floral woody musk | The Scented Hound

July 5, 2016
by The Scented Hound 15 Comments

New Release: L’Atessa by Masque Milano

WHAT I SMELL: L’Attesa opens with a flattened bergamot with a slightly soured neroli that feels waxy, slightly yeasty and thickened like a styrofoam cushion. After a short time, a faint iris begins to appear, floating in a thin layer under the rest of the perfume. Soon the iris begins to grow and expand as it takes center stage. This is a warmed iris and a rather creamy one at that. The iris is soon met with a melding of other florals and the perfume starts to feel as if it’s a warmed scarf wrapped around the neck. The perfume radiates, but it’s very subdued and incredibly comforting. After around 10 minutes, a peppered suede wraps itself over the florals. It’s smooth and sensual and as it continues to develop the creaminess moves to a powder and the perfume pulls out all moisture. At this time, there’s a lightly sweetened powdered lipstick edge to the perfume which I really like. Eventually, the perfume settles in this powdered projection over a smooth and hazy slightly soured sandalwood.

From the Masque Milano website:

Act III Scene One

All is set for the rendezvous.

The soft lights seem to fondle the wrinkled sound of the old vinyl disc, and play hide-and-seek in the warm embrace of the jazz singer’s voice. The wide french-window is opened on the terrace. Outside, only the cicadas shrill drowning and the warm summer breeze. On the tea-table, a nosegay of freshly plucked flowers, flooding the room with a cocktail of smells and a bright colour palette. You uncork a champagne bottle and fill the two flutes. The unmistakable flavour of yeast hovers in the air. You settle into the couch, to enjoy this moment, and take a good look around – every single detail is simply perfect. You then close your eyes, breathe deeply, listen to the sound of her steps on the stairs. Can’t help smiling. You wish these moments would never end. There comes a knock on the door.

Head notes: Italian Bergamot, Moroccan Neroli, Champagne accord

Heart notes: Italian Iris abs., Italian Iris Root Butter, French Iris Root Butter, Tuberose abs., Ylang Ylang Madagascar

Base notes: Sandalwood Mysore, Oakmoss, Leather accord

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A beautiful, graceful and majestic Lippizan Stallion.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE L’ATTESA: dramatic, unique, passionate

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT L’ATTESA: Kafkaesque, Megan in Sainte Maxime, Chemist in the Bottle

BOTTOM LINE: L’Attesa unfolds in he most beautiful manner. It’s exquisite in its blending of the warmed iris and florals. My one wish is that it would have remained in the middle state of the creamy florals for the remainder of the perfume. However, that doesn’t distract from the perfume which is wonderfully different and unique. Also, kudos to Masque Milano for their new bottles which easily match the perfume in terms of beauty.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Nose: Luca Maffei
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $165 for 35 ml eau de parfum

Sample courtesy of Masque Milano. Opinion my own.

June 15, 2016
by The Scented Hound 10 Comments

Sud Magnolia by Atelier Cologne

WHAT I SMELL: Sud Magnolia initially reveals a bitter orange and soured citrus accord that’s ripe, juicy and fresh as well as a berried note that is green from the stem. Quickly, the perfume becomes warmer, like the citrus opening has been warmed in the sun. Still juicy, the perfume moves towards the more floral with a soft magnolia making its presence known. There’s a cottony freshness about the perfume which reminds me of sun laden sheets on a clothesline. The freshness of the sun, combined with the warm breezes fill the sheets with a warmed comfort. As the perfume develops, the magnolia blooms, but very subtly. This magnolia is a real lady, strolling through the hot sun under a parasol shielding herself from the blinding heat and light. Slow to continue her journey, Sud Magnolia begins to become a tad sweeter and once again feels touched with a dewy freshness. Eventually, a very subdued woody musk eases in to complete this stroll under the Magnolia tree.

Top notes : bitter orange from Seville, pomelo from Florida, blackcurrant from Burgundy

Heart notes : magnolia from Louisiana, Bulgarian rose absolue, saffron flower from India

Base notes : atlas cedarwood from Morocco, sandalwood from New Caledonia, musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A stroll through the streets of New Orleans with the springtime Japanese Magnolias in full bloom.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE SUD MAGNOLIA: comforting, fresh, genteel

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SUD MAGNOLIA: Mostly Sunny, Chemist in the Bottle, Scent of Abricots

BOTTOM LINE: Sud Magnolia is a nice interpretation of magnolia that is fresh and soft. My only regret is that it dissipates quickly on my skin to a rather innocuous musk.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Nose: Jerome Epinette
Classification: Leans Feminine
Expense: $125 for 3.3 oz. Cologne Absolue

May 9, 2016
by The Scented Hound 10 Comments

New Release: Night Flower by Eris Parfums

WHAT I SMELL: Sex sells…and the Eris Parfums line is all about sex. But before I get ahead of myself…on the skin, Night Flower is initially very sweet and sparkling, then quickly a warm and voluptous cardamom that’s seems to be wrapped in a light coating of honey comes rushing forward. The perfume is wonderfully sexy at this point, rather like the movement of a silken slip that playfully falls off the shoulders. There’s a warmth to the perfume, but the warmth feels like it’s generating from the skin vs. the perfume. After 10 minutes, a dirtied light leather moves its way in. The leather adds another dimension of seduction as the playfulness of the opening moves towards a more serious tone. After some more time, the perfume seems to recede and darken as you’ll need to lean in close to experience its hidden mysteries. In the end, the perfume is this quiet whisper of a burning ember of patchouli. It feels like at any time, the spark of the fire could explode and burst out of control.

From the Eris Parfums website:

NIGHT FLOWER Eau de Parfum opens with a blast of fresh, aromatic cardamom. Animalic leather and suede wrap around a narcotic Indian tuberose, drying down to a cozy base of birch tar, patchouli, cinnamon and tonka.

“Night Flower is a leathery, animalic floral fragrance. Spellbinding, sexual and addictive.” – Antoine Lie (Perfumer)

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Natalie Wood as Deanie in Splendor in the Grass…a girl stuck between love, lust and trying to remain good.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE NIGHT FLOWER: come-hither, tempered, controlled

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT NIGHT FLOWER: Indieperfumes, The Non-Blonde, Katie Puckrick Smells

BOTTOM LINE: Letting your inner sexual self reveal itself is easy to do with the new line of Eris Parfums. Night Flower is my favorite in the line and is probably the most tame of the three in the collection. But there’s just enough hidden mystery to make one just feel that you’re letting your dark side come out to play.

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Floral Woody Musk
Nose: Antoine Lie
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $150 for 50 ml eau de parfum