4 bones | The Scented Hound

April 21, 2013
by The Scented Hound 19 Comments

Voleur de Roses by L’Artisan Perfumeur

In one of my recent posts, I discuss Olfactif and the sample offerings that they provided for their inaugural launch. The one fragrance out of the three that I seem to be drawn to and keep testing is Velour de Roses by L’Artisan Perfumeur.

WHAT I SMELL: Voleur de Roses goes on bright. There’s a sweet, plum and slightly citrus bergamot opening with a minty herbal, almost hay like cedar background. After a short while Voleur de Roses starts to then move into a warm patchouli rose. However, this rose isn’t sweet or loud, instead its earthy and feels like a rose-bush that’s anchored in mulch. And in fact, I almost consider this to be more patchouli than rose as the warm patchouli note dominates the drydown. The fragrance really doesn’t morph much and it sits close to the skin without much projection. For being so “cedarish” it is very much a skin scent.

Voleur de Roses Notes: patchouli, rose, plum

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A cedar lined chest with old and waning rose sachets stored inside.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE VOLEUR DE ROSES: earthy, humble, simple

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VOLEUR DE ROSES: smellythoughts, Perfume Shrine, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE: I really like this fragrance. It’s distinctive and comforting. But I just don’t know if I could pull the plug on a purchase. I somehow have the feeling that the bottle would be neglected after time.

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Woody
Nose: Michel Almairac
Classification: Unisex
Expense: Approximately $140 for 100ml EdT

April 14, 2013
by The Scented Hound 25 Comments

Hedonist by Parfums Viktoria Minya

I’m a sucker for pretty packaging. If the fragrance is wonderful and housed in a special bottle, then to me it’s even better. Hedonist, the first offering from Parfums Viktoria Minya, is housed in a beautiful bottle filled with hundreds of bohemian crystals and comes in a luxurious handmade wooden black box. OK, the visuals alone have my interest piqued. Let’s look at the fragrance itself…

WHAT I SMELL: Hedonist is a perfume that goes on cool to the touch and opens with a honeyed peach accord. Peach can sometimes overwhelm me, but when it’s not too sweet as it is in this case, it really can be lovely. As cool as it goes on, it quickly warms to a mysterious combination orange blossom and jasmine. The light tobacco and vetiver help to hold back the overly sweet side of the floral notes which eventually do come out, but when they do, they do so in a whisper and not with a shout. What you are left with is a sweet and brightly warmed apricot vanilla fragrance that is pretty without being over the top.

Hedonist notes:

Top notes: rum CO2, bergamot, peach

Heart notes: jasmine absolute, orange blossom absolute, osmanthus absolute, tobacco

Base notes: vetyver, cedarwood, vanilla

From the Parfums Viktoria Minya website:

A powerful and provocative perfume for a woman who dares to be true to her desires. Lush notes of jasmine and orange blossom absolute flirt with the dark intensity of rum and the world’s finest woods for a scent that is as captivating as it is unforgettable.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A summer breeze which catches the light smell of burgeoning flowers.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE HEDONIST: sunny, warm, peaceful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT HEDONIST: Kafkaesque, smellythoughts, Eiderdown Press

BOTTOM LINE: I was expecting with a name like Hedonist that this fragrance would be over the top opulence. Instead, I found it to be well crafted, pretty and delightful. I believe that Viktoria Minya has made a wonderfully fresh and beautifully created first offering and I look forward to her next creation.

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Woody Chypre
Nose: Viktoria Minya
Classification: Feminine
Expense: $130 Euros, 45ml EdP

Disclosure: Sample provided by Parfums Viktoria Minya.

February 16, 2013
by The Scented Hound 23 Comments

Rose Nacree du Desert by Guerlain

I had forgotten all about this sample that I picked up in NY last fall until I was digging through my untested samples today. I thought this would be the perfect test for the depressing gray and blah Saturday weather.

WHAT I SMELL: Rose Nacree du Desert opens with an almost berried sweetened herbacious rose. It’s juicy and yummy and although somewhat candied in it sweetness it’s not what I would consider too sweet because it doesn’t scream. Soon enough, a smooth creaminess blends with patchouli and oud and the sweetened opening burns off. At this point, the fragrance becomes more linear, but with one little last twist of the introduction of a saffroned spice. If I can compare this to anything, I find that there is a similarity to Rose Oud by Kilian, but Rose Nacree is much more subtle and subdued. I love Rose Oud, but to me this is more elegant and translucent and a bit more to my liking.

From Fragrantica: A fragrance built on lush Persian rose, the legendary blossom of the east. Creamy yet dark, rose is given a mysterious air via saffron, patchouli and a hint of agarwood (oud), fanned on rich benzoin resin.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: This is a midnight rose blossoming under the full moon with its lilting fragrant blossom enticing young couples into love and romance.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ROSE NACREE DU DESERT: dreamy, comforting, subtle

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ROSE NACREE DU DESERT: What Men Should Smell Like, Katie Chutzpah, The Scented Salamander

BOTTOM LINE: This is another exceptional perfume from Guerlain. I am tempted now to run to Saks Fifth Avenue to test out the other to fragrances in the Les Deserts d’Orient collection; Encens Mythique d’Orient and Songe d’Un Bois d’Eté. This is really lovely. In fact, I believe I need to put some more on now!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Oriental Floral
Nose: Theirry Wasser
Classification: Unisex
Expense: I can’t find this online, but I believe it’s between $250 – $300 for 75ml EdP