The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Issara by Parfums Dusita

Dusita IssaraWHAT I SMELL:  Issara’s opening is warm and mysterious focusing around a heavenly dreamlike pine and cedar.  It also feels gently masculine along with a sense of confidence and security.  In a short while, there’s a light barber shop vibe that emerges, like hair tonic.  This helps to make the perfume feel neat and trimmed without feeling stuffy.  As the perfume continues to develop, there’s a buzzing and humming radiance that moves the perfume from the barber shop to the more herbal topped with just a hint of flattened booziness.  There’s a consistent green that sits at the base, but more of a forest vs. a floral green.  I find at this point that there’s a real beefiness to the fragrance.  But as soon as I say that, out bursts a more sparkling pine tinged with a light sugared amber and honeyed tobacco.  Here the perfume resides in the most perfect of states for a lengthy period until a light musk is added to the mix which doesn’t detract from the overall state of grace.  Where other perfumes lose their sweet spot at the heart, Issara keeps on giving throughout.  Absolutely wonderful.

From the Parfums Dusita website:

A one of a kind fresh Fougère fragrance for the free and independent spirit  – the scent with a sense for inner freedom. A fabulous perfume evoking fresh summer mornings, lush green fields, an invigorating breeze blowing through the pines …

At the Top: Brisk, fresh green Pine stirs the senses and blends joyfully with subtle, soft herbal notes for a walk in nature!

The Heart :  A rousing Coumarin accord delivers the pure country-fresh  fragrance of new-mown hay, with rich balsamic notes of the forest from Vertiver Bourbon, and the intimately mellow scent of Sylvester Pine Leaf. 

Base Notes : Played by a trio of spontaneous, earthy aromas — magical Musk, a woody Oakmoss and an extremely rare, rich natural Ambergris

Millennial DadWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The perfume for the Millenial man.  It’s a traditional male scent with a modern and softer edge.  It could easily be worn at the office (buttoned up), the virtual office (buttoned down), a night out with the boys or at the grocery store with the kids.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ISSARA:  easy, comfortable, nod-to-nostalgia

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ISSARA: Megan in Saint Maxime, Kafkaesque, The Scented Apprentice

BOTTOM LINE: I am typically a bit skeptical when I keep hearing raves about new perfumes that seem to sweep through the various perfume groups on Facebook and other sites; but Parfums Dusita with its first trio of debut perfumes really delivers on all fronts.  Melodie de L’Amour is a beautiful deep and narcotic white floral that is sensuality in a bottle and Ouhd Infini restores my faith in the use of oud which has been so completely overdone in the last couple of years.  I’m having a hard time deciding which one of these three is the true masterpiece in the collection.  Maybe they all are?!

  • Bone Rating:  4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Aromatic Fougere
  • Nose: Pissara Umavijani
  • Classification: Unisex but leans masculine
  • Expense: $295 Euros (approximately $330 US) for 50 ml parfum extrait


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Lalique Pour Homme Faune

BimgLalique Le Faune Pour Homme 75ml EDPWHAT I SMELL:  Faune’s opening is sweet with a sugared bergamot and lavender in addition to a minty green, almost toothpaste freshness.  There’s also a light spice, mixed with the soapy lavender.  The projection is big and bright and it sparkles with a beautiful sweetened herbal radiance.  As the perfume develops, the brightness calms and becomes dryer and more woody.  Still radiant, the early sparkles retires to a classic patchouli and lavender, with hints of lightly creamed vanilla.

Top notes are coriander, lavender, mandarin orange, juniper and bergamot; middle notes are pepper, anise and geranium; base notes are sandalwood, amber, patchouli, musk, vanilla, oakmoss and cedar.

Mugshot

1920’s Australian mugshot

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A well-groomed 1920’s mobster…looking good and smelling good.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE FAUNE:  jaunty, fresh, approachable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT FAUNENone to be found, except for comments on Fragrantica.

BOTTOM LINE:  Faune is a no-nonsense, easy to wear, clean and fresh perfume for men that could be worn on any occasion.  It’s light enough to wear to work, but it would also work well for a night on the town.  Faune is perfect when you don’t want to overthink what your perfume choice of the day should be.

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Aromatic Fougere
  • Nose: Philippe Romano
  • Classification: Masculine leaning towards unisex
  • Expense: Varies.  Review based on the Eau de Parfum version.


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Two from Le Galion – Whip & Special for Gentlemen

whip_le-galionWHAT I SMELL:  Whip has a wonderfully bright citrus opening. It sparkles, is lightly spicy and overall zesty, and is warmed with a light lavender which gives it a very classical feel.  I love it when a citrus fragrance can make you feel like you’re wearing a starched white shirt when you may just be wearing a t-shirt.   Whip does just that.  After around 10 minutes, the zesty opening starts to calm, and the citrus begins to meld with the delicate florals which are incredibly pretty.  There’s a heavy dose of galbanum which is mixed with an oak moss; creating a radiant haze of powdered freshness.  After around 30 minutes, the perfume is met with a very light leather which tames the green of the perfume and which makes the final stage smooth as silk.  Whip is uncomplicated, fresh and easy to wear and is perfect for when you are dressing up, or dressing down.

From the Le Galion website:

1953: Queen Elizabeth II was crowned Queen at the age of 27 while New York celebrated the opening of the Guggenheim Museum and Audrey Hepburn starred in “Roman Holiday”. Le Galion launched Whip, a fresh and young fragrance, especially refreshing in the summer. Originally created for men, women also grabbed hold of it quickly.

A return to its origins; to freshness, tone and distinction for this timeless Cologne fragrance; a fragrance that suits both men and women. Although in classic fresh and citrus fragrance territory,Whip exudes a certain modernity, It opens on a very citrusy note, created by the marriage of lemons from Verdelli and Calabrian bergamot. Tarragon, lavender and cardamom provide the aromatic notes. The heart of the fragrance is worked around floral notes such as jasmine, violet and a hint of iris, all accentuated by the powerful woody notes of galbanum. The background is softened and warmed with heady notes of oak moss, patchouli and vetiver grass oil. Leather notes give this fragrance its huge personality.

Head notes | Verdelli Citrus, Calabrian Bergamot, Tarragon, Lavander, Cardamom
Heart notes | Jasmine, Violet, Iris, Galbanum
Base notes | Oak Moss, Vetiver, Patchouli, Leather Notes

The Croquet Game, Edouard Manet - 1873

The Croquet Game, Edouard Manet – 1873

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  A beautiful bucolic day, perfect for a game of croquet.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE WHIP:  clean, neat, classic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT WHIP:  Le Mouchoir Perfume, Colognoisseur

  • Bone Rating:  3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Chypre
  • Nose: David Maruitte
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: 140 Euros for 100 ml Eau de Parfum from the Le Galion website

Special for Gentelmen2WHAT I SMELL:  Special for Gentlemen opens with a beautiful warmed luxurious lavender, tinged with citrus and bergamot.  There’s a lovely powdered amber which is highlighted by a pulsating cinnamon, but it’s so incredibly subtle as it mixes with the amber and labdanum.  After around 15 minutes, a slightly soured edge appears along with a powdered vanilla and oak moss.  The perfume is reverant, solid and masculine but not in a beefy or heavy-handed way.  In the end, you are left with a warmed, slightly soured vanillaed perfume that is proper; but very sensual at its core.  Very sexy.

From the Le Galion website:

1947: The Marshall Plan was launched. The French people dreamt of luxury and escape. Roger Vivier invented the stiletto heel, Christian Dior launched the New Look and Miss Dior, and Le Galion created Special for Gentlemen, a masculine fragrance, distinguished and refined; a fragrance to wear at all times. Discreet, refreshing, yet lingering, it is like no other. It is a luxury fragrance for men.

A tribute to the legacy of expertise, excellence and “savoir-vivre”. True to the spirit of Paul Vacher in the re-issue of this classic and elegant fragrance. A masculine fragrance, reviving the ancient traditions of the art of perfumery, using noble materials.

A beautiful Oriental Amber fragrance that opens on fresh and aromatic notes. Subtle notes of lavender and lemon are accompanied by a touch of woody galbanum. A balsamic note of cinnamon brings softness to the blend. This lasting woody amber fragrance is achieved by generously combining amber, cistus labdanum and patchouli. Finally, soft balsamic notes and a slightly animalised note lend this sensual fragrance lots of sensuality – a marriage of vanilla, opoponax and castoreum.

Head notes | Bergamot, Citrus, Lavender, Galbanum
Heart notes | Cinammon, Amber, Cistus Labdanum, Patchouli
Base notes | Oak Moss, Vanilla, Castoreum, Opoponax

Henry Cavill Man from UNCLEWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Henry Cavill in the upcoming release “The Man from U.N.C.L.E.”; sexy, daring and dashing

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SPECIAL FOR GENTLEMEN:  handsome, confident, controlled

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SPECIAL FOR GENTLEMEN: Chemist in the BottleLa gardenia nell’occhiello

  • Bone Rating:  3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent:  Aromatic Fougere
  • Nose: David Maruitte
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: 140 Euros for 100 ml Eau de Parfum from the Le Galion website

BOTTOM LINE:  I love seeing the resurrection of these classic perfume houses.  There’s a very straightforward elegance about each of the reissued perfumes which feel classic, but not historic, so you don’t feel as if you’re wearing a worn out version of your mother or father’s old wardrobe.  As much as I like both of these perfumes, I have to admit that Le Galion’s Iris is probably my favorite from the reissued perfumes.   Clean, light and pretty, it’s an iris that doesn’t drag you down in the dirt, but instead makes you feel like you’re floating on an iris cloud.  Welcome back Le Galion!