The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.

Tag Archives: Feminine


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Christmas Elegance – Paper White by DSH Perfumes

For years, the start of the holiday season has included the tradition of putting paperwhite (narcissus) bulbs in a rock filled pot so that by the time Christmas is here, we’ll be greeted by the delicate flowers on sinewy stems.  These white flowers, though small in size, create a wonderful and powerful aroma that fills the room.  I was thrilled to see that DSH made tribute to paperwhites, the simple flowers that even in the midst of winter, their delicate blooms give hope and light to the coming spring.

WHAT I SMELL:   Paper White graces the skin with soft and lightly sweet delicate honeyed tinged florals.  The perfume is green without being sharp and very quickly after opening, the narcissus begins to open and bloom on the skin.  There’s a warmth of orris root at the base of the shining florals and it provides the perfect sense of comfort.  Even though the perfume is comforting, that doesn’t mean it’s like wearing a set flannel pajamas; instead, the perfume exudes grand elegance.  Paper White is like a shimmering evening dress under glittering and flickering candlelight.  As the perfume continues to develop, the warm heart fills the nostrils with a powdery oakmoss.  I can say that wearing Paper White will easily become on of my new Christmas traditions.

From the DSH websites:

A bright sparkling green opening reveals a crepe-like paper / narcissus heart.   It’s a fresh, modern take on the Spring Narcissus concept that dries down to a soft, green chypre in the base.

Notes:  Earl Grey Natural (Accord), Green Narcissus (accord), Iris / Orris, Jonquil Absolute, Papyrus,  Rice Paper (accord), Australian Sandalwood, Green Oakmoss, Mysore Sandalwood, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Narcissus Absolute, Bergamot, Tunisian Neroli.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:   Delicate paperwhites of course.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PAPER WHITE:  elegant, stunning, comforting

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PAPER WHITE:  I Scent You a Day

BOTTOM LINE:  Although Caron’s Narcisse Noir and Narcisse Blanc capture narcissus’s rather sharp edges, I believe that makes them both a harder wear.  To me, Paper White embodies the heart of the flower with a soft and more approachable manner.  I love its elegance and grace…it’s just so wonderfully pretty.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Nose:  Dawn Spencer Horowitz
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense: Review based on the Vol de Parfum version.  $125 for 30m.  Also available in extrait and eau de parfum via the DSH website.

Merry Christmas to you and yours from The Scented Hound.


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Sana Jardin Revolution de la Fleur

WHAT I SMELL:  Revolution de la Fleur opens with a delightful sweetened frangipani that’s evened out with a delicate and subtle rose.  It’s buttery and tropical and feels as if it’s kissed by the sun.  The frangipani has a bit of a candied essence, like that of a hard candied necklace and overall it provides the sensation of an explosion of color which equals pure happiness.  Revolution De La Fleur doesn’t so much develop as bloom.  As it wears, a beautiful ylang-ylang places itself at the center, like the queen of the tropics.  Here the perfume settles, less sweet but complete floral radiance as the scent of the flowers float as if on a breeze in the heat of the afternoon.  In the end, a bit of vanilla keeps the perfume slightly sweet and keeps the flowers (the frangipani, ylang-ylang and what seems to be a tuberose) remaining intact and a light sandalwood provides for just a hint of spice.

Notes from the Sana Jardin website:

Top: Rose, Frangipani
Heart: Neroli, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine
Base: Vanilla Bean Extract, Sandalwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Tropical happiness.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE REVOLUTION DE LA FLEUR:  sun-sweet, tropical, buttery

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT REVOLUTION DE LA FLEUR:  Now Smell This, Persolaise

BOTTOM LINE:  Revolution de la Fleur is a pretty perfume that will delight those who love a good tropical perfume.  But with these heady florals, it’s important to remember that when wearing it, a little goes a long way.  When applied correctly, the perfume is incredibly delightful.  You should also note that Sana Jardin perfumes are all natural.  And for being all natural, this perfume has incredible lasting power.  Oh, and the bottles are simply elegant…always a nice touch as far as I’m concerned.

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Floral
  • Classification: Leans feminine
  • Expense:  Starting at £ 180, available in 50ml or 100ml eau de parfum from the Sana Jardin website.


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Joy Eau de Parfum by Jean Patou

WHAT I SMELL:    Joy (current version eau de parfum) is truly a joy when it first goes on the skin as it’s full of lush ylang-ylang and soapy white flowers and bright aldehydes.  It’s a clean smell and one that’s slightly metallic.  The florals are wrapped up in warmth, but at the same time there is a coolness or a bit of aloofness that makes the perfume proper and rather removed.  After some time, a light controlled rose blends with the metallic notes and the soapiness begins to dissipate.  As Joy continues its slow and deliberate path, a jasmine blends itself with the rose…but combined, they’re still very controlled and incredibly proper.  Joy doesn’t transform or morph very much, but in the end, the florals fade and soften a bit, and what you’re left is a lightly warm breeze of light floral sandalwood musk.

From the Jean Patou website:

Created in 1930 at the height of the economic crisis. Joy, a sumptuous blend of roses and jasmine, is the antidote to gloom. Conceived as a perfume to reveal the essence of femininity of every woman, “Joy” is a timeless fragrance, the signature of the house Jean Patou.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Floral steel.  A bit soft, yet rather hard.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE JOY:  controlled, reserved, distant

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT JOY: There are many reviews on Joy, but I haven’t found any on the current eau de parfum version.

BOTTOM LINE:  Joy is legendary as the pillar of the house of Jean Patou.  That said, I can’t honestly say that I don’t know anyone who continues to wear the perfume.  Classics don’t always transfer well to the modern age and to me, Joy is a bit too removed in its personality.  However, I’ll admit that I have a vintage bottle of the eau de cologne version from the 1970s.  It’s clearly Joy, but it’s a much lighter wear as the florals aren’t tinged with the metallic edge and it’s just so much easier to like (but not love as it still leaves me a bit cold).

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Henri Almeras
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  Varies