fragrance | The Scented Hound

October 19, 2015
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

New Release: Ambre Cashmere Intense by Parfums de Nicolaï

WHAT I SMELL: Ambre Cashmere Intense opens with a warmed citrus and a lightly crackling spice. It’s juicy and more full-bodied than the typical light “summer” citrus opening. There’s also a real sweetness to the citrus, as if it’s topped with a light layer of brown sugar and as it begins to develop, a creaminess comes in to provide for a semi-thickened liquid gold consistency. Ambre Cashmere Intense is the sum of its parts rather than a series of notes like a mixed creme smoothie. Plus, there’s a gourmand sweetness the reminds me of sugared pecans sprinkled on vanilla ice cream. After a bit, a peppery note appears and helps to tone down the gourmand sweetness, but the buttery consistency remains intact. After some more time, the sandalwood appears bringing with it the somewhat sharpened hairspray edge. At this point, the perfume is very similar to one of my favorites, Guerlain Samsara. But as soon as I say that, the sandalwood begins to meld with the patchouli and amber which reduces any and all sharp edges making this one cashmere laden gourmand perfume perfect for the fall.

From the Parfums de Nicolaï website:

The start is made by a light pepper-mandarin vibration, quickly softened by a floral iris bouquet. The ‘amber’ chord of the fragrance is sublimate by vanilla absolute, escorted by Siam benzoin and styrax resinoid.

A rich and elegant creation from which the long trail, the tenacity and the sensuality can only be irresistible.

Top Notes: Black Pepper Essence, Essence of Mandarin, Lemon Essence

Hearth Notes: Orris butter, Violette, Clove Nail Essense

Background Notes: Absolute Vanilla, Labdanum absolute, Resinooid Benzoin, Tonka bean absolute, Essence of Patchouli, Sandalwood, Musk, Amber

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Sugared nuts with cream.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AMBRE CASHMERE INTENSE: sweetened, silky, smooth

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AMBRE CASHMERE INTENSE: Kafkaesque, Chemist in the Bottle, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: The opening of Ambre Cashmere Intense was a bit too sweet for my taste, but once the perfume settles down from its initial sugared gourmand lusciousness, the real magic happens as the perfume wraps itself in a comforting creamy silky smooth sandalwood blanket of rich and lovely goodness.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental
Nose: Patricia de Nicola ï
Classification: Leans feminine
Expense: $65 for 30 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary

October 12, 2015
by The Scented Hound 4 Comments

New Release: Comme des Garcons Floriental

WHAT I SMELL: Floriental opens cool to the skin, but warm to the nose with a comforting labdanum and a light and airy incense which is rounded and full-bodied without being heavy. Soon a subdued plum note enters along with an earthiness that keeps the fruit grounded, but the fragrance is pleasingly lightly gourmand at this stage. After a bit, a creamy sandalwood enters the mix along with a lightly sweetened tobacco. Floriental is a comfort perfume in that it’s light smoky radiance is like a transitional sweater taking you from the warm summer months to the cool of the fall. In the end, Floriental exists in a lightly boozy, incensed sandalwood haze.

From the Comme des Garcons Parfums website:

Floriental is a disrupted floral fragrance that challenges the traditions of perfumery to reimagine a flower that has no scent.
A creative collision that blurs the lines between the floral and the oriental to create something completely new.
An odourless flower is given life, a virtual scent imagined: enigmatic, contrasted, intense.

Labdanum, lavish sandalwood, vetiver, incense, pink pepper and plum liqueur.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A rain-soaked fall day when you enjoy a quiet walk through the colored leaves.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE FLORIENTAL: introspective, calming, quiet

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT FLORIENTAL: Katie Puckrick Smells

BOTTOM LINE: Now that it’s getting cooler outside, I should be excited about switching gears toward wearing some fantastic cooler weather fragrances. However, I could easily live in a climate where it was summer all year-long and where I could just remain smelling of white flowers. Unfortunately that’s not the case…but a fragrance like Floriental is a welcomed gentle push into the cooler months making for an easy seasonal transition without effort.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Oriental
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $103 for 50 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary

October 7, 2015
by The Scented Hound 6 Comments

New Release: Aqua Vitae Forte by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

WHAT I SMELL: Aqua Vitae Forte opens softly with a beautiful sugar kissed bergamot and citrus. It’s light and ethereal, romantic and pretty as well as comfortably warm and lightly powdered. Blended seamlessly, the notes are very hard to distinguish except for a floral finish on a bed of beautiful sandalwood which also provides for a slightly soured bitterness, which does not detract from the perfume’s beauty. After quite some time, Aqua Vitae Forte begins to grow ever so quietly and a slight celery like accord and hints of spice come forward giving the perfume this floral and vegetal presence. The perfume is slow to develop and it transforms like a dreamlike cloud passing oh so slowly to reveal the sun once the wisps of the clouds have passed.

From the Maison Francis Kurkdjian website:

Dive into the memory of a summer day when the sun’s rays brush against a tanned skin. Imagine the caress of a floral and woody breeze… Aqua Vitae forte forges this invisible bond between the freshness of the nights to come and the heat of the days gone by.

Olfactory Description:

Bergamot and lemon from Calabria – Cardamom from Guatemala – Cinnamon from Ceylon East Indian sandalwood – Mandarin from Sicily – Orange blossom from Tunisia – Pink Szechuan pepper – Vetiver from Haiti – Ylang ylang from Madagascar.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: There’s a delicateness to the perfume, that’s met with a strong foundation like a set of beautiful fine china.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AQUA VITAE FORTE: subdued, enigmatic, restrained

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AQUA VITAE FORTE: Colognoisseur, Fragrance Emergency

BOTTOM LINE: Aqua Vitae Forte is like the second cousin of Puredistance WHITE, which I love. Except this perfume is a bit lighter and ethereal, but equally as romantic and beautiful.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody Spicy
Noses: Francis Kurkdjian
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $275 for 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Arielle Shoshona