parfum | The Scented Hound

August 17, 2015
by The Scented Hound 3 Comments

New Release: Ex Idolo Ryder & Interview with Ex Idolo’s Matthew Zhuk

WHAT I SMELL: Ryder opens with a lightly boozy ambered wood. It reminds me of the beginning of fall, when ashen wood meets the semi-sun tinged skies. After a couple of minutes, the perfume lightens and becomes a bit sweeter, like the sweetened tobacco sitting in the bowl of a pipe. Ryder is anything but brash or loud, instead the subtle rise of the tobacco and frankincense weaves around the wearer like an aura of comfort. After 10 minutes, a rounded and full-bodied jasmine enters and takes its place right in the middle of the composition as if it was the filling in an old and worn wooded box. What started off as of more of a standard woody perfume now takes on a new dimension of mixing the masculine and the feminine. The jasmine also adds a thicken headiness which gives the perfume more projection. In the end, Ryder is a spiced jasmine beauty that lives in the world of masculinity.

From the Ex Idolo press release:

A FRAGRANCE INSPIRED BY THE HISTORY OF MAYFAIR AND ST JAMES

True to the traditions of the grand houses of the golden age of perfume, Ex Idolo has created an exceptional blend inspired by the history of the members clubs of Mayfair and St. James in London. The fragrance is a juxtaposition of sweet tobacco and boozy notes against a warm woody-amber accord. The fragrance is anchored by a sparkling and ultra rare Omani (Hougari) frankincense. Although inspired by the past, Ryder is a modern fragrance; it is worth mentioning that although many of the members clubs started as male-only – a large number of them now invite women as well. To represent this, Ryder’s distinctive character has been enhanced with a heady, indolic Royal jasmine. Ryder is a unisex fragrance.

The one and only Marlene Dietrich

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Neither all masculine, nor all feminine, Ryder is the perfect old world gender bender.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE RYDER: confident, secure, bold

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT RYDER: Scooshy

BOTTOM LINE: Ryder is the perfect scent for the coming fall months. It’s intoxicating and heady jasmine makes me look forward to the impending change of seasons.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody
Nose: Matthew Zhuk
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $185 for 50 ml Release Eau de Parfum

Matthew Zhuk, Ex Idolo

Mr. Zhuk, the creative mind and nose behind the Ex Idolo brand was gracious enough to answer some of the Hound’s questions:

The Scented Hound: The inspiration behind the perfume, “the history of the St. James and Mayfair” fits perfectly with the feel of the perfume. What compelled you towards this historical reference in creating Ryder?

Matthew Zhuk: When I moved to London 4 years ago I actually had the privilege of visiting a lot of these clubs. I’ve always been a fan of the things of old, antiques.. mechanical watches, you name it – so naturally it was very interesting for me. A lot of the things I saw and sensory experiences I had really stuck with me and I guess that’s where the inspiration came from. It’s not really meant to be a literal or realistic interpretation as some perfumes do with their subjects of interpretation – but rather my interpretation through the lens of memory and human experience.

The Scented Hound: Where does the name Ryder derive from?

Matthew Zhuk: Ryder Street is a street in St. James which once was home to one of the oldest members clubs in London – now there are some art, rare books and manuscripts dealers in the area.

The Scented Hound: Ex Idolo 33 was launched in 2013, why so long for a sophomore release?

Matthew Zhuk: I’m not a fan of brands releasing “x” many perfumes per year, quarter, etc – it’s not good for the industry and it’s not good for the consumer either. Of course, this is the open market and anyone can do as they wish – but it’s not really my style 🙂

The Scented Hound: Now that Ryder is launching, anything next in store for Ex Idolo?

Matthew Zhuk: Always ideas floating around – I can’t even predict which one will be the one to see the light of day. It’s quite possible that the next Ex Idolo product won’t be a perfume.

I love it when a perfumer and creative director aren’t led by the conventions of trying to create and market based on the latest trends. Matt Zhuk and Ex Idolo have really created something exceptional with Ryder. We’ll see how long it takes or what kind of product is introduced by the brand next, but I have the feeling it will be something pretty special. Thanks Matt!

August 12, 2015
by The Scented Hound 8 Comments

An Air of Despair by Imaginary Authors

WHAT I SMELL: An Air of Despair opens with a warmed cedar and a wonderfully peppered saffron as well a white musk linen that sits right underneath the spiced wood. It’s quite close to the skin and slightly mysterious. In a short while, the perfume does begin to grow and project as it becomes more blended. After some more time there’s a slight rubbery consistency that comes forward, but for the most part, the perfume lives in this cedar box wrapped up in a dry gauzy musk.

From the Imaginary Author’s website:

When Vivian Gwyn’s parents mysteriously disappear one month before her eighteenth birthday it foils an elaborate plan she had to kill them herself. In her search for clues as to their whereabouts she finds an elegant mink coat and a safe full of valuables in her mother’s cedar closet. Keeping the coat but selling everything else, she embarks on a glamorous adventure that takes her from the small Tennessee town where she grew up to luxurious penthouses in Manhattan, runways in Milan, and finally the castle in Switzerland from which she learns she is a descendant. No expense is spared in Viv’s valiant quest to shake the sadness that plagued her upbringing and she quickly learns it’s not riches that bring happiness but happiness that brings riches.

NOTES: Cedar, Saffron, Musk & Sadness

WHEN TO WEAR: Embrace your summertime sadness. An Air of Despair will lift you up inside while keeping the outward despondency that makes you so desirable in tact. @allbaddays #eternallybummed

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The official perfume of Twin Peak’s Laura Palmer.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AN AIR OF DESPAIR: Northwestern, boxy, singular

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AN AIR OF DESPAIR: CaFleureBon, Brooklyn Fragrance Lover

BOTTOM LINE: Josh Meyer’s limited summer release makes you feel that fall is just around the corner and that the cool, bleak rain stained sky will soon be upon us. I guess An Air of Despair actually is the perfect name isn’t it?!

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Nose: Josh Meyer
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $55 for 30 ml Limited Release Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary

August 10, 2015
by The Scented Hound 18 Comments

Antonia by Puredistance

WHAT I SMELL: Antonia opens with an absolutely heady and exhilarating rush of full floral lushness with the beautiful ylang-ylang front and center. The perfume is luxuriant and rather waxy and it sits on the deepest powdered galbanum that seems to push the florals off of the skin. Antonio makes my head swim with its feminine power. There is nothing demure about this lady; but don’t get me wrong she is a lady in every sense of the word. The perfume transforms, but not dramatically or with any sharp or sudden turns or edges, instead, she slowly moves from the brightest and dryest green to more of a warm and lightly soapy symphony of florals. Antonia is a ravishing beauty from the very beginning when the rush of the green florals radiate from the first spritz and continues for hours to come. When you wear this perfume, you are in Antonia’s world and it’s as beautiful of a world as you’ll ever experience.

From the Puredistance website:

Created by Master Perfumer Annie Buzantian in New York, Puredistance ANTONIA is a highly original green floral with a great lushness and warmth of heart, but at the same time pillowy and gentle as can be. Key in the creation of ANTONIA is the image of a strong, positive, but at the same time gentle woman.

The perfume is neither modern, nor old-fashioned. Puredistance ANTONIA is a timeless perfume with a feel of innocence, yet feminine and confident. She grabs you with gentleness and faithfully stays with you, tenacious, but never overwhelming.

Ingredients: Jasmine, Rose Essence, Ylang Ylang, Orris, Ivy green, Galbanum, Vanilla and Vetiver.

Ziegfiled Girl – 1920s

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: All woman; all-powerful in her beauty and sexuality.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ANTONIA: magnificent, heady, voluminous

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ANTONIA: Olfactoria’s Travels, Undina’s Looking Glass, Kafkaesque

BOTTOM LINE: Puredistance is turning out to at the top of the list of my favorite perfume houses. Their perfumes are works of art in that they are exquisitely refined and of the highest quality. Where other perfumes develop with harsh twist and turns, their perfumes transform and reveal the loveliest of secrets with a whisper. Puredistance wants to ensure their perfumes are perfection, and because of this new introductions to the line are far and few between. But when they do release a new perfume, its pure magic as evident with their latest release, White.

Bone Rating: 5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Annie Buzantian
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $160 for 17 ml parfum extrait or $270 for 60 ml. Note that Puredistance has some fantastic promotions on their website!