveals a distinctively rich and dry sillage. A contemporary and unexpected take on lavender and leather. 

Botanical & Essences – Lavender Tasmania, Pink Pepper Reunion Island, Hyssop Flowers France, Woodleather, Patchouli Indonesia, Oakmoss, Civet, Amber, Oud

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Little John, played by Alan Hale Sr. in The Adventures of Robin Hood (1938).   A nice enough fella with a good demeanor, but who might need to clean up just a bit.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PURPLE SUEDE:  potent, funkified, robust

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PURPLE SUEDE:  I Fragrance

BOTTOM LINE:  I loved the opening of Purple Suede and found that the soft lavender infused leather demeanor that was initially there was pretty and calming.  Unfortunately, with the addition of the civet and oud, the perfume took a path that didn’t appeal to me.  Not bad, but not a love either.    

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Aromatic Leather
  • Classification: Unisex, but leans masculine
  • Expense: $235 for 100ml parfum extrait