The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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PANDORA by DSH PERFUMES – VISIONS OF MERIDA

pandora_present11We just got back to the States after visiting Merida, Mexico this past week.  Merida is one of the spots that we are visiting in our search for the ideal place to retire in a few years.  We’re ready for an adventure and are both drawn to Mexico.  So after hearing wonderful things about the city, we decided to take a visit.  Merida didn’t disappoint.  Without getting too much into details, Merida is the capital city in the state of Yucatan.  It was founded over 472 years ago and is city full of culture, good restaurants and wonderful people.  We met with a real estate agent and looked at various options in the central city which is comprised of colonial homes which sit flush to the sidewalk, only to reveal high ceiling grandeur with gardens in the back.  They were stunning.  We also managed to get out of the city for a bit visiting a hacienda that was unrestored but in which you could see the magnificence that once existed as well as the Mayan ruins at Uxmal which after in the past visiting other ruins rated the best as the details on the building were very well-preserved.  Both of decided that we need to go back in the fall and do some more investigation into this Yucatan jewel.  It really felt like home.

So what does this have to do with DSH’s Pandora?  Well, let’s just say that it became my Merida Mexico perfume of choice.  A few days prior to leaving for Mexico I received my order from DSH with my order of Pandora.  After reading some wonderful reviews by Kafkaesque, I wondered why I hadn’t sought DSH out before so I gave their website a spin and for some reason, was drawn towards Pandora.  Have you ever been drawn into a perfume because of its name?  I don’t believe I have in the past, but this time the name was the key!  I must do this more often, because like Merida, Pandora is a jewel.

WHAT I SMELL:  Opens with this beautiful lightly sugared suede along with this rounded deep floral mix that’s deeply soothing and strangely intoxicating and exotic.  After some time, Pandora starts to reveal its oakmoss, but without drying the fragrance too much, and as such, the otherworldly quality that gives the Pandora its mystery remains intact.  The fragrance doesn’t much morph beyond this, but what it does is radiate off your skin like a living force field that mixed with your body heat, will grow and pulse to match your warmth.

Pandora’s Notes:

Top notes: Aldehyde/Aldehydic, Bergamot, Cassis Bud, Davana, Green Peppercorn, Ozone, Pink Peppercorn, Ruby Red Fruits (botanical accord), Spice Notes, Violet Leaf Absolute.

Middle notes: Cabreuva Wood, Centifolia Rose Absolute, Green Tea Absolute, Juhi Jasmine Absolute, Linden Blossom Absolute, Orris Root, Yerba Mate Absolute.

Base notes: Ambergris Tincture, Australian Sandalwood, Cyperus, Fossilized Amber, Green Oakmoss, Mousse de Saxe no.1 (botanical accord), Muhuhu, Patchouli co2, Tonka Bean Absolute, Vanilla Absolute, Vetiver co2.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Sexiness.  This was well suited for the warm Mexican nights and for dining al fresco at Merida’s lovely restaurants.  It made me feel alive, confident and surprisingly sexy.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PANDORA:  warm, deep, soulful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PANDORA: The Perfume Critic, Scent Hive, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE:  This is so good that the 10ml bottle that I purchase has now been reduced to around 3 remaining mls.  I must have more.  Pandora has me under her spell!  Now, I must have the parfum extrait!

  • Bone Rating: 5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $63 for 10ml EdP from the DSH Perfumes website.  It should be noted that the picture above is for the 15ml parfum extrait which sells for $227 (sorry, I couldn’t find a picture of the EdP version!)


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ROSAE MVNDI by PROFVMVM

Rosae MvndiWHAT I SMELL: Rosae Mvndi has a sweet and tarty rose opening that smells like candy (Sweethearts), and it  has this cotton candy consistency, like rose spun sugar.  Even though it’s rosy sweet it’s light enough not to make it oppressive.  A woody patuchouli lurks underneath to help bring the spun sugar down to a more earthly existence.  After around 15 minutes a slight sourness comes in I believe from the vetiver which kind of gives the fragrance a salty edge.  After another 10 minutes or so, Rosae Mvndi begins to smell exactly like Bazooka Bubble Gum.  It almost has that sweet and juicy first bite into the gum feel.  After some more time, the fragrance deepens, although it has that Bazooka edge, the warmth and woodiness starts to make it diminish and instead, it beefens up the fragrance.  Wait… after almost an hour, the fragrance went into sugar overdrive, like someone spilled sugar all over it.  In the end Rosae Mvndi is a woody rose fragrance that is sweet, but not overly shiny and bright.

Rosae Mvndi Notes:  rose, patchouli, vetiver, cedar wood

BazookaWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Of course, Bazooka Bubble Gum (OK, not through the entire life, but enough of it to warrant the comparison).

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ROSAE MVNDI:  sugary, sweetened, candy-coated

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ROSAE MVNDI:  Scent for Thought, AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE:  I don’t love it.  I don’t hate it.  I can tell you that a little goes a long way and this is probably more suited for cooler months as the sugary sweetness would probably become extremely cloying in the heat and sun.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Classification: Leans Feminine
  • Expense: $265 for 100ml EdP


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TRIOMPHE by RANCE

TriompheWHAT I SMELL: Triomphe opens with a spicy bergamot and a little pepper; it’s warm and inviting and well blended.  After a few minutes the rose makes it presence, but it’s really muted by the warmth of the base which is rather smooth and creamy.  As time progresses, the fragrance projects the patchouli woodiness and seems to sink deeper in a warmish pool.  The fragrance begins to dry out, but it’s so full-bodied with the florals that help to give this so much shape.  After around 30 minutes the fragrance really dries out and that rounded floral makes way for the balsam and the patchouli takes the center stage. In the end, you’re left with a lovely slightly smoky, nutty and peppery woody scent.

From the Rance 1795 website:

Only the word Triumph could describe Napoleon’s immense glory. And Triomphe was the name of one of the perfumes François Rancé dedicated to the idol of his life.

Napoleon loved the fragrances of his native island, and François Rancé drew inspiration from these: the light perfume of citrus fruit merges with the fragrance of roses and orange blossom, adorned with Grasse jasmine and Florentine iris. Cedar wood and musk, with hints of vanilla, give the fragrance intensity. 

A decoration which represents the military virtues of the Victor was etched onto the glass by a Parisian master glassmaker. It is today as it was 200 years ago.

The precious perfume is made entirely of the rarest and most highly-prized natural essences, obtained from the best years, i.e. “millésimé(vintage) mixed, stirred and left to age according to Rancé tradition.

Head Notes:  bergamot, neroli, mandarin

Heart Notes:  Bulgarian Rose, magnolia, wisteria, nutmeg

Sophisticated HoundBase Notes:  patchouli, cistus labdanum, tolu balsam, Reunion vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The sophisticated hound

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE TRIOMPHE:  classic, classy, gentlemanly

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TRIOMPHE:  None to be found.  How is this possible given how fantastic this is?!

BOTTOM LINE:  Rance has been operating in perfumery since the 18th Century and I can see why.  If this is any indication of their products, I need to do some more exploring.  And how pretty is that bottle?!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Aromatic Fougere
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: $110 for 50ml EdP