Feminine | The Scented Hound

January 25, 2016
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

New Releases: Constance & Quentin by Deco London Perfumes

CONSTANCE

WHAT I SMELL: Constance opens with the most inviting deep mandarin floral combination; it’s gorgeous, big, beautiful and rather buttery…and it’s thick and juicy and completely rapturous…oh, I could keep on going! In a short time, the thick sheen of juice soon begins to thin and soften and the rather fruity opening moves to a light spice with jasmine at the heart. Constance remains incredibly pretty, but the big, and bold moves towards the more mysterious and exotic. Vanilla sets the tone moving forward, but with a light hand. The perfume is so incredibly warm and inviting and it feels as if it pulses off the skin as if it were an extension of one’s being. Additionally, a bit of labdanum adds just the right amount of amber like dimension keeping the vanilla in check. In the end, Constance is this intoxicating warm and exotic floral that’s spiced, lightly powdered and incensed. Constance is a head turner and absolutely beautiful.

From the Deco London website:

…perfect for those who love fruity and spicy scents, jasmine, luxury woods and vanilla…

The year is 1927…Constance is vivacious, passionate and chic; effortlessly elegant in tailored blouses and trousers during the day, but at night she is the centre of attention in an Egyptian-inspired beaded dress, red lipstick and daring high heels …

Top – Bergamot, Mandarin Blossom, Mimosa

Middle – Raspberry Blossom, Rose, Pink Pepper, Jasmine, Patchouli

Base – Sandalwood, Labdanum, Vanilla, Beeswax, Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A woman of mystery…Mata Hari.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CONSTANCE: intoxicating, rapturous, temptress (OK, so that’s a noun)

Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Woody
Nose: Robertet
Classification: Feminine, but I could see a man wearing this as well.
Expense: $120 for 50ml eau de parfum. Exclusively sold in the US by Indigo Perfumery.

QUENTIN

WHAT I SMELL: Quentin opens with a rather funky herbal tarragon and a cinnamon that mixed together is bold and smells a little off. This initial funk makes me wonder what kind of ride I’m in for. Soon enough, the herbal discordant opening starts to even out the rough edges and the mixture moves from the funkified to a more flattened woodiness and light leather. At this stage, the perfume is really dry and the leather is front and center and a woody vetiver takes its place next to it. In addition, a patchouli adds just a light sweetness to the perfume, but it chooses to stay in the background. For some time, there’s a noticeable petroleum smell, as if the leather was cured in oil and grease. But as the perfume develops, that starts to dissipate and a floral warmth takes its place. On paper, this smelled a great deal to me like Miss Dior. On my skin however, I am thinking not so much…that is until around 30 minutes into the wear. And that’s a good thing. Miss Dior rocks my world and it is about as masculine of a woman’s perfume as there is. As the perfume continues to develop, it becomes less Miss Dior and ends up in this petroleum fueled leather spiced musk. Quentin is a traditional scent fortified with just the right amount of daring.

From the Deco London website:

…perfect for those who love assertive elegant woody scents, leather notes and musk…

The year is 1925… Quentin is charming, stylish and impeccably attired and is always impeccably attired in flamboyant style. You will often find him relaxing by day at the cricket drinking a fine Sauvignon blanc and at parties by night sipping champagne…

Top notes: Bergamot, Cinnamon Bark, Tarragon

Heart notes: Carnation, Geranium, Patchouli

Base notes: Moss, Leather, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Musk

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The original Red Baron, Manfred von Richthofen.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE QUENTIN: bold, self-assured, headstrong

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Woody Spicy
- Nose: Robertet
Classification: Masculine
- Expense: $120 for 50ml eau de parfum. Exclusively sold in the US by Indigo Perfumery.

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT DECO LONDON PERFUMES: BGirl Rhapsody

BOTTOM LINE: The Deco London line beautifully captures the essence of traditional perfumery, but with a modern sensibility. As you can see, Constance is my favorite in the line, but the feminine floral essence of Millicent comes in a close second. For the men, Quentin has that modern edge that makes it unique, but Ernest is an incredible old school classic perfume. What a great start for a new perfume house. Welcome Deco London, you’ve made quite the splash!

