The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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New Release: Yin & Ylang by Sonoma Scent Studio

incensebox

A little over a month ago I was reading on one of my favorite sites, CaFleureBon, that CaFleureBon editor Michelyn Camen and perfumer Laurie Erickson had teamed up to create a new perfume based on a concept developed by Michelyn.  I knew that whatever these two created was going to be incredible and was even more excited to learn that the featured note was going to be my beloved ylang-ylang.  You can read more about Michelyn’s and Laurie’s inspiration and their creative development process at CaFleureBon.  As there was a draw as part of the announcement, I was lucky enough to get a sneak peek sniff…but even better, it’s now available for sale!

WHAT I SMELL:  Yin & Ylang opens with a snappy bergamot and semi sweet blood orange, but quickly moves into with this very lovely and deepened fruitiness which then becomes moves even deeper revealing this ultra creamy and über sexy ylang ylang.  For an opening, this is surprising as it’s weighted with a layered sheen of wax which seems to pour up from the depths below.  Jasmine and tuberose take a back seat to the ylang ylang, but sit on the side revealing themselves after around ten minutes as the fragrance begins to lighten after its initial seduction. As the fragrance lightens, a hint of soured light sharpness (sandalwood?) begins to make an appearance.  However, given another twenty minutes and the fragrance looses any hint of sharpness and the creamy florals really begin to project off my skin.  The fragrance then blends so fluently with the base notes creating this dreamy and slightly honeyed backdrop for the exquisite florals.  I’m not sure what this says about me, but I find Yin & Ylang to be sensual, yet very comforting at the same time.

Fragrance Notes from the Sonoma Scent Studio website:

Bergamot, blood orange, soft aldehydes,beeswax absolute, ylang complete oil, jasmine sambac absolute, tuberose absolute, rose damascones, ginger CO2,Mysore sandalwood oil, oakmoss absolute, amber, patchouli,vanilla, musk.

seduction2WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  seduction

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE YIN & YLANG:  glorious, enraptured, lush

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT YIN & YLANG: Now Smell This, CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE:  I had the pleasure of meeting Michelyn last fall at Sniffapalooza and she is lovely and charming in every way and she knows the perfume industry like few do. Knowing Michelyn, I knew upon hearing about this new creation that it would be a hit; and I was right.  Sometimes great ideas and collaborations don’t always make for a good fit.  In this case, Michelyn and Laurie have created a timeless beauty that starts off with a strong seduction and leaves you with a lasting love.

  • Bone Rating: 4.5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Floral
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense: $55 for 17ml or $100 for 34ml  from the Sonoma Scent Studio website


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MEMORIES OF EASTER PAST

EasterLilyMaybe it’s because it’s finally Spring after a long and cold winter or maybe it’s because I’m just getting old and sentimental.  In any case, the other day I was reflecting on my memories of Easter as a child and a flood of warm feelings came rushing back in…

Central Lutheran Church, Minneapolis, MN

Central Lutheran Church, Minneapolis, MN

I grew up in the suburbs of Minneapolis, MN back in the 60s and 70s.  My world was very Ozzie and Harriet and if I look back at it, I was pretty idyllic.  Growing up in Minnesota, the first hints of Spring are greatly anticipated after so long of a harsh winter.  Easter never had the hype of Christmas or Thanksgiving and somehow was a little more low-key except for the Easter Bunny and the candy and the promise of a new Sunday Easter outfit.  Even though we lived in the suburbs, we still travelled into the city to attend church.  We were members of a grand church built in the 1920s, the kind of which aren’t constructed anymore.  Even though it was in the heart of downtown, it always had a very low-key family atmosphere about it.  My family was pretty active in the church, my sisters and I were involved with choir and bible study and I was confirmed in the church in 8th grade.  Even going to confirmation class wasn’t all that bad because two blocks away from the church was a Wonder Bread factory that had a little store with slightly damaged goods in it.  As a kid, you could pick up a Hostess Apple Pie, Cupcake and SnowBall for 25 cents…and they were still warm from just coming off of the factory line!

Easter actually kicked off with Good Friday.  Our church had a three-hour service that involved multiple sermons based on the last words spoken by Christ.  As a child, my parents never took us for the full three hours, but instead we typically would end up hearing the last two sermons.  At the end of the last sermon, a soloist would sing a capella, “Where You There When They Crucified My Lord”.  And as this was being sung, the two-story tall brass cross behind the altar at the front of the church was slowly covered in a black veil.  The church was always so quiet and it was incredibly somber.  I’ll never forget year after year, the older widowed women sitting together would start quietly sobbing.  After the soloist finished, the cross was fully covered and only a black drape covered the front of the church. The choir would then start their march out of the church.  No music, no noise, only the in step sound of their shoes on the stone floor.  It’s surprising how dramatic that service was and I still get chills thinking about how simple yet powerful that service was designed.

Picture the sanctuary filled with hundreds of lillies!

Picture the sanctuary filled with hundreds of lilies!

