The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Les Exclusifs de Chanel: Coromandel and 1932

coromandel

COROMANDEL

WHAT I SMELL:  Coromandel opens with an initial sweet citrus which then turns slightly herbal with a strong presence of patchouli.  It’s not loud, but dreamy and almost minty in the beginning.  After a bit, its warmed by a light amber.  After about 30 minutes or so the incense and benzoin notes adds depth and dimension giving Coromandel more weight and volume.  Coromandel is elegant with a masculine edge.

From the Chanel website:

A voluptuous Oriental fragrance — an olfactory depiction of the lacquered Coromandel screens Mademoiselle cherished. Created by CHANEL Master Perfumer Jacques Polge in 2007, the elaborate scent unfolds in undulating detail, starting with an amber vibrato, followed by dry notes of Frankincense and Benzoin, then, soulful woody notes that add elegance and depth to the sensuous accord’s striking trail.

cn_image.size.ladies-who-lunchedWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  This is what an oriental fragrance should smell like.  This is how I think the bygone era of “ladies who lunch” should have smelled like.  I would tend to think that in that era they wore perfumes that were very large, but they should have been wearing this.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE COROMANDEL:  woody, dimensional, understated

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT COROMANDEL:  The Non-BlondeKafkaesque, Another Perfume Blog

BOTTOM LINE:  I am tempted to open my wallet now to purchase myself a bottle.  I’m not quite sure if I’m there yet, but you could easily twist my arm!

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental  Woody
  • Nose:  Jacques Polge
  • Classification: Marketed as a woman’s fragrance, but this could easily be worn by a man
  • Expense: $130 for 75ml EdT

1932

1932

WHAT I SMELL:  1932 has a big opening of aldehydes.   It’s “bathtastic” as it smells clean and fresh.  It’s  a bouquet of flowers, dominated by jasmine, ylang-ylang and carnation that is finished off with a slight warmth. I was a bit worried that 1932 wouldn’t mellow, but after around 45 minutes it seemed to tame a bit and become less obtrusive and more pretty.

From Fragrantica:

The composition is powdery – floral with a focus on jasmine. It opens with fresh citrusy flavors that include aldehydes, bergamot and neroli. The heart is a heady floral, composed of jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, lilac and carnation. The base is sweet, woody and resinous with notes of vetiver, orris, sandalwood, opoponax, incense, vanilla, coumarin, ambrette, musk and iralia molecule which possesses the character of iris and violet.

bubblebathWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Bathtastic in my mind is not a great thing.  It reminds me of how the bathroom smelled after my mother just got done taking a bubble bath which is a good smell, but not something that I would like to smell like throughout the day, nor would I want someone else to.  That’s what soap is for.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE 1932:  My new word…”bathtastic” (feel free to use this at will), heavyish, obvious

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT 1932:  Kafkaesque, The Alembicated Genie, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE:  I don’t believe 1932 is a bad fragrance, it just not for me.  I like feminine fragrances, but this is a bit too old-fashioned and floral for my tastes.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose:  Jacques Polge
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $130 for 75ml EdT

A special thanks to Sal from Kafkaesque for providing me with these samples!!  If you haven’t already, please check out her wonderful blog!


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Montale White Aoud

WHITE-AOUD-300x300WHAT I SMELL:  There is something very disconcerting about the opening of a Montale fragrance.  I have noted many to be start off being  plastic and artificial like they were conceived from a test tube rather than through a perfumer’s nose and hands.  White Aoud is no exception; it covers your skin like a latex glove that has a slight powder inside that allows you to slip them on easily.  The saffron is evident as it tugs with the plastic which finally after a good while starts to give way to a pretty rose.  However, I would not call this a “rose” fragrance, it’s far more complex than that as the agarwood and cardamon mix and start to spice things up a bit.  But the journey does not to end there… what starts off as a latex glove turns finally into a lovely lightly powdered vanilla and patchouli floral beauty.  It’s very comforting and very pretty, but not so much so that it doesn’t also work for a man.

White Aoud Notes:  Rose of Damascus, saffron, agarwood, cardamom, jasmine, patchouli, sandalwood from Mysore, amber, vetiver, vanilla and labdanum.

tina turnerWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Tina Turner in Mad Max Beyond the Thunderdome.  She’s a woman living in a world ruled by petroleum and White Auod feels like it’s derived from petroleum.  Even though it’s derived from petroleum, it’s the perfect solution from getting away from the grit and dirt.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE WHITE AOUD:  artificially pretty, soft, strong

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT WHITE AOUD: Perfume Smellin Things, The Scentuary, Now Smell This

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental  Floral WoodyMusk
  • Classification: Feminine – but easily worn by a man
  • Expense: $110 for 50ml EdP


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Elixir Charnel Oriental Brulant by Guerlain

orientalbrulantMaybe it’s the time of the year or maybe it’s because I have the winter blues; in any case, I seem to be reaching out for comfort scents.  Thankfully, I had a large sample of Oriental Brulant to keep me company this past week.

WHAT I SMELL:  Oriental Bulant opens with a warm and spicy balminess.  The top note are listed as tangerine, but I got that for about one second as it turned balmy. There is a hint of soapiness (which I typically abhor), but here it’s very light and reminds me what my mother’s bathroom smelled like right after she took a bath.  After a bit, the vanilla’d almond comes more to the front.  This is not an overly sweet almond, but one that is rounded and warm.  Oriental Brulant is pretty linear and sits close to the skin.  It’s about as ethereal a fragrance that is to my liking as it’s a warmish vapor that rises so slightly above your skin.

Oriental Brulant Notes:  top note is tangerine; middle note is almond; base notes are tonka bean, styrax and vanilla.

pink skyWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Maybe it’s the pink color of the juice, but I think of pretty cirrus clouds backed up to a lovely pink sky.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ORIENTAL BRULANT:  wispy, pretty, peaceful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ORIENTAL BRULANT: Perfume Shrine, Olfactoria’s Travels, AustralianPerfumeJunkies

BOTTOM LINE:  For the time being, I am in love with this fragrance, but I think come the spring I could grow tired of its lovely balminess.  This is a vanilla for non-vanilla lovers and leans feminine.  I have to admit though that this is the perfect “bed-time” scent for me as it helps to create those pretty pink clouds in my head that the sheep can jump over.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Oriental
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $260 for 75ml EdP