Samples courtesy of Indigo Perfumery.

January 20, 2016
by The Scented Hound 7 Comments

Chloé Eau de Parfum

WHAT I SMELL: Chloé opens up warm, with a slightly bathtastic rose and peony combination mixed with a restrained honey accord. My first thought is that the perfume is incredibly romantic and sensual, but it also feels very carefree without seeming juvenile. Soon in the development, there’s a magnolia note that adds a welcomed floral pop that provides a lovely compliment to the rose and peony. After around 10 minutes, a light woody accord seems to weave in and out of the perfume which helps to balance out the sweetness of the florals. As the perfume continues to develop, the projection begins to grow as does the sweetness and the powder. But by no means does the perfume overwhelm. Instead, it maintains this pretty peony spring like freshness. Chloé is an easy to wear perfume that would be the perfect perfume for any occasion.

From the Chloé website:

The heart of a blooming rose

This rose blooms with confidence and individuality, free from the usual codes. She is the original Chloé girl – warm, playful and seductive.

Chloé Eau de Parfum is our signature scent. Combined with magnolias and generous peonies, it is both honey-like and powdery on the skin. Cheeky, free and sophisticated, it vibrates with a woody tone, a touch of ambergris and a sheen of cedar scent.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Pink peonies and sunshine.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHLOÉ EAU DE PARFUM: bright, easy, effortless

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHLOÉ EAU DE PARFUM: Diary of a Perfume Addict, Mostly Sunny, Cute and Mundane

BOTTOM LINE: Chloé was a wonderful surprise for me. The understated prettiness and ease of wear makes this an anywhere and anytime perfume. As I write this review on a cold and dreary day, Chloé is a much-needed ready-made prelude to spring!

Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Noses: Amandine Marie and Michel Almairac
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $105 for 1.7 oz. Eau de Parfum

January 6, 2016
by The Scented Hound 2 Comments

Polianthes by Bottega Profumiera

WHAT I SMELL: Polianthes’ opening is soft and creamy and highlighted by a lightly spicy mentholated tuberose. There’s an underlying candied aspect from the tiare flower that adds a light spun sugar or cotton candy dimension to the perfume. After a few minutes, a woody note comes forward which decreases the light sweetness. Though full of projection, the perfume itself is not heavy nor dense. Instead, the perfume seems to hover above the skin. But as soon as I write that, I find a rather creamy buttery note comes forward that brings the perfume back to earth and what was light and ethereal now becomes a sheen of buttery vanilla tuberose with a curiously dry undertone. Here the perfume gracefully resides in its dry down. A rather lady-like, but secure, existence at that.

From the Bottega Profumeira website:

Polianthes Tuberose or in common name from Latin “Tuberosa” is the note that gives name to this perfume. “Sexy”, “heady”, “sultry”, “carnal” are the sorts of descriptions that are typically applied to tuberose perfumes, but in this case I add also “soft”, “reflective”, “independent”, “strong” like a complete woman is. All these peculiarities are in every woman and I tried to put all these facets in a single perfume. There is no sensuality without intelligence, there is no passion without strength, there is no love without independence… So the opulent white flowers of tuberose, thiaré, gardenia, jasmin match together with the solid notes of vetiver, sandalwood, teakwood…

Notes: thiaré, tuberose, gardenia, ylang-ylang, jasmin, benzoin, frankincense, amber, vanilla, teakwood, vetiver, sandalwood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The taming of the tuberose tiger.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE POLIANTHES: secure, buttery, harnessed

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT POLIANTHES: Chemist in the Bottle, BL’eauOG

BOTTOM LINE: Polianthes is the tuberose perfume for those who don’t want their tuberose to completely overwhelm or dominate. Instead it politely takes its place where it’s lovely presence is noticeable, without being overbearing.

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Maurizio Lembo
Classification: Unisex, but leans feminine
Expense: $150 for 100ml Eau de Parfum (plus 30ml travel refill)

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary