floral woody musk | The Scented Hound

September 24, 2015
by The Scented Hound 2 Comments

Madame de Pompadour by Maison Nicolas de Barry

WHAT I SMELL: Madame de Pompadour opens with a green bouquet of big florals dominated by a warm and slightly mentholated tuberose. As big as the combination of florals is, the perfume feels light and airy and as if sunlit through and an elegantly draped window. The perfume is warm and inviting, mature but yet still carefree like it’s full of laughter. After around 10 minutes the perfume begins to become more powdery and dry. But thankfully, this does not dilute the florals, but instead brings forth a more sweetened and condensed bouquet where the iris starts to come towards the front. Here, the perfume becomes more delicate and more ladylike. But as soon as I say that, a warm amber begins to sit at the base which really makes the perfume project. Madame de Pompadour has an aura of grace and femininity combined with a substantial confidence. In the end the perfume softens becomes a powder puff of florals…only to move into a rather hefty soapiness.

From the Maison Nicolas de Barry website:

The iris flower dominates the head and bouquet brings together the favorite flowers of the Marquise: rose, jasmine, gardenia, violet, hyacinth, daffodil, carnation and tuberose. The iris and amber persistent nature give more elegance to this powdered mix. The iris flower dominates the top notes and the bouquet is a collection of the favorite flowers of the Marquees: roses, jasmine, gardenia, violet , hyacinth, daffodil and tuberous. Iris and amber in wide quantities to give this bouquet has more powdered elegance.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The beautiful Madame de Pompadour matches perfectly with the fragrance whom it is named for.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE MADAME de POMPADOUR: graceful, classic, refined

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT MADAME de POMPADOUR: Parfumistans Blogg, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: Oh my, Madame de Pompadour had me in her spell until the final drydown when the soap appeared. She is a beauty for sure, but if you have any aversion to soap in your perfume, you may want to stay away.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Noses: Nicolas de Barry and Eddy Blanchet
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $149 Euros for 100 ml Eau de Parfum

August 19, 2015
by The Scented Hound 14 Comments

Hedonist Iris by Viktoria Minya

WHAT I SMELL: Hedonist Iris opens up with a soft and clean blackcurrent that seem to be wrapped within green stems. A white musk sits on top of the blackcurrent like a cotton ball which seems to be drying out the juice of the fruit. In fact, the perfume is surprisingly dry and it quickly begins to powder which helps to make the perfume project. The iris here is radiant; there is nothing dirty or earthen about it. And the iris is Iris butter, which gives the floral a smooth finish that’s rather weighty. After around 15 minutes, the musk really come into play giving Hedonist Iris a rather clean and sparkling glow.

From the Viktoria Minya website:

A romantic perfume for a graceful woman who cares for sensual luxury. The essence of this pure fragrance is the most expensive natural raw material of all – Iris butter. Its cool elegance is laced with tantalizing notes of cocoa and blackcurrant absolute and crowned by a fine blend of musks.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Think pink…Hedonist Iris is all Glinda the Good Witch of the North

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE HEDONIST IRIS: uber-feminine, gentile, clean

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HEDONIST IRIS: Megan in Saint Maxime, Olfactoria’s Travels, The Non-Blonde

BOTTOM LINE: This perfume has me perplexed; on one hand the perfume is extremely feminine, but there’s almost a childlike quality as if the perfume is not suited not for a woman, but instead is best suited for a young lady of unintended virtue. Obviously, I’m not the intended audience.

Bone Rating: 2.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Nose: Viktoria Minya
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $200 for 45 ml Eau de Parfum

August 12, 2015
by The Scented Hound 8 Comments

An Air of Despair by Imaginary Authors

WHAT I SMELL: An Air of Despair opens with a warmed cedar and a wonderfully peppered saffron as well a white musk linen that sits right underneath the spiced wood. It’s quite close to the skin and slightly mysterious. In a short while, the perfume does begin to grow and project as it becomes more blended. After some more time there’s a slight rubbery consistency that comes forward, but for the most part, the perfume lives in this cedar box wrapped up in a dry gauzy musk.

From the Imaginary Author’s website:

When Vivian Gwyn’s parents mysteriously disappear one month before her eighteenth birthday it foils an elaborate plan she had to kill them herself. In her search for clues as to their whereabouts she finds an elegant mink coat and a safe full of valuables in her mother’s cedar closet. Keeping the coat but selling everything else, she embarks on a glamorous adventure that takes her from the small Tennessee town where she grew up to luxurious penthouses in Manhattan, runways in Milan, and finally the castle in Switzerland from which she learns she is a descendant. No expense is spared in Viv’s valiant quest to shake the sadness that plagued her upbringing and she quickly learns it’s not riches that bring happiness but happiness that brings riches.

NOTES: Cedar, Saffron, Musk & Sadness

WHEN TO WEAR: Embrace your summertime sadness. An Air of Despair will lift you up inside while keeping the outward despondency that makes you so desirable in tact. @allbaddays #eternallybummed

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The official perfume of Twin Peak’s Laura Palmer.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE AN AIR OF DESPAIR: Northwestern, boxy, singular

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT AN AIR OF DESPAIR: CaFleureBon, Brooklyn Fragrance Lover

BOTTOM LINE: Josh Meyer’s limited summer release makes you feel that fall is just around the corner and that the cool, bleak rain stained sky will soon be upon us. I guess An Air of Despair actually is the perfect name isn’t it?!

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Nose: Josh Meyer
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $55 for 30 ml Limited Release Eau de Parfum

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary