parfum | The Scented Hound

February 16, 2013
by The Scented Hound 23 Comments

Rose Nacree du Desert by Guerlain

I had forgotten all about this sample that I picked up in NY last fall until I was digging through my untested samples today. I thought this would be the perfect test for the depressing gray and blah Saturday weather.

WHAT I SMELL: Rose Nacree du Desert opens with an almost berried sweetened herbacious rose. It’s juicy and yummy and although somewhat candied in it sweetness it’s not what I would consider too sweet because it doesn’t scream. Soon enough, a smooth creaminess blends with patchouli and oud and the sweetened opening burns off. At this point, the fragrance becomes more linear, but with one little last twist of the introduction of a saffroned spice. If I can compare this to anything, I find that there is a similarity to Rose Oud by Kilian, but Rose Nacree is much more subtle and subdued. I love Rose Oud, but to me this is more elegant and translucent and a bit more to my liking.

From Fragrantica: A fragrance built on lush Persian rose, the legendary blossom of the east. Creamy yet dark, rose is given a mysterious air via saffron, patchouli and a hint of agarwood (oud), fanned on rich benzoin resin.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: This is a midnight rose blossoming under the full moon with its lilting fragrant blossom enticing young couples into love and romance.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ROSE NACREE DU DESERT: dreamy, comforting, subtle

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ROSE NACREE DU DESERT: What Men Should Smell Like, Katie Chutzpah, The Scented Salamander

BOTTOM LINE: This is another exceptional perfume from Guerlain. I am tempted now to run to Saks Fifth Avenue to test out the other to fragrances in the Les Deserts d’Orient collection; Encens Mythique d’Orient and Songe d’Un Bois d’Eté. This is really lovely. In fact, I believe I need to put some more on now!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Theirry Wasser
Classification: Unisex
Expense: I can’t find this online, but I believe it’s between $250 – $300 for 75ml EdP

December 29, 2012
by The Scented Hound 22 Comments

Enchanted Forest by The Vagabond Prince

WHAT I SMELL: Enchanted Forest opens with a beautiful juicy blast of ripe blackcurrant. It’s lusciously mouth-watering and evokes the sensation of just picked fruit of a fresh and green fir. It’s so fresh and dense that you want to take a drink of the wine that it represents. After a bit the blackcurrent diminishes and what develops is more fir. It smells like a fresh Christmas tree after it had just been cut and the moist melting snow combined with the smell of the resins fill the air. After a lengthy transformation and many wanderings throughout the forest, you’re left with a slightly sweet and slightly spicy warm and comforting musk. Very beautiful indeed.

Top Notes: pink pepper, aldehydes, sweet orange (traces), flower cassis, blackcurrant leaf, hawthorn, effects of rum and wine, rosemary, davana.

Heart Notes: blackcurrant buds absolute (by LMR from Grasse), CO2 blackcurrant (by Floral Concept from Grasse), Russian coriander seed, honeysuckle, rose, carnation, vetiver.

Base Notes: opoponax resinoid, Siam benzoin, amber, oakmoss, fir balsam absolute, Patchouli Purecoeur®, castoreum absolute, cedar notes, vanilla, musk.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Enchanted Forest is named exactly for what it smells like; an enchanted forest. I can’t do any better than that for a visual. OK, maybe add Hansel and Gretel to the mix (minus an old witch)!

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ENCHANTED FOREST: lush, ripe, evergreen

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ENCHANTED FOREST: Kafkaesque, Scents Memory

BOTTOM LINE: I really like this fragrance, especially the top notes which are just incredibly lush and full-bodied. The middle phase is OK, but the drydown makes this a comfort scent. I give an A for the marketing and packaging of this product and I’m sure there are plenty who will be clamouring for this when it goes on sale in the US. I probably would be in line for this as well, but I just wish they would offer this in 50ml size in addition to the 100ml version.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Woody Aromatic
Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour
Classification: Unisex
Expense: 140 Euros for 100ml EdP. Only available at Jovoy Paris at present.

Promotional sample provided by The Vagabond Prince.

November 11, 2012
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

Umbra by Ramon Monegal

WHAT I SMELL: Opens with a surprising sweet, almost citrusy (although there is no citrus listed in the notes) vetiver that warms quickly into a peppered musk. I’m not a huge fan of vetivers, but I like this because it’s not too green. The pepper and musk ground this, making it a bit more earthy. And hidden behind this muskiness is a sweet mossy woodiness that give this some life and depth. As pleasant as this fragrance is, it pretty much disappeared from my skin after a few hours…and not just became faint, it really disappeared.

Notes: Haitian Vetiver root, Yugoslavian Tree Moss, Madagascar Black Pepper, Bourbon Geranium leaves, Canadian Fir Balsam and Tonka bean

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: What I believe women want men to smell like.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE UMBRA: safe, comfortable, easy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT UMBRA: Olfactoria’s Travels, Parfumistan’s Blogg, Bois de Jasmin

BOTTOM LINE: Umbra is a nice and pleasant vetiver and a good one for those who don’t lean towards liking them. I just wish it would last longer on my skin. Although this is considered a unisex scent, I do believe it leans pretty masculine.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Fougere – woody – spicy
Nose: Ramon Monegal
Classification: Unisex, leans masculine
Expense: $185 for 50ml EdP