The Scented Hound

May 19, 2014
by The Scented Hound Leave a comment

Pasha de Cartier Edition Noire

WHAT I SMELL: Pasha de Cartier Edition Noire opens with citrus and mint that’s clean and cool. The fragrance then moves quickly towards a slightly honeyed woody cedar. Additionally, there seems to be an almost hidden chocolate accord buried in the mix, like a semi-sweet bakers chocolate. After around five minutes the fragrance begins to sweeten and sparkle. After another five minutes the cedar really takes over, but it’s highlighted with a layered of sprinkled brown sugar and tobacco that makes the fragrance pop. Add some patchouli in and in the end you’re left with a lightly woody patchoulied fragrance with hints of chocolate.

From the Cartier website:

Wearing Pasha de Cartier means sporting a fragrance that has a cool elegance and the power of seduction. Cartier has created a new edition of the legendary Pasha de Cartier fragrance. The subtlety of this fragrance comes from the hint of green and fresh citrus, which perfectly balances the woody amber and cedarwood notes.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Like this cedar stencil on a pantone card.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PASHA DE CARTIER EDITION NOIRE: woody, OK, semi-sweet

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PASHA DE CARTIER EDITION NOIRE: I couldn’t find any.

BOTTOM LINE: An OK Pasha de Cartier flanker, but nothing that sets the world on fire. But sometimes you don’t want to set the world on fire. Funny though, with “noire” in the name, I was expecting something darker or more elegant for evening wear.

Bone Rating: 3 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Woody Aromatic
Classification: Masculine
Expense: $105 for 100ml EdT

May 15, 2014
by The Scented Hound 14 Comments

Bergamote Boisee by Au Pays de la Fleur d’Orangers

WHAT I SMELL: Bergamote Boisee opens with a refreshing citrus and cedar which is incredibly similar to the new Hermes Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche which I just reviewed, except that Bergamote Boisee seems likes its edged with a sugary element that makes it feel like its surrounded by shimmering diamonds that are tinged with sunshine. That may be the honey note that I’m experiencing; and if so, it’s like honey that has been hardened and sugared which keeps it lighter rather than what we typically envision honey as thick and syrupy. After around 10 minutes or so, the sugared element makes way for the patchouli which retains a slightly sweetened edge to the woody base. Every time I lift my wrist to smell Bergamote Boisee, I think to myself, “this makes me happy,” and I like that feeling. Bergamote Boisee doesn’t morph or change much, but it’s basically this wonderfully uplifting slightly floral woody scent that is easy and enjoyable to wear!

Notes: Grapefruit, Bergamot, White Flowers, Cistus, Cedar, Oakmoss, Musk, Honey, Patchouli

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: happiness and contentment

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE BERGAMOTE BOISEE: effortless, likable, agreeable

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT BERGAMOTE BOISEE: CaFleureBon

BOTTOM LINE: This is the first sample that I pulled from the Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger’s Collection les Inédits and what a pleasant surprise. I grabbed this sample first as I thought that a fragrance highlighting bergamot would make for a nice summer fragrance. What I wasn’t expecting is that the opening would be so close to Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche. Where the Hermes left me with a slightly soured citrus that was pleasant enough, Bergamote Boisee left me with a sweeter and happier alternative that makes me want to skip down road with a smile on my face. Good job Au Pays de la Fleur d’Orangers!

Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Citrus Aromatic
Nose: Jean-Claude Gigodot
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $125 for 100ml EdP

Sample courtesy of Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary

May 12, 2014
by The Scented Hound 11 Comments

New Release: Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche by Hermes

WHAT I SMELL: Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche opens with a very refreshing citrus and juicy grapefruit which sits atop the unmistakenly Terre d’Hermes cedar like wood. But given a couple of minutes, the cool citrus dominates. It’s refreshing, bright and rather happy. Soon enough the cedar makes a return along with the geranium giving it a bit of spice, but the citrus comes in and out rotating its place on the top with the woody components. Finally, Eau Tres Fraiche maintains this hue of wooded lightly bitter citrus that’s not too sweet, not too dry and is overall just an ease to wear.

Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche notes:

Top notes are orange, citruses and water notes; middle note is geranium; base notes are woody notes, patchouli and cedar.

WHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: Summer camp. It’s fresh, it’s woody and feels like the morning dew with the sun hitting the surrounding lake and woods.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE TERRE d’HERMES EAU TRES FRAICHE: comfortable, easy, fresh

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT TERRE d’HERMES EAU TRES FRAICHE: Sorcery of Scent, Now Smell This, Grain de Musc

BOTTOM LINE: Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche is a nicely done flanker and is perfect for the summer. Terre d’Hermes is one of my all time favorites and this makes for a nice addition to the line.

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Woody Aromatic
Classification: Masculine, but leans unisex
Expense: $115 for 125ml EdT