floral | The Scented Hound

July 25, 2016
by The Scented Hound 22 Comments

Ex Nihilo Sweet Morphine

WHAT I SMELL: Sweet Morphine makes good on its promise as being addictive as it opens sweet, soft, gentle and powdery with a feeling of spun cotton candy without the confectionaried sugar. Lilac is listed as the top note, but I rarely get lilac out of the perfume, but instead a powdered and pretty iris surrounded by fringes of succulent green. After a few minutes, the light opening (which almost begs for you to apply more on because you believe it’s going to disappear) makes way for a vanilla laced iris and mimosa floral that moves from demure and softly spun to a much rounder and slightly thickened and slightly creamy candied state. The perfume then assumes a woody based, but resting on top of the wood remains the sweet and lightly peachy and powdered floral that makes this the addictive morphine it’s named after.

From the Ex Nihilo website:

SWEET MORPHINE, the embodiment of a self assumed but ambivalent femininity, at once delicate yet lascivious.

It’s floral bloom melts on the skin with a dark and addictive woody vanilla background.

A subtle bouquet tenderly perverted by a very captivating carnal lightness.

Notes:

Top – Lilac

Heart – Iris

Base – Wood Accord, Vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A sexy (not slutty) nurse. I’m ready for my shot of sweet morphine!

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SWEET MORPHINE: current, uncomplicated, accessible

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SWEET MORPHINE: Colognoisseur, Kafkaesque

BOTTOM LINE: Sweet Morphine has a very modern sensibility and is incredibly delicious for a non-gourmand fragrance. Every time I wear this perfume it morphs just a little different each time; sometimes it’s a bit sweeter, sometimes it’s more demure, but it is always just the right amount of sexy.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Nathalie Gracia-Cetto
Classification: Leans feminine
Expense: $225 for 50 ml eau de parfum

July 19, 2016
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

New Release: Hiram Green Dilettante

WHAT I SMELL: My first impression of Dilettante begins with a light earthy soil note mixed with a minty soapiness resting on top. Quickly, the earthy moves towards a green tinted orange blossom that at first is rather linear and flattened, but as it progresses becomes puffed liked a cloud with just the lightest of sweetness. The perfume at this point has a very carefree bounce about it. Dilettante is seemingly happy, at the same time it feels like its holding a secret and it’s not going to let you know why it’s in such a good mood, but there’s a reason for it…it’s just not telling! Soon a bit of mentholated tuberose comes to join the orange, but there’s only just a little to add just the right amount of texture and spice. The perfume then begins to deepen and expand. What was so much sun and fun now becomes contemplative. Here the perfume rests its feet under the late afternoon sun with a warm embrace of orange blossom met with an ambered hue and a buttery honeyed finish.

From the Hiram Green website:

It is the sun shining on the rain and the rain falling on the sunshine…

Frances Hodgson Burnett

Inspired by such simple pleasures as a stroll through a luscious garden after a rain shower, Hiram Green’s latest perfume, Dilettante, is an enchanted and light-hearted celebration of summer.

Based on a triptych of orange flower, petitgrain and essential oil of orange, Dilettante is an all-natural fruity and floral eau de parfum that is fresh and sweet throughout.

Still Life with Orange Chair – Anne Redpath

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Orange Blossom comfort.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE DILETTANTE: relaxing, reassuring, at-peace

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DILETTANTE: Kafkaesque, CaFleureBon, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: Hiram Green does it again. The fact that he doesn’t rush the creation process with numerous and frequent releases is apparent as his perfumes are consistently well blended and full of depth. Dilettante is the perfect antidote for those hot, hazy quiet days of summer.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Hiram Green
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $165 for 50 ml eau de parfum

June 6, 2016
by The Scented Hound 9 Comments

Shalini Parfum by Shalini

WHAT I SMELL: Shalini opens beautifully with an initial rush of neroli that’s lush, juicy and lightly sun sweetened. A lovely tiare buzzes above a lightly sharpened hair spray note of sandalwood and there’s a slight soapiness that encompasses the somewhat large, but rather tame florals. The perfume lives in this slightly soapy, lightly warm cocoon for some time. After around 20 minutes, the perfume seems to warm considerably, as if the heat of skin is a catalyst to start a chemical reaction. The tuberose then starts to make its entrance, but in a very soft and deliberate manner as if it’s in no rush. The tuberose is restrained with all its pungent attributes removed and what you’re left with is the soft and comforting light waxiness from the flower. At the same time, Shalini starts to turn towards the green as the floral stems add just the right amount of color to make the perfume feel as if it’s a bouquet rather than just a collection of flowers. As the perfume slowly progresses, the neroli comes forward once again with a light dew to rest on the green. Here the perfume resides, so restrained, so beautiful and so refined. Shalini is a lady in every sense of the word.

From Shalini Parfums:

A bouquet of white flowers – tuberose, neroli and tiare – this precious fragrances evokes an intoxicating sensuality. The rare and pure scent of neroli blooms above the heart of tuberose and tiare while the depth and mystery of sandalwood and musk permeate the senses.

Saks 5th Avenue, Los Angeles- 1940

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Beautiful, classic Hollywood interiors. Architectural masterpieces designed for creating dramatic settings. The scene: Sak’s 5th Avenue, Los Angeles, 1940… in comes a beautifully dressed, regal and gracious lady and all eyes are transfixed.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SHALINI: warm, approachable, refined

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SHALINI: CaFleureBon, Perfume-Smellin’ Things

BOTTOM LINE: Shalini is an ethereal beauty that glides into a room. The perfume doesn’t develop as much as it transcends. Shalini is like a dream.

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral
Nose: Maurice Roucel
Classification: Feminine. Confession: As feminine as this is, it’s a beauty that I would have no problem wearing myself.
Expense: $3,000 for the limited edition Lalique flacon pictured above. $250 for 10 ml version. Parfum extrait.