The Scented Hound

Perfume blog with abbreviated perfume reviews & fragrance reviews.


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Philosykos by Diptyque

philosykosWHAT I SMELL:  Philosykos opens with one second of sparkling ozone followed by this inviting coconut and fig.  It’s green and feels earthy and rooty like vines that are meeting the ground and attaching themselves to the earth below.  There’s a creaminess that helps to create what feels like a lush carpet of wood and green and mildly ripening fruit.  For some reason I was expecting this to be sweet, but it’s far from that.  Instead, the perfume is subdued and pulsates within the heart of the jungle with a comforting earthiness.  After around 15 minutes the fragrance warms with a sugared spiced cedar and a light soapiness adding more comfort and security to an already comforting perfume.  Be forewarned however that a little goes a long way with Philosykos.  If you get heavy-handed with your application, this could be way too overpowering.

From the Diptyque website:

In the heat of a Greek summer, “to get to the sea,” recalls Yves, “you had to walk through a natural orchard of wild fig trees.” Returning from Paris, Desmond brought back a few leaves of these trees in a little box. Years later, the leaves had lost none of their fragrance. Philosykos, which in Greek means “friend of the fig tree,” is an ode to the entire tree: the green, pungent freshness of the leaves, the wood warmed in the sun, the milky flavor of the fruit.

Notes from Fragrantica;

Top notes are fig leaf and fig; middle notes are coconut and green notes; base notes are cedar, woody notes and fig tree.

Red Monkeys and FigWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME: What in my mind, Borneo smells like.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE PHILOSYKOS:  inviting, comforting, creamy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT PHILOSYKOS: Olfactoria’s Travels, The Scentualist, The Smelly Vagabond

BOTTOM LINE: Philosykos is the perfect perfume for those sunny spring and summer days when you don’t want to fuss and muss with your wardrobe or your perfume.  It’s a comfortable, carefree and easy to wear perfume that makes me wish I could walk outside barefoot and lie in a hammock in the backyard.  If only it wasn’t 30 degrees outside!!!                                          

  • Bone Rating: 4 out of 5 possible bones
  • Scent:  Woody Aromatic
  • Nose:  Olivia Giacobetti
  • Classification:  Unisex
  • Expense:  $90 for 50ml EdT from the Diptyque website


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Guerlain Shalimar Souffle de Parfum

Shalimar Souffle de Parfum2I love Shalimar and the intoxicating effect is has on me; it stands out in my collection as a classic and revered masterpiece.  So when I reached down in my big bag of untested samples and saw the sample of Shalimar Souffle de Parfum I immediately thought to myself that I was going to hate it.  I admit, that I was being prejudicial prior to testing this, but the words “souffle” and “Shalimar” together had me very concerned.  Shalimar is delightfully refined and adult…I am wondering if this new flanker was mean to bring the kiddies into the big time…maybe like the perfumed Joe Camel?!

Peeps2

Peeps

WHAT I SMELL:  Tangy lemon and then a buttered orange creme that’s surprisingly rich, lush, gourmand and inviting.  I like the fact that there’s a sweetness about the opening that is rooted in the lemon, but without a high dosage of sugar.  There’s also a wonderful shimmering hue that makes the fragrance sparkle.  After around 10 minutes the jasmine takes center stage, it’s clean and fresh and topped by the citrus.  I have to say that the fragrance thus far feels like a big chemical concoction.  However, in this case, that’s not a bad thing.  After another 5 minutes, Souffle (as I’ll call it from here out) starts to grown in projection.  There’s a creaminess that comes forward combined with vanilla that makes the perfume feel like a cross between an egg custard and a Peep.  The white musk adds a dryer sheet effect to the perfume which again, I feel like the combination of the Peeps, dryer sheets, etc. should make this a wreck.  Well, it’s not.  It’s just a flanker that is targeted to a younger audience and in that case, I would say that it works.  In the end, Souffle is a lemony tart souffle that’s bright and sunny.

From Guerlain:

inspired by a fabulous Indian love story, Jacques Guerlain created the legendary Shalimar perfume in 1925. Now, Thierry Wasser has breathed new life into this legendary perfume, taking it to the heights of sensuality.  A luminous, modern creation with notes of jasmine, vanilla and white musk.

easter-basketWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  An Easter basket.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE SHALIMAR SOUFFLE DE PARFUM:  happy, fresh, fluffy

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT SHALIMAR SOUFFLE DE PARFUM:  Now Smell This, Colognoisseur, The Candy Perfume Boy

BOTTOM LINE:  If you remove yourself from trying to compare this to the original Shalimar you’ll find that this is a nice light treat that’s perfect for a younger audience.  And I have to say that the name fits perfectly…this is a souffle of a perfume!

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Floral
  • Nose:  Thierry Wasser
  • Classification: Feminine
  • Expense:  $100 for 1.7 oz. Eau de Parfum


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Bois 1920 Vetiver Ambrato

bois-1920-vetiver-ambrato-eau-de-parfumWHAT I SMELL:  Vetiver Ambrato opens with bergamot, warmed cloves and spiced geranium; it’s very cozy and rather masculine.  After a couple of minutes, the fragrance becomes almost mentholated as the lavender and vetiver blend into an amber finish with just a slight sour touch of patchouli.  There’s a tobacco that makes its way into the mix and a mild booziness and a bit of finished old world leather.  After 15 minutes, the fragrance lightens and become more powdery as a light vanilla adds just the right amount of sweetness without adding any heaviness.  In the end, the Bois 1920 is a powdered dusting of comfort.

From the Bois 1920 website:

Elegantly and profoundly seductive.

An absolutely masculine perfume that embodies all the power and mystery of modern man.

These suggestions of the fragrant architecture of an eau de toilette make their debut with sparkling, tonic notes towards a warm and spicy middle note to conclude with a virile, provocative top note that surprises again and again.

Top:  Bergamot, Lemon, Petitgrain, Cloves, Geranium, Artemisia
Heart: Patchouly, Lavender, Vetyver, Sandalwood, Cedarwood
Dry down: Tobacco leaves, Musk, Amber, Vanilla, Benzoin, Labdanum, Galbanum

stuffed leather chairWHAT IT SMELLS LIKE TO ME:  Your grandfathers favorite chair at the cabin at the lake; it’s worn and comfy and smells of pipe, wood and lots of wonderful living.

THREE ADJECTIVES THAT DESCRIBE VETIVER AMBRATO:  comfy, easy-going, secure

WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING ABOUT VETIVER AMBRATO:  NotableScents, ChickenFreak’s Obsession

BOTTOM LINE:  This is a vetiver scent that’s not all about vetiver and it’s an amber scent that’s not all about amber.  What you get is a nice combination of muted qualities from both.  So if you don’t like truly green vetiver fragrances or heavy and brown amber scents, this might be just the right fragrance for you!

  • Bone Rating: 3.5 out of possible 5 bones
  • Scent: Oriental Woody
  • Nose:  Enzo Galardi
  • Classification: Unisex, but leans masculine
  • Expense:  Varies greatly per store or site.  Eau de Toilette.