fragrance | The Scented Hound

January 29, 2015
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

Guerlain Shalimar Souffle de Parfum

I love Shalimar and the intoxicating effect is has on me; it stands out in my collection as a classic and revered masterpiece. So when I reached down in my big bag of untested samples and saw the sample of Shalimar Souffle de Parfum I immediately thought to myself that I was going to hate it. I admit, that I was being prejudicial prior to testing this, but the words “souffle” and “Shalimar” together had me very concerned. Shalimar is delightfully refined and adult…I am wondering if this new flanker was mean to bring the kiddies into the big time…maybe like the perfumed Joe Camel?!

Peeps

WHAT I SMELL: Tangy lemon and then a buttered orange creme that’s surprisingly rich, lush, gourmand and inviting. I like the fact that there’s a sweetness about the opening that is rooted in the lemon, but without a high dosage of sugar. There’s also a wonderful shimmering hue that makes the fragrance sparkle. After around 10 minutes the jasmine takes center stage, it’s clean and fresh and topped by the citrus. I have to say that the fragrance thus far feels like a big chemical concoction. However, in this case, that’s not a bad thing. After another 5 minutes, Souffle (as I’ll call it from here out) starts to grown in projection. There’s a creaminess that comes forward combined with vanilla that makes the perfume feel like a cross between an egg custard and a Peep. The white musk adds a dryer sheet effect to the perfume which again, I feel like the combination of the Peeps, dryer sheets, etc. should make this a wreck. Well, it’s not. It’s just a flanker that is targeted to a younger audience and in that case, I would say that it works. In the end, Souffle is a lemony tart souffle that’s bright and sunny.

From Guerlain:

inspired by a fabulous Indian love story, Jacques Guerlain created the legendary Shalimar perfume in 1925. Now, Thierry Wasser has breathed new life into this legendary perfume, taking it to the heights of sensuality. A luminous, modern creation with notes of jasmine, vanilla and white musk.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: An Easter basket.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SHALIMAR SOUFFLE DE PARFUM: happy, fresh, fluffy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SHALIMAR SOUFFLE DE PARFUM: Now Smell This, Colognoisseur, The Candy Perfume Boy

BOTTOM LINE: If you remove yourself from trying to compare this to the original Shalimar you’ll find that this is a nice light treat that’s perfect for a younger audience. And I have to say that the name fits perfectly…this is a souffle of a perfume!

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Thierry Wasser
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $100 for 1.7 oz. Eau de Parfum

January 27, 2015
by The Scented Hound 3 Comments

Bois 1920 Vetiver Ambrato

WHAT I SMELL: Vetiver Ambrato opens with bergamot, warmed cloves and spiced geranium; it’s very cozy and rather masculine. After a couple of minutes, the fragrance becomes almost mentholated as the lavender and vetiver blend into an amber finish with just a slight sour touch of patchouli. There’s a tobacco that makes its way into the mix and a mild booziness and a bit of finished old world leather. After 15 minutes, the fragrance lightens and become more powdery as a light vanilla adds just the right amount of sweetness without adding any heaviness. In the end, the Bois 1920 is a powdered dusting of comfort.

From the Bois 1920 website:

Elegantly and profoundly seductive.

An absolutely masculine perfume that embodies all the power and mystery of modern man.

These suggestions of the fragrant architecture of an eau de toilette make their debut with sparkling, tonic notes towards a warm and spicy middle note to conclude with a virile, provocative top note that surprises again and again.

Top: Bergamot, Lemon, Petitgrain, Cloves, Geranium, Artemisia
Heart: Patchouly, Lavender, Vetyver, Sandalwood, Cedarwood
Dry down: Tobacco leaves, Musk, Amber, Vanilla, Benzoin, Labdanum, Galbanum

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Your grandfathers favorite chair at the cabin at the lake; it’s worn and comfy and smells of pipe, wood and lots of wonderful living.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE VETIVER AMBRATO: comfy, easy-going, secure

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VETIVER AMBRATO: NotableScents, ChickenFreak’s Obsession

BOTTOM LINE: This is a vetiver scent that’s not all about vetiver and it’s an amber scent that’s not all about amber. What you get is a nice combination of muted qualities from both. So if you don’t like truly green vetiver fragrances or heavy and brown amber scents, this might be just the right fragrance for you!

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Woody
Nose: Enzo Galardi
Classification: Unisex, but leans masculine
Expense: Varies greatly per store or site. Eau de Toilette.

January 23, 2015
by The Scented Hound 5 Comments

Gucci Guilty Pour Homme

WHAT I SMELL: Gucci Guilty opens with skin bracing bergamot and citrus laden lavender (thankfully the lavender is light). Within a few minutes there’s a sugared layer of wood and patchouli added to the mix. At this point, Gucci Guilty is rather buoyant, refreshing and very accessible. After around 5 minutes, the sugared aspects begin to disappear and the fragrance flattens and becomes more woody and a bit salty, which is a nice touch as it makes the scent feel more part of your body than something that’s just sitting above it. I was expecting Gucci Guilty to be big and in your face. Instead, it’s surprisingly muted and understated making it very easy to wear.

From the Gucci website:

a contemporary fougère fragrance
top notes of lavender and lemon
heart note of orange flower
base notes of cedar wood and patchouli

Easy Living

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Living in uncomplicated ease.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE GUCCI GUILTY: easy, understated, unremarkable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GUCCI GUILTY: Now Smell This, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE: With a name like “Guilty,” one would expect a fragrance that is decadent to say the least. In spite of its name, Gucci Guilty is about a harmless as a kitten. For a men’s fragrance, it’s OK as there is nothing unique about it which is too bad, because the opening starts off rather promising. But in the end, you’re left with a pretty quiet perfume that’s “just nice.”

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Aromatic Fougere
Nose: Jacques Huclier
Classification: Masculine
Expense: Varies. $62 for 50 ml Eau de Toilette