As I mentioned earlier, all three of us kids were in choir. I being the youngest, was in the Cherub choir, my older sisters were in the High School choir, but in all, there were 3 choirs that were to sing on Easter morning for the Sunrise Service.  This meant that we had to get up by 4:30am to make sure that we were at the church and ready to go for the 6am service.  Of course, I would want to find my Easter basket, but there never was time for that on those mornings.  The Sunrise Service would begin at 6am sharp.  It was still dark outside and all of the choir members would line up to march into the church in just the same manner as they walked out on Good Friday.  The only difference this time is that you could smell the lilies.  Hundreds of lilies were placed throughout the sanctuary and the smell was incredible.  So off we march to our respective places and soon as everyone is set, the grand organ plays what sounds like horns and the lights go up and the black veil at the front of the church quickly drops to the ground and the choirs and congregation sing out with “Jesus Christ is Risen Today.”  What was dark and somber became instantaneously glorious with smiling people along with the sanctuary awash with the white lilies.  Again, for a child it seemed magical and I can only hope that it is one tradition that the church still practices because I’m sure it’s just as dramatic to experience as an adult.

Yes, it looks tacky now, but as a kid this place was special!

Yes, it looks tacky now, but as a kid this place was special!

After the sunrise service, the choirs were expected to sing at the 9am service as well.  As a special treat, this meant that we would go for breakfast with our church friends the Johnson’s between the two services and always at the Fair Oaks Motor Lodge restaurant.  As a family we rarely went out to eat, and for me this was big time fun.  After the 9am service it was time to head home to look for our baskets.  I think my sisters were old enough so theirs would be sitting on the couch whereas I had to go and hunt mine out which was always fun.  Every other year, we would host our aunts and uncles and cousins for Easter supper which meant ham, lamb, scalloped potatoes and other good midwestern fair.  Plus, company meant that the good olives and appetizers were put out which I constantly tried to sneak off the table.

From reading this you would think that I was extremely religious.  Not so. I can’t tell you the last time that I attended church.  But I have to admit that I have many fond memories of growing up with such a majestic and theatrical traditional church setting and I sometime miss the pomp and circumstance that surrounded attending such a place.  It’s nice to be able to look back and still get warm fuzzies from such happy times.

So what does this post have to do with perfume?  Nothing really, except that the smell of lilies can take me back to those Easters of long ago.


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PANDORA by DSH PERFUMES – VISIONS OF MERIDA

pandora_present11We just got back to the States after visiting Merida, Mexico this past week.  Merida is one of the spots that we are visiting in our search for the ideal place to retire in a few years.  We’re ready for an adventure and are both drawn to Mexico.  So after hearing wonderful things about the city, we decided to take a visit.  Merida didn’t disappoint.  Without getting too much into details, Merida is the capital city in the state of Yucatan.  It was founded over 472 years ago and is city full of culture, good restaurants and wonderful people.  We met with a real estate agent and looked at various options in the central city which is comprised of colonial homes which sit flush to the sidewalk, only to reveal high ceiling grandeur with gardens in the back.  They were stunning.  We also managed to get out of the city for a bit visiting a hacienda that was unrestored but in which you could see the magnificence that once existed as well as the Mayan ruins at Uxmal which after in the past visiting other ruins rated the best as the details on the building were very well-preserved.  Both of decided that we need to go back in the fall and do some more investigation into this Yucatan jewel.  It really felt like home.

So what does this have to do with DSH’s Pandora?  Well, let’s just say that it became my Merida Mexico perfume of choice.  A few days prior to leaving for Mexico I received my order from DSH with my order of Pandora.  After reading some wonderful reviews by Kafkaesque, I wondered why I hadn’t sought DSH out before so I gave their website a spin and for some reason, was drawn towards Pandora.  Have you ever been drawn into a perfume because of its name?  I don’t believe I have in the past, but this time the name was the key!  I must do this more often, because like Merida, Pandora is a jewel.

WHAT I SMELL:  Opens with this beautiful lightly sugared suede along with this rounded deep floral mix that’s deeply soothing and strangely intoxicating and exotic.  After some time, Pandora starts to reveal its oakmoss, but without drying the fragrance too much, and as such, the otherworldly quality that gives the Pandora its mystery remains intact.  The fragrance doesn’t much morph beyond this, but what it does is radiate off your skin like a living force field that mixed with your body heat, will grow and pulse to match your warmth.

Pandora’s Notes:

Top notes: Aldehyde/Aldehydic, Bergamot, Cassis Bud, Davana, Green Peppercorn, Ozone, Pink Peppercorn, Ruby Red Fruits (botanical accord), Spice Notes, Violet Leaf Absolute.

Middle notes: Cabreuva Wood, Centifolia Rose Absolute, Green Tea Absolute, Juhi Jasmine Absolute, Linden Blossom Absolute, Orris Root, Yerba Mate Absolute.

Base notes: Ambergris Tincture, Australian Sandalwood, Cyperus, Fossilized Amber, Green Oakmoss, Mousse de Saxe no.1 (botanical accord), Muhuhu, Patchouli co2, Tonka Bean Absolute, Vanilla Absolute, Vetiver co2.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Sexiness.  This was well suited for the warm Mexican nights and for dining al fresco at Merida’s lovely restaurants.  It made me feel alive, confident and surprisingly sexy.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PANDORA:  warm, deep, soulful

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PANDORA: The Perfume Critic, Scent Hive, EauMG

BOTTOM LINE:  This is so good that the 10ml bottle that I purchase has now been reduced to around 3 remaining mls.  I must have more.  Pandora has me under her spell!  Now, I must have the parfum extrait!

  • Bone Rating: 5 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent: Chypre Floral
  • Classification: Unisex
  • Expense: $63 for 10ml EdP from the DSH Perfumes website.  It should be noted that the picture above is for the 15ml parfum extrait which sells for $227 (sorry, I couldn’t find a picture of the EdP version!)