aromatic fougere | The Scented Hound

WHAT I SMELL: Gucci Guilty opens with skin bracing bergamot and citrus laden lavender (thankfully the lavender is light). Within a few minutes there’s a sugared layer of wood and patchouli added to the mix. At this point, Gucci Guilty is rather buoyant, refreshing and very accessible. After around 5 minutes, the sugared aspects begin to disappear and the fragrance flattens and becomes more woody and a bit salty, which is a nice touch as it makes the scent feel more part of your body than something that’s just sitting above it. I was expecting Gucci Guilty to be big and in your face. Instead, it’s surprisingly muted and understated making it very easy to wear.

From the Gucci website:

a contemporary fougère fragrance
top notes of lavender and lemon
heart note of orange flower
base notes of cedar wood and patchouli

Easy Living

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Living in uncomplicated ease.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE GUCCI GUILTY: easy, understated, unremarkable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT GUCCI GUILTY: Now Smell This, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE: With a name like “Guilty,” one would expect a fragrance that is decadent to say the least. In spite of its name, Gucci Guilty is about a harmless as a kitten. For a men’s fragrance, it’s OK as there is nothing unique about it which is too bad, because the opening starts off rather promising. But in the end, you’re left with a pretty quiet perfume that’s “just nice.”

Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
Scent: Aromatic Fougere
Nose: Jacques Huclier
Classification: Masculine
Expense: Varies. $62 for 50 ml Eau de Toilette

WHAT I SMELL: Triomphe opens with a spicy bergamot and a little pepper; it’s warm and inviting and well blended. After a few minutes the rose makes it presence, but it’s really muted by the warmth of the base which is rather smooth and creamy. As time progresses, the fragrance projects the patchouli woodiness and seems to sink deeper in a warmish pool. The fragrance begins to dry out, but it’s so full-bodied with the florals that help to give this so much shape. After around 30 minutes the fragrance really dries out and that rounded floral makes way for the balsam and the patchouli takes the center stage. In the end, you’re left with a lovely slightly smoky, nutty and peppery woody scent.

From the Rance 1795 website:

Only the word Triumph could describe Napoleon’s immense glory. And Triomphe was the name of one of the perfumes François Rancé dedicated to the idol of his life.

Napoleon loved the fragrances of his native island, and François Rancé drew inspiration from these: the light perfume of citrus fruit merges with the fragrance of roses and orange blossom, adorned with Grasse jasmine and Florentine iris. Cedar wood and musk, with hints of vanilla, give the fragrance intensity.

A decoration which represents the military virtues of the Victor was etched onto the glass by a Parisian master glassmaker. It is today as it was 200 years ago.

The precious perfume is made entirely of the rarest and most highly-prized natural essences, obtained from the best years, i.e. “millésimé“(vintage) mixed, stirred and left to age according to Rancé tradition.

Head Notes: bergamot, neroli, mandarin

Heart Notes: Bulgarian Rose, magnolia, wisteria, nutmeg

Base Notes: patchouli, cistus labdanum, tolu balsam, Reunion vanilla

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: The sophisticated hound

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE TRIOMPHE: classic, classy, gentlemanly

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TRIOMPHE: None to be found. How is this possible given how fantastic this is?!

BOTTOM LINE: Rance has been operating in perfumery since the 18th Century and I can see why. If this is any indication of their products, I need to do some more exploring. And how pretty is that bottle?!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Aromatic Fougere
Classification: Masculine
Expense: $110 for 50ml EdP