parfum | The Scented Hound

January 29, 2015
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

Guerlain Shalimar Souffle de Parfum

I love Shalimar and the intoxicating effect is has on me; it stands out in my collection as a classic and revered masterpiece. So when I reached down in my big bag of untested samples and saw the sample of Shalimar Souffle de Parfum I immediately thought to myself that I was going to hate it. I admit, that I was being prejudicial prior to testing this, but the words “souffle” and “Shalimar” together had me very concerned. Shalimar is delightfully refined and adult…I am wondering if this new flanker was mean to bring the kiddies into the big time…maybe like the perfumed Joe Camel?!

Peeps

WHAT I SMELL: Tangy lemon and then a buttered orange creme that’s surprisingly rich, lush, gourmand and inviting. I like the fact that there’s a sweetness about the opening that is rooted in the lemon, but without a high dosage of sugar. There’s also a wonderful shimmering hue that makes the fragrance sparkle. After around 10 minutes the jasmine takes center stage, it’s clean and fresh and topped by the citrus. I have to say that the fragrance thus far feels like a big chemical concoction. However, in this case, that’s not a bad thing. After another 5 minutes, Souffle (as I’ll call it from here out) starts to grown in projection. There’s a creaminess that comes forward combined with vanilla that makes the perfume feel like a cross between an egg custard and a Peep. The white musk adds a dryer sheet effect to the perfume which again, I feel like the combination of the Peeps, dryer sheets, etc. should make this a wreck. Well, it’s not. It’s just a flanker that is targeted to a younger audience and in that case, I would say that it works. In the end, Souffle is a lemony tart souffle that’s bright and sunny.

From Guerlain:

inspired by a fabulous Indian love story, Jacques Guerlain created the legendary Shalimar perfume in 1925. Now, Thierry Wasser has breathed new life into this legendary perfume, taking it to the heights of sensuality. A luminous, modern creation with notes of jasmine, vanilla and white musk.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: An Easter basket.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SHALIMAR SOUFFLE DE PARFUM: happy, fresh, fluffy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SHALIMAR SOUFFLE DE PARFUM: Now Smell This, Colognoisseur, The Candy Perfume Boy

BOTTOM LINE: If you remove yourself from trying to compare this to the original Shalimar you’ll find that this is a nice light treat that’s perfect for a younger audience. And I have to say that the name fits perfectly…this is a souffle of a perfume!

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Thierry Wasser
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $100 for 1.7 oz. Eau de Parfum

January 23, 2015
by The Scented Hound 5 Comments

Gucci Guilty Pour Homme

WHAT I SMELL: Gucci Guilty opens with skin bracing bergamot and citrus laden lavender (thankfully the lavender is light). Within a few minutes there’s a sugared layer of wood and patchouli added to the mix. At this point, Gucci Guilty is rather buoyant, refreshing and very accessible. After around 5 minutes, the sugared aspects begin to disappear and the fragrance flattens and becomes more woody and a bit salty, which is a nice touch as it makes the scent feel more part of your body than something that’s just sitting above it. I was expecting Gucci Guilty to be big and in your face. Instead, it’s surprisingly muted and understated making it very easy to wear.

From the Gucci website:

a contemporary fougère fragrance
top notes of lavender and lemon
heart note of orange flower
base notes of cedar wood and patchouli

Easy Living

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Living in uncomplicated ease.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE GUCCI GUILTY: easy, understated, unremarkable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GUCCI GUILTY: Now Smell This, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE: With a name like “Guilty,” one would expect a fragrance that is decadent to say the least. In spite of its name, Gucci Guilty is about a harmless as a kitten. For a men’s fragrance, it’s OK as there is nothing unique about it which is too bad, because the opening starts off rather promising. But in the end, you’re left with a pretty quiet perfume that’s “just nice.”

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Aromatic Fougere
Nose: Jacques Huclier
Classification: Masculine
Expense: Varies. $62 for 50 ml Eau de Toilette

January 19, 2015
by The Scented Hound 15 Comments

Vintage Chanel No. 19 Parfum

WHAT I SMELL: Chanel No. 19 opens with a brilliant rush of green, with hints of civet. It’s breathtakingly beautiful, vibrant while topped with sparkling powder. Soon enough a woodiness blends into a mossy dryness as the perfume pulsates off the skin. This is refined sexuality in a bottle with radiant but muted florals on top of a vetiver and oakmoss base and what seems to be a bit of dusty leather. As pretty as Chanel No. 19 is I do find that there’s a darkness that lurks at the base of the perfume that provides a serious and in-charge aura of control. As beautiful as this is, Chanel No. 19 is to me, a refined feminine butch perfume.

From the Chanel website:

Gabrielle Chanel’s signature scent, named for her August 19th birthdate. A rich blend of floral and green notes, followed by May Rose and Iris from Florence. The finale: a hint of Chypre with a subtle, woody Vetiver note. In parfum form, the most powerful, long-lasting concentration of fragrance.

Top notes: galbanum, neroli, bergamot
Heart notes: jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris
Base notes: vetiver, sandalwood, leather, musk

Jackie Onassis & Lee Radziwelll circa 1970

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The antithesis of the late 60s early 70s hippie.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHANEL NO. 19: dusty, sophisticated, intoxicating

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHANEL NO. 19: Perfume Shrine, Bois de Jasmin, Yesterday’s Perfume

BOTTOM LINE: Sometimes conveying a perfume in words is next to impossible. Chanel No. 19 is one of those perfumes for me as it defies my interpretation. I will say however that the picture of Jackie and Lee is perfect for this perfume as I can see both of them lounging in their NY apartments talking, smoking and cocktailing it up wearing this timeless classic.

Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Chypre
Nose: Henri Robert
Classification: Feminine – but easily worn by a man.
Expense: Varies. Review based on vintage the parfum extrait version.