parfum | The Scented Hound

May 21, 2014
by The Scented Hound 23 Comments

Bandit by Robert Piguet

WHAT I SMELL: Bandit opens up with rush of galbanum; it’s green and almost sparkling in its intensity, but at the same time rather animalic and dirty which seems like a contradiction. But soon, Bandit starts to elicit its floral side with a some gorgeous ylang ylang and jasmine sitting on what seems to be a layer of cigarette smoke that is layered on top of the green notes. After around the five-minute mark a light spice combines with the floral and hints of leather start to peak through. Soon enough the oakmoss starts to make itself known as the dryness sits at the base while the other notes morph above it. However, after some more development the oakmoss reveals an extra sharpness that when smelled it wants to collapse the inside of your nostrils, but that sharpness soon moves to a more dusty and powdery essence; all awhile still sitting on top are the lightly leathered florals that are rather pretty in more of a masculine way. In the end you’re left with a dusty and dreamy lightly leathered floral.

I find that Bandit seems to transform itself at different times when I wear it. Sometimes it’s more floral and pretty, other times it morphs quickly into the dryer chypre and light leather. Either way I like it because it’s unique and different and I believe, pretty unmistakable as a perfume.

From the Robert Piguet website:

Provocative and sultry, this chypre fragrance is an intense blend of exotic leather, wood, spice and floral notes including neroli, orange, ylang ylang, jasmine, tuberose, vetiver, oakmoss, patchouli and musk.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Bandit’s not quite the tough and wild gal that I had heard about and was expecting. Instead, I think she’s much more of a “Pussycat Bandit!”

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BANDIT: dry, semi-tough, dusty

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BANDIT: Olfactoria’s Travels, Perfume Shrine, Perfume-Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE: My review is based on the Parfum Extrait version and on my box is a sticker that states:

“Certification

This is the original formula for Bandit created by this company with Robert Piguet for the introduction of the perfume in 1944

Errol G.W.Stafford, President, Givaudan Fragrances Corporation”

So I guess this version is about as good as you can ever get to the real thing. But I have to admit that if I want a real dirty girl, I’ll stick with my Gres Cabochard. However, don’t get me wrong, I love this pussycat of a rebel.

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Chypre Floral
Nose: Germaine Cellier
Classification: Feminine, but can easily be worn by a man
Expense: Varies depending on the concentration. Review based on the parfum extrait.

May 15, 2014
by The Scented Hound 14 Comments

Bergamote Boisee by Au Pays de la Fleur d’Orangers

WHAT I SMELL: Bergamote Boisee opens with a refreshing citrus and cedar which is incredibly similar to the new Hermes Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche which I just reviewed, except that Bergamote Boisee seems likes its edged with a sugary element that makes it feel like its surrounded by shimmering diamonds that are tinged with sunshine. That may be the honey note that I’m experiencing; and if so, it’s like honey that has been hardened and sugared which keeps it lighter rather than what we typically envision honey as thick and syrupy. After around 10 minutes or so, the sugared element makes way for the patchouli which retains a slightly sweetened edge to the woody base. Every time I lift my wrist to smell Bergamote Boisee, I think to myself, “this makes me happy,” and I like that feeling. Bergamote Boisee doesn’t morph or change much, but it’s basically this wonderfully uplifting slightly floral woody scent that is easy and enjoyable to wear!

Notes: Grapefruit, Bergamot, White Flowers, Cistus, Cedar, Oakmoss, Musk, Honey, Patchouli

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: happiness and contentment

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BERGAMOTE BOISEE: effortless, likable, agreeable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BERGAMOTE BOISEE: CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: This is the first sample that I pulled from the Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger’s Collection les Inédits and what a pleasant surprise. I grabbed this sample first as I thought that a fragrance highlighting bergamot would make for a nice summer fragrance. What I wasn’t expecting is that the opening would be so close to Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche. Where the Hermes left me with a slightly soured citrus that was pleasant enough, Bergamote Boisee left me with a sweeter and happier alternative that makes me want to skip down road with a smile on my face. Good job Au Pays de la Fleur d’Orangers!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Citrus Aromatic
Nose: Jean-Claude Gigodot
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $125 for 100ml EdP

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary

May 12, 2014
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

New Release: Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche by Hermes

WHAT I SMELL: Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche opens with a very refreshing citrus and juicy grapefruit which sits atop the unmistakenly Terre d’Hermes cedar like wood. But given a couple of minutes, the cool citrus dominates. It’s refreshing, bright and rather happy. Soon enough the cedar makes a return along with the geranium giving it a bit of spice, but the citrus comes in and out rotating its place on the top with the woody components. Finally, Eau Tres Fraiche maintains this hue of wooded lightly bitter citrus that’s not too sweet, not too dry and is overall just an ease to wear.

Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche notes:

Top notes are orange, citruses and water notes; middle note is geranium; base notes are woody notes, patchouli and cedar.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Summer camp. It’s fresh, it’s woody and feels like the morning dew with the sun hitting the surrounding lake and woods.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE TERRE d’HERMES EAU TRES FRAICHE: comfortable, easy, fresh

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TERRE d’HERMES EAU TRES FRAICHE: Sorcery of Scent, Now Smell This, Grain de Musc

BOTTOM LINE: Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche is a nicely done flanker and is perfect for the summer. Terre d’Hermes is one of my all time favorites and this makes for a nice addition to the line.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Woody Aromatic
Classification: Masculine, but leans unisex
Expense: $115 for 125ml EdT