The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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New Release: Puredistance Papilio

WHAT I SMELL:  Papilio opens with a soft and serene warmed magnolia that immediately hugs the skin.  It’s enchanting, rather demure and very inviting.  The soft florals blend with just a hint of the vegetal which brings the earth towards the ethereal bouquet.  Blended so incredibly, the perfume at this point is less the sum of notes and is more of an expression of peacefulness with an added layer of fresh dewiness.  Papilio slowly builds in a radiant warmth that seems to born in a soft breeze emanating from the skin as it moves and lifts to the nose.  The perfume then begins to settle in to a light leathered wood that is covered with a hazy powder that sits above the warmed base.  Overall it’s pretty, delicate and light as a feather.  Papilio goes straight to the heart with its endearing beauty.

From the Puredistance website:

PAPILIO is multifaceted, lively and vibrant. Created by Nathalie Feisthauer in Paris. ‘Embrace your true nature’ is the concept of PAPILIO (Latin for ‘Butterfly’). Butterflies come in all shapes and colours and accept themselves as they are – in each phase of their life..

Top notes: Bergamot Oil.

Middle notes: Magnolia Oil, Neroli oil, Carrot oil, Orris, Lily of the valley, Hedione HC, Heliotrope.

Base notes: Cedarwood, Vetyver oil, Amyris oil, Intense woods Ambroxan, Opoponax resinoid, Benzoin resinoid, Vanilla, Touch of Peach, Leather Ambrette, Cashmere, Muscenone.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Butterflies in flight.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE PAPILIO:  soft, uplifting, comforting

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PAPILIOCaFleureBon 

BOTTOM LINE:  I think I should be tired of saying that Puredistance has once again graced the perfume world with another magnificent creation.  But here we are again and it’s a wonderful addition to the Puredistance collection.  Sometimes a beautiful perfume is hard to put into words, but instead describing its persona is the best way to give it life in words.  Papilio is incredibly soft and somewhat demure and unassuming, but at the same time it embodies strength and beauty.  And most of all, it’s absolutely gorgeous!

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Floral Woody Musk
  • Nose:  Nathalie Feisthauer
  • Classification: Unisex, but leans feminine
  • Expense: Starting at 175 Euros for 17ml parfum extrait (25% perfume oil).


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Altaia Atacama

WHAT I SMELL:  Atacama opens with warmed saline infused earth that feels unmeasured in its vastness.  It’s serene right from the beginning with just the perfect mix of dew and salt.  Slowly, a mix of florals enters to add an additional measure of softness along with just a hint of caramel buttered creaminess.  The perfume retains its salt of the earth feel as it begins to grow with an woodiness that can only be described as remnants left by a hard rain on the ocean mixed with the driftwood that has been swept up on the shore surrounded by flowers glistening in the sun.  In the end, Atacama is soft and beautiful lightly salty and sweetened uniquely personal perfume.

From the Atlaia website:

True love waits: in South America lies Atacama, the highest desert on earth, a majestic extension of salt and sands which changes colour according to the seasons. Rain is scarce but it just takes a few drops to awaken the seeds which abide underground and turn it pink with flowers. A beautiful metaphor for Love patiently awaiting the kiss that kindles it.

Notes:  Salt Grains, Freesia, Jasmine, Clary Sage, Tonka Bean, Cashmere Wood

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Sun kissed pink salty sand that’s been touched by the rain.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE ATACAMA:  fresh, personal, infinite

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ATACAMA:  Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  Atacama is a hard perfume for me to put into words.  It changes and morphs depending on the heat and humidity of the day.  At times it gravitates towards the sea and the salt and at other times is moves towards the light florals.  But in any shape or form, Atacama is a beautifully executed perfume that is easy to wear.  And as an added bonus, the bottle and packaging are gorgeous.

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of possible 5 bones
  • Nose: Fabrice Pellegrin
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $230 for 100 ml eau de parfum at Beautyhabit.

Sample provided by Beautyhabit.


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Thameen Royal Fanfare

WHAT I SMELL:  Fanfare opens with an inviting bergamot and a very Lemon Pledge-like lemon that shines bright then retreats quickly to make way for some soft and demure florals.  Fanfare is welcoming right from first spritz and I like the fact that it’s so approachable.   After short time, hints of herbs seem to come up from below the citrus and florals.  But in short order again, the herbal makes way for a buttery and creamy swath of  juniper which is quite unexpected as juniper is typically in the sharper and dryer vein.  But the cream ends quite quickly and a dry and smoky vetiver joins the juniper and becomes front and center which turns the perfume to the more masculine.  Here the perfume melds juniper, vetiver and a vanilla’d musk to create a very handsome and sexy perfume that is very easy to like.

From the Thameen London website:

A Cologne Elixir inspired by the Flower Market at Covent Garden which has been immortalised by George Bernard Shaw’s Pygmalion.

Created by perfumer Bruno Jovanovic, Fanfare is a melodic fantasy with a touch of impertinence exuding the spirit of contemporary British aesthetic.

It opens with a beguiling watery floral and citrus accord, which slowly becomes darker as the structure evolves and becomes more daring with the vermouth accord. Finally, the noble woods bring this dark depth to the structure of the fragrance.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Neroli, Flower Market Accord
Heart Notes: Rosemary, Vermouth, Juniper Berry
Base Notes: Musk, Patchouli, Vetiver

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The quintessential English pub…from day to night.

THREE WORDS THAT DESCRIBE FANFARE:  welcoming, interesting, handsome

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT FANFARE:  CaFleureBon, Perfume Posse, I Fragrance

BOTTOM LINE:  Fanfare is labeled as a Cologne Elixir.  I have to say that it feels heftier than your typical cologne and that’s a good thing.  There’s a lot to love with Fanfare and I for one will create some fanfare myself for this fantastic perfume.     

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Citrus Aromatic
  • Nose:  Bruno Jovanovic
  • Classification: Unisex, but leans masculine
  • Expense: $295 for 100 ml Cologne Elixir

* Sample provided by Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary.