The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Voleur de Roses by L’Artisan Perfumeur

Voleur de RosesIn one of my recent posts, I discuss Olfactif and the sample offerings that they provided for their inaugural launch.  The one fragrance out of the three that I seem to be drawn to and keep testing is Velour de Roses by L’Artisan Perfumeur.

WHAT I SMELL: Voleur de Roses goes on bright.  There’s a sweet, plum and slightly citrus bergamot opening with  a minty herbal, almost hay like cedar background.  After a short while Voleur de Roses starts to then move into a warm patchouli rose.  However, this rose isn’t sweet or loud, instead its earthy and feels like a rose-bush that’s anchored in mulch.  And in fact, I almost consider this to be more patchouli than rose as the warm patchouli note dominates the drydown.  The fragrance really doesn’t morph much and it sits close to the skin without much projection.  For being so “cedarish”  it is very much a skin scent.

Voleur de Roses Notes:  patchouli, rose, plum

vintagelinen-chestWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A cedar lined chest with old and waning rose sachets stored inside.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE  VOLEUR DE ROSES:  earthy, humble, simple

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VOLEUR DE ROSES:  smellythoughts, Perfume Shrine, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE:  I really like this fragrance.  It’s distinctive and comforting.  But I just don’t know if I could pull the plug on a purchase.  I somehow have the feeling that the bottle would be neglected after time.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental Woody
  • Nose:  Michel Almairac
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: Approximately $140 for 100ml EdT


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A*Men Pure Havane by Thierry Mugler

The wonderful Undina and I swapped some samples a while back and I am slowly making my way through each and every one. It’s been a real treat.  Today’s sampling was a very nice surprise!

WHAT I SMELL:  A*Men Pure Havane opens with a wonderful sweet tobacco ladened honey.  It’s warm and delicious and oh so edible; you just want to lick it off of your skin.  This could easily have gone over the top, but it doesn’t as the labdanum and amber mixed with the vanilla and cocoa leaves this scent grounded.  It’s so full bodied, gourmand and wonderfully unique and bold.  Once this scent takes off, it remains in this state of sweetened warmth. You just can’t help but to continually sniff your wrist while wearing this.  Thankfully A*Men Pure Havane also has wonderful sillage and longevity.  Goody!

A*Men Pure Havane notes:  fresh tobacco leaves, honeyed tobacco accord, patchouli, and bitter cocoa

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Cuba 1955.  I can picture a open aired bar with rotating celing fans to drive away the heat, a Mojito, a white suit, and a large cigar.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE A*MEN PURE HAVANE:  masculine, comfortable, confident

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT A*MEN PURE HAVANE:  CaFluereBon, EauMG, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE:  This flanker is a limited edition, but can still be purchased on the Thierry Mugler website for a very reasonable $88 for 100ml bottle.  I may just be doing that.  Although I keep reading that this is similar to Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille so you might just see me at Nordstrom’s checking that out this weekend.  However, I don’t think I can get Tom Ford for $88!  Thanks Undina, I am loving this!

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental Vanilla
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Nose: Jacques Huclier
  • Expense: $88 for 100ml EdT


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Black by Comme des Garcons Play Series

I love spicy and peppery food.  I practically put Tabasco sauce on everything that I eat.  And like perfume, I would have a hard time living without it.  As much as I like spice and pepper, I don’t want to smell peppery!  As a pepper scent, Black isn’t all that bad, it’s just not my thing so I’ll try to do it justice without being too prejudiced.

WHAT I SMELL: Black goes on cool to the touch almost sweet in a fashion.  That quickly fades and a smoky incense comes to the surface.  I’m not really smelling the pepper at this point, instead it’s almost a woody incense that swirls and curls like smoke.  Eventually, the pepper comes to the surface and it’s sharp.  The incense that seemed so smoky still is there, but the punctuated sharpness of the pepper gives it all a bite.  But like the incense, the pepper seems to be a bit subdued as well.  It’s like you are waiting for the ingredients to jump out in a blast, but as each note appears it manages to contain itself without being too loud.

Black Notes:  black pepper, pepperwood, red pepper, violet, thyme, black tea, birch tar, incense, tree moss

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Dried wood boxes that have been sitting in a smokehouse storage basement, but not as they just came out of a building, but rather if had been sitting outside for a month or so to smooth out the sharper edge of the remaining smoky smell.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BLACK: dry, subdued, dusty

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BLACK: Bois de Jasmin, Grain de Musc, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: This is an interesting scent and I find that its well done if you like your scents to feel more modern and remote.  For me, it’s great for sampling but not for wearing.  Black is one of a trio of scents in the Play Series.  The other two scents are Green and Red which you can read more about in the above cited links.  I do like the playful bottle though!

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Woody Spicy
  • Classification: Leans Masculine
  • Nose: Antoine Maisondieu
  • Expense: Approximately $100 for 100ml EdT