fragrance | The Scented Hound

July 26, 2013
by The Scented Hound 20 Comments

Les Nombres d’Or Violette Fumee by Mona di Orio Parfums

WHAT I SMELL: Violette Fumee opens with the most beautiful lavender and bergamot combination; it’s herbal and refreshing in a creamy comforting way. After a few minutes, the fragrance starts to warm and become deeper as a beefy oakmoss emerges from the bottom that envelopes and seems to fold over the lavender. After about 10 minutes or so, the violet seems to make an appearance from the edge of the fragrance. I know this is going to sound strange, but it’s appearance is like prairie dogs popping their head out of the ground. What I mean is that the violet doesn’t come out at once, but seems to pop in and out until eventually you feel like you are surrounded by violets tinged with rose. Violette Fumee at this point still retains its creaminess but it becomes slightly brighter without becoming sheer. What I love about this is that the herbal aspects of the fragrance keep this from becoming too floral and pretty which allow Violette Fumee to retain a substantive elegance. After some time, the myrrh and opoponax emerge from below and a slight suede provides for a beautiful finish to this multi-faceted fragrance.

Violette Fumee Notes:

Top notes: Mediterranean Lavender, Bergamot from Calabria, Oakmoss from the Balkans

Heart notes: Violet flowers and leaves from Egypt, Turkish Rose, Veitver from Haiti, Clary Sage

Base notes; Opoponax and Myrrh from Somalis, Cashmeran

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A page from a 19th century botanical illustrative leather bound book.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE VIOLETTE FUMEE: transformative, calming, elegant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VIOLETTE FUMEE: Cafleurebon

BOTTOM LINE: Violet fragrances have not been my friend in the past as I find that they are typically too feminine for my taste. Violette Fumee breaks that mold. The violet doesn’t completely dominate and take over in a sweet and simplistic fashion. The first time I wore this, I really liked it, but the 2nd time I have to say that I loved it. Voilette Fumee is an elegant and substantial fragrance, that holds layers upon layers of wonderful surprises.

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Fougere
Classification: Unisex
Expense: EdP Intense to be launched in September 2013

Promotional sample provided by Mona Di Orio Parfums.

July 21, 2013
by The Scented Hound 20 Comments

Orangers en Fleurs by Houbigant

WHAT I SMELL: Orangers en Fleurs opens with the most beautiful warm orange blossom and rose. It’s rich and thick and deep in its construct. Much too quickly for my taste however, the tuberose comes into play. Don’t get me wrong, it doesn’t dominate, but it makes its present known and as many of you know, I’m not a big fan of tuberose. Thankfully, my fears subside as after about five minutes, Orangers en Fleurs begins to brighten. There is a tinge of wood and spice that seemed to be layered below the floral aspects giving the fragrance some dimension. I like the fact that it seems that every time I bring my wrist to my nose I smell a different floral; one time jasmine, the other rose… tuberose, etc. all mixed with orange blossom. Continuing on, I find that there is almost a brown sugar (maybe the nutmeg) note that emerges that gives it a slightly gourmand trait that makes this seem slightly crystalized. In the end, the surprisingly projectable drydown wraps the floral in a warm and cozy musk. Absolutely beautiful.

Orangers en Fleurs notes from the Houbigant website:

Head notes: Orange Blossom Absolute, Rose Absolute, Egyptian Jasmine Absolute

Heart Notes: Tuberose, Eau de Brouts, Ylang Comores, Nutmeg

Base Notes: Cedar wood, Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The Floradora Girls

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ORANGERS EN FLEURS: comforting, pretty, classic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ORANGERS EN FLEURS: Pink Sith, The Women’s Room, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE: Orangers en Fleurs was a big surprise which thankfully wasn’t taken over by the tuberose which I cite in my description above, nor did it get sweet or soapy. This may go on my wish list for a FB. I just wish Houbigant would have offered this in a smaller than 100ml bottle. Overall, good job Houbigant!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Floral
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $180 for 100ml EdP

July 20, 2013
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

Paradis Perdu by Frapin

WHAT I SMELL: Paradis Perdu opens with citrus and bergamot that’s not bright, but instead is sour and slightly biting. The galbanum quickly then becomes evident; its mossy green and very direct and the fragrance remains sharp and biting. After a bit, the green becomes more hay like and Paradis Perdue becomes a bit dryer and more woody; it’s sheer and light and completely meh. This is basically where the development of the fragrance ends.

From the Frapin website:

Created with the vitality of Art nouveau, Paradis Perdu is an ode to the vineyards around the property. The perfumer, Amélie Bourgeois, drew her inspiration from the expanses of land, conjuring effervescence with curved lines, somewhere between gushing and encircling.

Paradis Perdu Notes (from Fragrantica):

Top notes are Bergamot, Grapefruit, Citron, Yellow Mandarin, Leaf Blend (Basil, Spinach, Vine, Ravensara), Galbanum, Elemi, Paradisamide, Vetiver, Hay, Virginia Cedarwood, Rosewood, Labdanum, Precious Woods, Mosses, Musks

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A yawn.