The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


22 Comments

New Release: Sotto la Luna GARDENIA by Tauer Perfumes

WHAT I SMELL:  Sotto la Luna GARDENIA’s opening is green and slightly sharp along with being big and bold with a semi-vintage vibe.  The initial opening is met quickly with a gourmand sweetness like almond extrait that’s layered under a spiced rose.  And soon enough a creaminess develops that helps to radiate this incredible floral warmth as the notes begin to bounce around like a symphony of full-bodied petals.  How can you not love a big, bold floral like this?  Sotto la Luna GARDENIA is sweet with its gourmand almond and vanilla, but there’s a depth that keeps it from becoming saccharine as the sandalwood and tonka keep it leveled.  As Sotto la Luna GARDENIA continues to develop, it deepens and the florals project off the skin like they’re about to burst.  The sweetness then begins to dissipate to be taken over by a more earthy component, like the heavy flowers are being plucked from the ground.  At this point, the fragrance is heady, intoxicating and dreamy.  After some more time, the florals retreat and the vanilla comes to the forefront and it’s creamy, lush and it swirls off the skin.  After about an hour, Sotto la Luna GARDENIA begins to settle and calm.  At this point the drydown is DIVINE, as it’s smooth, warm, lightly almond sugared and lightly powdered.  In the end Sotto la Luna GARDENIA is incredibly comforting; so much so that it makes me want to purr like a kitten!

From the Tauer Perfumes website:

Sotto la Luna®, inspired by white flowers blooming under the moon.

Head Notes:  The spicy freshness of gardenia budding under a bright moon.

Heart Notes: The green floral delicacy of gardenia in full bloom with a gentle rose.

Body Notes:  The powdery mossiness of ripe gardenia with a hint of jasmine, in a bed of sandalwood, tonka and vanilla.

Riding a Crescent MoonWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Riding a Crescent Moon 

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SOTTO LA LUNA GARDENIA: creamy, luscious, narcotic

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SOTTO LA LUNA GARDENIA:  Is it possible that there aren’t any reviews of this yet?

BOTTOM LINE:  If you are looking for a straight up Gardenia fragrance, Sotto la Luna GARDENIA is not for you.  However, if you are looking for a deeply delicious rounded floral that makes your head dizzy with intoxication, this IS for you (and of course, for me!)

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Nose:  Andy Tauer
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $145 for 50ml (Available via pre-order through Twisted Lily and Indigo Perfumery with shipping in early September)


9 Comments

D.S. & Durga Siberian Snow

SiberianSnowWHAT I SMELL:  Siberian Snow opens with a deep and rooty mint that’s earthy, rich and organic.  Overall the opening is full bodied, with a tinge of what can be described as body odor with a bit of mustiness.  But I love that bit of funk because it makes Siberian Snow real and rather primal and sexy.  There’s also a very sheer incense that layers the bottom of the fragrance.  It’s quite light, but it makes the composition seem much more mysterious.  After around the 10 minute mark, Siberian Snow lightens and in weaves an ever so slight soapiness along with a sweetened patchouli.  The whole composition seems wrapped in moisture, the kind that leaves a light wetness on the ground when there’s a fog overhead.  After some more time, the patchouli takes center stage, but it’s earthy and sharp and seems to be entwined with the forest floor.  Soon enough the opoponax comes to life with an almost sugared coating that’s more sticky than sweet.  As the fragrance further develops, it becomes greener, sharper and the projection grows.  But as the projection grows, the fragrance completely dries out making this in the end, a warm, woody, dry and powdery big patchouli earthy fragrance.

Notes from the D.S. & Durga website:

Top notes:  wintergreen mint, cistus labdanum, incense

Heart notes:  styrax, jasmine sambac, patchouli

Base notes:  amber, civet, opoponax

red-riding-hoodWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Red Riding Hood going to visit grandma’s house, through the foggy and wet forest only to find grandma’s house nice and dry.  Grandma looks so snuggly in her bed…

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SIBERIAN SNOW:  earthy, bold, dark

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SIBERIAN SNOW: Scent Hive, Sabbath of Senses

BOTTOM LINE:  Siberian Snow was one of the 5 finalists for the 2012 FIFI Indie Award.  It ultimately did not gain the top spot, but that tells you how good it is.  This is marketed as a woman’s fragrance, but I have to say that this is incredibly masculine and could easily be worn by men.  I also think that it’s suited better for the fall and winter.  Although I didn’t get snow from this… I have to admit that I enjoyed taking the walk through the forest, Grandma’s big teeth and all.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Green
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $98 for 30ml EdP

Sample courtesy of Indigo Perfumery.


24 Comments

Peche Cardinal by Parfums MDCI

peche cardinalWHAT I SMELL:  Peche Cardinal opens with a muted berry that’s sweet and fruity and lightly tropical.  It’s really pretty and soft and could easily have gone big and garish, but instead it is pure innocence.   There’s a light creaminess that lends itself to a light peach freshness.  It’s as if there are peaches and plums in a beautiful bowl, tinged with sun that’s met with a gentle breeze coming through an open window.  Plus it’s cottony soft, like a baby’s blanket; all comforting and secure.  After around 20 minutes, the warmth of the sandalwood comes in along with this restrained tuberose, making this even more comforting if that’s possible.  After the 30 minute mark the fragrance begins to grow and increase its projection.  But once again, it does so without making it loud.  The final drydown is a just a little spicy, but a lot of peach and muted tuberose.  Peche Cardinal is one majestic beauty.

From the Parfums MDCI website:

A fruity floral From a palette of raw materials by the famous Fragrance House Robertet, Amandine Marie imagined for MDCI a very bold, young and vivacious composition: daring at first, but with soft and silky tones in its development. A dazzling start: peach, blackberry, blackcurrant, Davana and coconut make it a true fruity fragrance, full of exuberance. After this grand opening  that feels like the triumphant arrival of spring and awakens the  senses, lily and tuberose and a touch of plum enter the  composition, softening it into a smooth fruity floral. These floral  notes are a prelude to the round and velvety final accords of the  base: sandalwood, cedar and musk bring soothing calm, body and lasting power.

Girl with a Kitten, Jean-Baptiste Perronneau

Girl with a Kitten, Jean-Baptiste Perronneau

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The story of a girl’s transformation from beautiful innocence to a sophisticated and charming woman.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PECHE CARDINAL:  glorious, comforting, cultured

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PECHE CARDINAL:  Olfactoria’s Travels, Another Perfume Blog, Perfume Posse

BOTTOM LINE:  Peche Cardinal translates into Cardinal Sin.  There is NO sin involved with this fragrance.  Instead, it would be a sin not to enjoy it.  I’m not a fan of peach fragrances…but I am a big fan of this.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Fruity Floral
  • Nose:  Amandine Marie
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $250 for 75ml EdP without the beautiful bust.  $375 for 60ml EdP with the iconic bust.