The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.

Tag Archives: 3 bones


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New Release: Chypre 21 by Heeley Parfums

chypre-21WHAT I SMELL: Chypre 21 opens with a lovely rosemary tinged bergamot that feels clean and zesty.  The rosemary note adds a wonderfully different herbal twist to the opening of the perfume and is a lovely surprise.  Quickly, a saffron note joins in along with a bitter sour neroli.  The perfume is dry and rather woody, but quickly the perfume then moves to a light rose and patchouli.  As it develops the perfume is still dry, but has moved to a more pretty demeanor which is tinged with florals.  As the perfume continues to develop, the projection deepens and becomes more rounded but powdery.  After around the 30 minute mark, the perfume arrives at it prettiest point; it’s soft, powdery and dry, floral and completely comforting.

From the Heeley Parfums website:

An ode to Parisian chic

As from the early 20th century onwards, the chypre accord has undoubtedly been regarded as the quintessential French perfume. Chypre 21 however, is a creation for the 21st century whereby the main ingredients of a classic chypre: Bergamot, rose, patchouli, sandalwood and oak moss have been reworked to create a contemporary, unisex fragrance. The scent leaves behind a wonderful, slightly nostalgic trail with a certain air of Parisian chic that would have been familiar to the likes of Jackie Onassis, Grace Kelly and of course the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.

Italian Bergamot . Rosemary . Petit Grain
Neroli . Bulgarian Rose . Saffron
Musk . Oak Moss . Patchouli . Sandalwood

Cozy KittyWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: A cozy kitten.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE CHYPRE 21: agreeable, comfortable, easy-going

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT CHYPRE 21: Colognoisseur

BOTTOM LINE:  If you are looking for a big dose of oak moss, you probably will be disappointed.  Instead, Chypre 21 is a comforting perfume that starts off dry and powdery, but in the end turns into a nice and agreeable patchouli and musk.  Chypre 21 is an easy wear.


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Polianthes by Bottega Profumiera

PolianthesWHAT I SMELL:  Polianthes’ opening is soft and creamy and highlighted by a lightly spicy mentholated tuberose.  There’s an underlying candied aspect from the tiare flower that adds a light spun sugar or cotton candy dimension to the perfume.  After a few minutes, a woody note comes forward which decreases the light sweetness.  Though full of projection, the perfume itself is not heavy nor dense.  Instead, the perfume seems to hover above the skin.  But as soon as I write that, I find a rather creamy buttery note comes forward that brings the perfume back to earth and what was light and ethereal now becomes a sheen of buttery vanilla tuberose with a curiously dry undertone.  Here the perfume gracefully resides in its dry down.  A rather lady-like, but secure, existence at that.

From the Bottega Profumeira website:

Polianthes Tuberose or in common name from Latin “Tuberosa” is the note that gives name to this perfume.  “Sexy”, “heady”, “sultry”, “carnal” are the sorts of descriptions that are typically applied to tuberose perfumes, but in this case I add also “soft”, “reflective”, “independent”, “strong” like a complete woman is. All these peculiarities are in every woman and I tried to put all these facets in a single perfume. There is no sensuality without intelligence, there is no passion without strength, there is no love without independence… So the opulent white flowers of tuberose, thiaré, gardenia, jasmin match together with the solid notes of vetiver, sandalwood, teakwood…

Notes:  thiaré, tuberose, gardenia, ylang-ylang, jasmin, benzoin, frankincense, amber, vanilla, teakwood, vetiver, sandalwood

Taming the TigerWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  The taming of the tuberose tiger.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE POLIANTHES:  secure, buttery, harnessed

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT POLIANTHES: Chemist in the Bottle, BL’eauOG

BOTTOM LINE:  Polianthes is the tuberose perfume for those who don’t want their tuberose to completely overwhelm or dominate.  Instead it politely takes its place where it’s lovely presence is noticeable, without being overbearing.

  • Bone Rating: 3 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose:  Maurizio Lembo
  • Classification: Unisex, but leans feminine
  • Expense: $150 for 100ml Eau de Parfum (plus 30ml travel refill)

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary


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Rose of No Man’s Land by Byredo

Rose of No Man's LandWHAT I SMELL:  Rose of a No Man’s Land opens with a sweet and citrus candied rose that sparkles with a refreshing and dewy and slightly “bathtastic” glow.  The perfume goes on clean, fresh and pretty without being too girly as there is a heftiness to the rose that is topped by a lightly jammy raspberry.  After a few minutes, the sparkling fruitened rose is met with a warm and radiant amber with just a hint of light spice.  The perfume remains clean and fresh, but much more tame as it feels as if it begs to exist quietly rather than be pushed to the forefront in a noticeable way.  After another 10 minutes, a layer of suede pulls itself over the composition.  I really like the perfume at this point as the combination of rose and leather pulls the fragrance in and out of the masculine and feminine.  After a few more minutes, the suede begins to fade and the rose begins to grow and project.  Rose of a No Man’s Land is a comfort scent that wraps itself around the wearer with a clean, warm easy to wear rose.

From the Byredo website:

Rose of No Man’s Land is a tribute to the nurses (often referred to by soldiers as “Rose of No-Man’s Land”) who saved thousands of lives on the front lines of WWI, their story is one of selflessness and compassion.

Top notes are pink pepper and turkey red rose; middle notes are turkey red rose and raspberry bloom; base notes are papyrus and white amber.

Angora SweaterWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  An Angora sweater…not heavy, rather fluffy, and all comfort.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE ROSE OF A NO MAN’S LAND:  easy, comfortable, clean

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT ROSE OF A NO MAN’S LAND: EauMG, Now Smell This

BOTTOM LINE:  The opening of the perfume is divine…very fresh and full of life and the perfume matures beautifully and is lovely.  Actually, what I like about it best is that it doesn’t scream to be noticed but instead quietly does its job in a very unassuming way.

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Spicy
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $145 for 50ml Eau de Parfum