Serge Lutens | The Scented Hound

When I woke up this morning, it was raining and humid and I was feeling a bit ornery. I pulled out my untested samples and thought that Muscs Koublai Khan would be the right scent to match my mood as I wasn’t set for something light and airy. Of course, being one of those days I managed to spill most of the fragrance from the vial, but managed beforehand to dab myself with this interesting fragrance.

Muscs Koublai Khan went on quite sweet. The sweetness was surrounded by rubbery musk. I found it sexy and heavy. But after a time that heaviness leveled out and it turned into a familiar scent. I have been wracking my brain all day to figure out what scent it reminded me of. To this point I can’t answer that, but I do know that it goes way back. It reminds me of some powerhouse scent from the 80s. As the drydown continued, I also noticed that it has a bit of a barber shop smell to it, something similar to Brylcreem. In other words, it has a bit of a musky chemical smell.

I’m waffling on this fragrance, I have read comments where it has been compared to Frederic Malle’s Musc Ravageur, but Muscs Koublai Khan is much more subdued and doesn’t have ooomph, that Musc Ravageur hits you with. That’s not a bad thing, but it doesn’t make it quite as exciting for me. Maybe it’s just my mood… being ornery and writing a review doesn’t fair well for any fragrance!

Muscs Koublai Khan Notes:

Vegetal Musk, Roots of Costus, Labdanum Rockrose, Grey Amber, Vanilla, Patchouli, Ambrette Seeds, pure Moroccan Rose

Bone Rating: 3.5 out of 5 possible bones
Scent: Chypre – Musk
Classification: Unisex
Expense: $140 for 50ml EDP

All perfumistas have gone through the process of making a purchase smell unseen. For the most part when I have done this I come away with a great product. A couple of months ago, I blindly purchased Ambre Sultan based on reviews that I read and I am thrilled to say that I love this fragrance. And as an added bonus, I always receive compliments whenever I have this on. This is not a fragrance for the timid and shy. Strong and almost medicinal when first applied, it warms to a nice dry, spicy and woody enveloping scent. This is amber without the sweetness. Amber Sultan is perfect for a winter’s day…I can only imagine how it will wear in the heat of the summer! You can definitely understand the “sultan” in Ambre Sultan thanks to the exotic incense spiciness of this most perfect fragrance. Where’s my magic carpet?

Ambre Sultan Notes:

coriander, amber, oregano, bay leaf, myrtle, angelica root, sandalwood, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla