The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Tom of Finland by Etat Libre d’Orange

Yesterday was my partner’s birthday and I gave him a present of Tom of Finland Eau de Parfum.  This was a fun gift.  For those in the know, Touko Laaksonen, better known as Tom of Finland, created erotic illustrations primarily revolving around gay leather and hyper-masculine men.  I think that it’s ironic that this caricature of masculinity has been turned into an Eau de Parfum, but that’s part of the fun with Etat Libre d’Orange.  So one would expect a rough and tumble scent based on the inspiration.   What you get instead is a lovely, sweet and soothing suede composition.

The first thing you notice is that in the bottle, Tom of Finland is a very bright and artificial orange color.  I wonder if this is a new formulation since all ads show a clear composition.  Upon application, you immediately smell burnt rubber, pine and lemon.  The pine and lemon quickly dissipate and you are left with the rubber and an introduction of leather.  At this point, it’s a bit harsh and you wonder where besides a smoky dive bar you would wear this.  However, as the dry down occurs, the leather turns to suede, with vanilla and a touch of powder.  It turns out to be rather sweet and intoxicating and surprisingly luxurious.  Now, I’m not a fan of leather scents, but this is a fragrance that I would wear.

From the Etat Libre d’Orange website:

This is a fresh, pure water that can wash away the sins of the night. Clothing becomes merely ornamental, an insignificant wrapping paper that only serves to cloak the true erotic power of the flesh. This is a man who wants to play, to love, to ravish, and to be free of all inhibitions. Tom is sex.

Tom of Finland Notes:

Aldehydes, lemon, birch leaves, pine, safraleine, pepper, cypress, galbanum, geranium, vanilla, tonka bean, orris, vetiver, pyrogened styrax, suede, musk, ambergray…

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Classification: Masculine
  • Expense: $80 for 50ml EDP


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Indochine by Parfumerie Generale

Intrigued by the name and intrigued by the description of this scent, I knew I had to give this fragrance a try.  Indochine is as exotic as its name.  Sweet in the bottle and initially sweet on the skin, the far east is emboldened in what I would imagine a Vietnamese Buddhist temple would smell like.  Honey, vanilla and incense are the primary notes combined with a smoky haze.  I’m a fan or oriental scents, but the incense, as mild as it is, is not a favorite of mine.  Bold, without being overpowering, I would recommend this to anyone who likes deep and rich almost gourmand incense fragrances.

From the Parfumerie Generale website:

At once sweet, vanilla-scented, resinous, powdery, milky and spicy, Benzoin Siam is a resin of great olfactory richness that is rarely used as a central theme in Perfumery. Drawing on rare notes such as Kampot Pepper, Burmese Tanakha, or Laos honey, Pierre Guillaume orchestrates a luminous, smooth and airy perfume, delicately reproducing each and every facet of the unprocessed balsam.  This sepia-tinged balm infuses Indochine with the radiance of platinum…

Indochine Notes:

Wood, Fresh Spice, Sweet Amber, Powder, Benzoin Siam Resin, Kampot Pepper, Ceylon Cardamom, Burmese Tanakha, Laos Honey.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $95 for 50ml EDT


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Aziyade by Parfum d’Empire

Yesterday I  received my full collection of samples from Parfum d’ Empire. This was a wonderful buy in order to check out the entire collection.  Very nice packaging and even a hand written note thanking me for my purchase.  Good customer service as far as I’m concerned.  So to start my venture in sampling, I reached into the bag and chose to wear the first offering I grabbed.  So here it goes.  Coca-Cola, body odor and prunes were the first things that came to mind when I sprayed Aziyade on for the first time.  You wouldn’t think that by my description this would be a scent that I would favor, but in fact is wasn’t so bad.  I think the thought of body odor (or maybe a better description would be a musky smell) was the coming from the cardamon and cumin.  The cumin especially steps out after a bit and I rather liked it.  I would describe this as spicy with a hint of sweetness as it’s not a strong overpowering spice.  It is definitely a one of a kind scent.  My one disappointment is that it quickly vanished and I had to reapply just a few hours later.  Not that I’m complaining, because upon reapplication I quickly traveled through all the layers once again!  I think this could really grow on me and become a full bottle purchase.  We’ll see.

Aziyade Notes:  pomegranate, crystallized date, almond, orange and prune, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, Egyptian cumin, carob, frankincense, vanilla, Madagascar vanilla absolute, patchouli, musk, cistus

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: From $75 for 50ml, EDP